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This is like MIDMAC, Maf or the french system WEB. Midmac 2c/2d are natural 6 cards suits. 1nt is the strong bid 20+ Also the system is based on a evaluation system which is abit more agressive then your style. take alook at the short version in Gijs page (you can buy the detailed version for 12$) I played it with Gijs ,it was fun and we had good results.

4 clubs is splinter with heart support. I'll try to explain, first jumps which arent natural are usually used for splinter not cue bids (i think in the past ppl used other ways like asking bids) So after we know its a short suit, there is the question of wather its with heart support or with a long spade suit meaning autosplinter, the answer is very simple, 95% of the time a splinter is with support to partner and not a seft splinter, the 5% looks might diffeent then this sequence,something like 1H -2H 4C or maybe 2c-2d 2h-2nt 4c anyway if your not sure , its not a autosplinter.

Looks nice. The 2d 18-19 bal is played by many italians ,boochi dubin switch between the 2c and 2d (2d is GF, 2c is 18-19 bal) so i guess its alright. The special part is your light opening, its just normal that your 2/1 will need more hcp. Your adv is opening light which might be good in competetive. Your disadv is that your 1 level opening are witdh and handling it wont be easy, especially the 1nt forcing which is 6-13, but maybe its possible. It might be a good idea to try and unload some of those hands which bids 1nt in your system. The are some ways i know to do this are : 1: 2/1 are GF except rebid.(or maybe its just better to play only 1RF when openings are so light) 2: add the invite 3 card supprt into your bergen's bid (ex. bid 3c with either 6-9 4 card supprt or 10-11 3 cards support) 3: Ben posted his 2c over 1M which is kind of a weak relay, i think some play 2d as all invitationals realy.

Pclayton's anwer is what your looking for, ill just add that with hands too good for 2sp, you can bid 2h.

Well not everyone want to discuss hands, some just want to play and not talk, some play bridge for 40 years and think their learning years are past long time ago, you need to feel the situation, see if partner welcome comments and making his own, if not just let him play, also you might want to find those who share your style of discussing and learning, add them to your friend list and try to play more with them. A fix partnership is much better suited for discussions. I dont know what are your bridge skills or your picked up partner's skills but I wouldnt reccomend learning anything from these discussions, or put a big question mark on it untill you ask an expert, because most of the times you will learn wrong thing influenced by not witdh enough logic (not taking enough things into considerations) and worst your analyzing will be based on a specific hand which you have just played, or alteat you will give this specific hand a big place in your logic, while it might just be that the right bid or play is wrong for this hand but right for most other hands. My advices to you, get into the partner seeking forum and find a good partner who want to improve. ask questions especially in the begginer's and intermidiate forum (this forum is best for getting answers even to hard question) read the right books good luck

It will not work this way since you have another card left, you can take the diamond finnese and then your squeeze will work. Their might be another squeese avaliable, ill think about it later.

The main problem is that if you are not an expert you will many times be trying to teach him something wrong, i can tell you more then 50% of the times i see ppl lecture they teach mistakes. To your specific lecture it might also be a mistake ,i wont get into it here, if you want show us the all thing and ill tell you, its far from clear that a support after aNgetive D need extra, yes it has your logic or a general logic, but that is just the main problem , ppl see a logic and lectue, but they still mistake. For example that will be 100% clear, picture two of your opponents, one opening 1sp with 13 cards in this suit, later his partner lecture to him that with 10 hcp you dont open, you need 12, he keep explaining the system, with lots of logic, and you sit their laughing inside yourself. This actually happends alot more then you can think. So my point dont lecture something that come from your logic, lecture something that come from your teacher or your book (which can also be wrong but the chances of being right are better)

At imps 7 spade, at mp the A. if north show a long club suit the A of spade since this 3c invite and accpete increase the of them having 9 tricks and us having 5 which needed to be taken before then get the hand.

If your partner bids 2♦ and you correct to 2M, you will never end up in game unless you cooperate further. The reason is if all your partner can do is bid 2♦, and then you bid 2M, he can't have enough to bid game... cause if he did, he would have bid something more than 2♦. The best partner can do is invite you to participate, and only with a super duper hand. Ben Great so that prove my point, if we are going to play in a partscore, then what are the chances that 2d is the best place to be ? imo very high. Maybe the point behind the "dont pass with 4 diamonds and 4 hearts" is that partner with a very good hand can miss a game, but if we know game isnt possible , why not pass 2d ?

Merry xmas

Initial pass is fine but i prefer to open , imo this is good enough. I dont understnd those two answers, direct 1nt and direct 2nt, what is this, we didnt find an ace or something. after the 1nt if partner is aware of the rule or 15 ill bid 3nt, iif he doesnt or he is normaly an overbidder or he is a begginer id bid 2nt.

