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partner didn't overcall 1s you did, remember the right hand should be on the left. The hands are correct: the lower hand is ALWAYS south, the other hand here is LHO. RHO opened 1♦, I bid 1♠,... Weird that people are still confused, but I have to admit it took me long as well to see the hands right ;) The table is just above the lowest hand, that's easiest to remember imo. lol free, you always say exactly what i do, but think im wrong.

Why am i wrong ? did i suggest not playing the line you suggested ?actually if you read my first post here you will see that i was refering to the same exact play as you suggested. I dont know which line is the best, what is better 3-3 club or a combination of 4-4 heart + if 5-3 then the 5 is with the 2 diamond ? I only said that if someone look at this problem and say, i dont see the problem, you make it because clubs are 3-3 then he isnt being honest with himself and he is influenced by seeing the hands and he should work on it.

not only you are wrong but also you are influenced by seeing the full hand which is something you should work on, giving up the diamond suit is wrong and im more then guessing you would not do that without seeing the hand (and you would be right). playing diamonds works whever hearts are 4-4 or hearts are 5-3 and the one with the long heart has only 2 diamonds, this is better then 3-3 club break.

partner didn't overcall 1s you did, remember the right hand should be on the left.

You dont have to choose , you can try both, play the diamond first. if you dont lose 4 diamonds then you still have time to check the clubs, so you problem is how to play the diamond iffectively but minimizing the risk of losing 4 of them.

actually bridgeboy's line which i must confest looked redicules to me at the begining is better then mine, only you shouldnt ruff a diamond in hand, you can get in with club to the A or with spade to the A.

A♦ J♠ case A: east got the K and covers (doesnt matter if he doesnt cover) take A of spade heart to the K ruff diamond small spade ruff in hard (you are not playing the Q first) ruff another diamond at the table. play A of club play Q of spade and drop the diamond and you have 11 tricks no matter what. case B: west taking the K of spade you need a 2 2 club break, if west continue anything but D, you can play trump before you ruff the diamond and before you draw the spades which is good, if he continue diamond, you have to ruff it now you must play the spades before you can draw all trump (you can take out only the A of club) which mean you will lose if spades are 2-5.

Actually as the bidding went, if its not a forcing pass situation then 5sp is not that bad.

I dont think transfer matter here, sure i dont know how the bidding went at your table, but you dont need transfer to get this one right. Taxas transfers are very simple bid 4d with 6+hearts or 4h with 6+S after openers 1nt. partner dont have a choice but accepting the transfer. There are also the jacoby transfers which are similar but at the 2 level meaning 2d and 2h are transfers to H and S, those can be made with only 5 card either as a sign off bid, or as a way to invastigate for game or choosing the right game or for slam bidding. also partner can bid something else then 2 of the major , this is call super accpetions which is usually done with a good hand (max) and 4 card support. If you need a full descrition i can give it to you.

Im not sure i understand what you're asking, i see that you bid 4sp over 4h so you did understand it is transfer, do you ask if 4h should be a transfer here, or maybe you ask if the name stays the same after interference ? or maybe you ask if this situation is forcing pass. so ill answer all of the above. 1. i think this bid should be transfer. 2. who cares about names, you can call it bubu. 3. when partner bid game over your 1nt i would take that as a forcing pass creating bid unless agreed otherwise. about the actual bid, your partner's 4h is not best discribing his hand, but if you cant find a better bid the its ok. your 4sp already showed spade fit and you already showed maybe more offense power then you have, therefore you have no resson to think about bidding more, no matter if this forcing pass or not, you are happy with doubling them.

The rule of the two level is just a rule that made by some people to get better partnership, its not that playing weak two as 8-11 or 7-9 or 7-12 or 3-10 or 3-8 would be any less effective, its just a matter of partnership understadning, the same is true about the 3 level you need some guidlines. the rule you know is what your teacher or mentor or people around you play for the 2 level, this doesnt mean that the next person you would meet over BBO will play the same way.