Is it really wise to play the 2h as a relay and no preference ? Isnt it better to use 2s as a relay ?

I would understand a ♠ bid here as showing ♠ stopped. Youre saying my partner must have points for the double, (some in ♠) so a ♠ bid here is only showing ♠xxxx. 2♦ Dbl RDbl Pass Pass 2♥ [hv=d=w&v=n&s=s9532hakdq87ca763]133|100|Scoring: IMP[/hv] First its importent that you will understand the bidding in general and not with the effect of looking at your hands, as i explained before, when we get rouble our goal is to servive, to land in a fit or sub fit , some 4-3 as low as we can and hopfully without being doubled. the process is bidding slowly not bypassing a potential 4-3 fit. So lets say the bidding went (1D)-D-(RD) ? (just the same as after 2D opening,but more common) now what are 1h/1s/2c ? and what is pass ? lets begin with the pass, this isnt like (1d) D (P) p which shows long diamond suit. A pass after a rdbl is only saying, i got nothing special to show you, i think its better that you bid first. pass as being a hand which want to hear partner, usually doesnt have a one good suit but rather support for 3 suits or atleast 2 suits. When is this pass not a right ? when we will have a problem with partner action after the double, in this case we rather bid a suit. Now examples (1D) - D- ®- ? 1. we have 4-3 or 3-4 or even 5-4 or 4-5 we will pass let partner bid his suit, we are in no rush and anything he bids suits us (aslong as partner also awre of the slowly up the line strategy) 2. what if we have 5 hearts and 2-3 spades, if we pass partner will many times bid spades (for example when he got 4 spades and 3 hearts) and we lost our 5-3 heart fit for a 4-3 or 4-2 fit, as this is not what we want, we will bid 1H with this hand. 3. now we have 4 hearts and 2 spades, again if we pass parter with 4 spades and 3 heart will bid spades and we lost 4-3 heart to 4-2 spade, so with 4-2 we will usually bid 1h rather then pass. in some cases we might still decide to pass this 4-2, maybe with small 4 and good 2, but we will know what the risks are. 4. we have 4 spades and 2 hearts. if we pass partner with 4 hearts and 3 spades will bid 1h, we will correct this to 1s, and no harm done, so with this shape we will not consider bidding 1s as we did in example 2. 5. 5 spades and 2 hearts, you might think we should pass, and if partner bid H, we correct this to spade, but this strategy is wrong, lets again imagine partner with 4 hearts and 3 spades, we should just bid spade ourself, now whats wrong with the passing and correcting ? the wrong is that this bid will usually show what we had in example 4: 4 spades and 2 hearts, this mean we have 7 cards left in the minors, partner might prefer to land there instead of spade, but since we have 5 spades and less minors we better just bid 2sp ourselfs. 6. 5 spades and 3 hearts- now this is a dilema, if we are sure partner's double show atleast 3 in each major, i would easly bid spade, but with weak spades, and not sure about 3 spades in partner hands, pass is an option, its has the benifit of trying to escape undoubled, we first try 2h, if this get double, we try the spade, still with 5 spades its usually pay to bid it directly. 7. we have a club suit - same principle, bidding it directly mean we are certain that this is the right contract, this mean the clubs are really good, and the majors are raltively bad. Hope this clears things up abit. Again this specific situation was a bit different since you were strong but being strong doesnt mean you have to play, if you dont have a fit let them play it double. (read choen's book to bid or not to bid, and you will understand this much better)

Ouch this is so ...what? Is triable a synonym for stupid? Or do you mean tribal? :P I passed 2♥X thinking we would make it and not knowing what else to bid - (thats why I post these questions in the B/I forum) I rarely encounter a re-X :) jillybean Some bridge actions just makes me want to cry, this is because of my bridge history mostly with one partner which i love (my mother) but sometime killed me at the table, when i read this action i remembered actions on which i was at the table and just wanted to cry because i couldnt understand how can she do this to me. A tip when someone give you a penalty double at the 2 level, and for some resson god loves you and send an angle to save you , dont bid the same suit at the 3 level, especially not when you know or almost know you are in a 4-2 trump fit. (in general dont compete 3 level over 3 level without a 9 card fit)

I also dotn see the problem, yes we had a bit different approach to the second trick but that just a matter of agrement, i play the second as simply showing suit preference so when i play the 2 on the second round its ovious i wan club, i dont need to play an excpetional card like the 7.

Thanks, ill look into it, I agree about the range, i might narrow it o something like 8-12 or 9-13, or arange depend on vul.