You dont have to bid two suiter with this. What you need to do is plan a head, if you plan was to bid 4h, and later if they bid 4sp continue to 5d which will show two suiter with supirior heart (becauser you didnt use a direct two suiter) then we are thinking alike. I would continue with the plan and bid 5d now.

Im not familier with this but I'm pretty sure a pass cant be only use for a trap pass, the all idea of a trap pass is the ability to show two type of hands with this pass, the trap which will pass partner next bid, and another one which will do something else.

1C is 15+ without 5 card major. I consider adding the 12-14 balance and 12-14 club suit. my question is only from the point of view of oppnents interference, which system will suffer more the one with the added 12-14 part or the one without ? im not sure, the one without the extra part will be much better handeling the interference since i already know i got 15+ hcp, on the other hand the one with the 12-14 opponents will probebly interfear less.

OK Thanks everyone, it was an intresting thread. I think i made my decision, its going to be a mix of two cool systems of world class players, the bulgarian kalin-rumen and the italian bocchi-duboin. Now i "only" have to guess the systems out of their convention cards. Anyway i think its going to be fun, and hopefully my new partner will be happy with it too. btw if anyone who have access to any part of those systems (or to the nightmare system) beside the ccs on ecat, i will be very happy to get it.

Good point Tod. I think even for computer there is alot of payoff for this prefect system and therefore i dont think will see anything like that soon, but the point that it exist is true. I actually ment this post to be practicle, i am going for a new partnership and was considering either a polish club version that open 1M when it has it (like strefa or the system described by misho which i really like but will be harder to get a good full implementationmany) or a major system like midmac or maf or one of my own systems which are more majorish then those two. I took out of the picture 2/1 because i dont like their 1c/1d duplication, and also precision because i dont like opening 1c with a 5 card major, atleast not that often.

Not sure that 2nt isnt natural here.

This kind of double doesnt show a very long spade suit, it shows a hand which opposite what partner has shown so far wish to penalty the opponents rather then overbid them, this is usually mean not too great fit, some cards in opponents suit, semi balance hand, soft hcp in other then partner's suits. the higher the level is the less diffensive you can be for this double, on 4sp your hand can be more offensive then on 3sp, but less ofensive then what you can have for 5sp double. partner should leave the double unless he has more shape then he showed (one card more is usually not enough) or have other resson to prefer to play, like when he is strong and we are vul vs not vul.

Thxs

Hi chiel good to hear about a system from you just like its good to see zar here when his system is discussed. For a while im working on systems mainly major related maybe you can help me by answering few questions. a. do you have expirence playing maf ? b. how was it , did you get good results ? c. you 1c/1d are something in between a natural bid and a major description, how does it work in competitve, do you think its better then 1c=4C major 1d=no 4 card major ? I liked reading your site, but i got to tell you it sometime not too clear, maybe overloaded. Have a good trip to spain. hf

3d seem like a good idea and with north hand it really help. From north point of view now, he can see that small slam will have good chances, about grand slam he need partners hcp to be in the rights plances, meaning no wasted in heart, if you have a way to check that its good but if not then go for the 6d because partner rates to have wasted honors in hearts, 6m when it makes is usually a good contract (especialy in not too good tournaments) anyway norse should bid 4c now.

What was the 3c bid ?

I dont agree with you, like i said at my first post, simplicity is a factor in how good a system is, if a system is harder to play it is less effective.

I play MIDMAC with gijsh, just like you said, in this system 1c always have 4M and 1d alway doesnt.

I was waiting for misho's and luis's responses because i wanted to see what you will say about systems which are related to you, this was NTC and the new kind of PC with misho and german moscito with luis. I also wish to see the hog response to know if he really believe strefa is the best. Yes i know you cant have an exact definition for the best system, but for me its really importent, for example i cant play syac or 2/1 because i believe they are inferior to other systems, i am gelous of people that can play for fun, i never could have done that on any game i played, my fun is to find the best system, just like i was sitting hours with the chess encyclopedies, or looking for the best strategies in age of empires game.