Yes i agree, you wont get 100% power even in uncontested, but you get close to that. In contested you are in a problem, but you have the little advantage that the opponents are in abit of dark. About the 2 bids, the initial idea was to use it to show 5-4 in a known order, but i thought if the range is not to big, playing it either way can work, this is because in a two level partscore it doesnt matter to much if you know which is the 4 and which is the 5, with 3-3 you will bid 2h and in the worth case play 4-3 major when you have 3-5 minor, at the 3 level or higher you will know which suit as the five level, since after the relay partner will tell you , something like: 2c-2d-2h= 5 card heart, any other = 4 cards heart. 2d-2s-2nt= 5 card heart, any other 4 card hearts. I dont like the idea of the suit with either major, because partner has a big problem eveluating his hand, say he got 5 card major, if i got a 4 game is possible, if i dont, 3 level might be too high, this is one good point in what richard said, those freling 2 bids are better when game is rare.

Free your suggests are very welcome, i said i didnt understand you and im sorry i still dont. What i do understand is that because of the limit set by fibo you "know" you cant show all the bids accuretly with only 1nt so you wanted another bid, but as far as i could see you or anyone else for that matter didnt give me any example of a problem with such 1NT,except the one i agree with, it wont be as good competitively. I feel abit like someone who find something great but ppl telling him its not possible without looking at it, just because something previously told them its too good, so i explained why this is not in contradiction to that fibo rule but it didnt help.

And now ill explain to you what we are doing after a redouble. a redouble mean "partner lets double them and kick their butts" after getting redouble we know we are in a bad situation and our goal is to servive. So we are looking for a fit, doesnt have to be a great fit, doesnt even have to be the best fit we have, but we just dont want to go higher then necassary so we go slow, from buttom to top making sure we wont pass a suit which we can play. Now to the point : 2D D redouble ? all bids are natural, but why bid and not pass ? if i have xxxx in spade and xx in heart i can pass, partner will bid heart but i can still bid spade, showing i got the other suits. (this is imo what you should have done here, but why 3H why why :() Now what if you had xx in spade and xxxx in heart ? this is completetly different, if you pass, partner will bid 2sp and now we might miss a 4-3 heart fit (rarly a 4-4) So with short heart and even 4 spade you can bid 2sp. it should be atleast 2 card different between the suits, with 4-3 you just pass.

Ouch this is so triable it hurts. You were 50% dead and for some weird resson your opponents decided to help you and bid 3D, why on earth did you bid 3H when 2H was a disaster ? When you have such a beutiful double on 3D.

Its funny you call these bids a waste , as my intentions were just the opposite, the all phylosoffy here is not to waste bids on premptives and distructive, and use it for us, for something that will help to take the presure off the 1 level bids. But its just our different style, for you bridge is first to make your opponents not find thier bids, for me the first thing is to make my side find the bids. Your guessing 2c/2h suggested is just a good example. So in your eyes losing the premptives is a waste, for me using those for more contructive is exactly the opposite, its taking a bid out of the garbage and use it for good perpose. yet i do it with pretty weak hands which will have a distructive effect as well.

Playing for AK of spade onside is playing the overcall was was very light if its based on diamond, and when u play 1 club round you know it wasnt on diamonds so what are we playing the overcall to have 0-2 hcp ? The ebst play is to run the clubs and hope for good, and good will come maybe more then you expect it, defence is the hardest part of the game and your opponents will make mistakes.

You mean why waste only one bid when you can waste two ? I really dont understand you.

About the range, i said the range will be somewhere between 8 and 16, it doesnt have to be strong, and im thinking 8-13, it can even be 8-12. I dont like Todds idea because this system as you might have seen tries to use the 2 level to help the other bids rather then as a premptive, so i want it to be constructive and really dont like distructives only ideas. This system use 1nt-2s to show all weak unbalanced hands, leaving the other bids to show the other hands. Oviusly it doesnt show all the hands but it show alot more then any other system i know (i mean alot more contructively) I read pirenna club last night, its a cool system but they left with 1c and 1d to show almost the same number of hands as we left to show with the exptra spear 1H.

I didnt want to get into this but i'll explain what i called "nature of the hands". The idea is simple, the 1nt showing 1 suiters limit bid is good because the relay bid 2c, is passable, if we look at openers bids after 1nt-2c Pass= show clubs 2d/2h/2s=show the suit bid What happend here is we won another bid, the pass, so basically this 1nt 2c can show the same as 1sp-1nt where the 2c is replaced by the pass. The idea is not new, there are uses in current systems, like the multi i mentioned before or the lebelzol kind of bids,keri's or 2 way stayman 2c, and maybe also Ben's 2c-2M which are passable.