DWM

[hv=d=w&v=n&s=s542hqxxdjt9caxxx]133|100|Scoring: MP[/hv] Bidding (1♥) - 1♠ - (2♥) Is this close between a 2♠ and pass or should it be automatic.

Fav Vun, Imps 1) (2♠) - P - (P) - X (P) What would you bid with KJ QTxxxx QJxx Q 2) If you would not bid 4♥ with the above hand how would you need to improve it to make it a 4♥ bid. 3) After (2♠) - P - (P) - X (P) - (4♥) - (P) Would/what you bid on with Axx AJxx Axxx AK At the table I pressed on but the 2♠ bidder had Kx♦, Kx♥ and not the Q♠ so I went down.

We are currently playing a 10-12 NT and strong club, 5 card majors, 3 weak twos. After talking we feel that mini NT in 3rd seat is not the best and not too sure about the best range for 4th seat. Our opening style is quite agressive so there are very few, if any, 11 point hands that we will pass in first or second seat. At the moment the simplest suggestion we have for NT in third or 4th seat is 12-14 or 13-15, but toying with the idea of 4-4 minors or better in 3rd seat. The 2D 11+ enquiry is a waster bid after a 2C opening (6+ ♣ or 5/4 ♣/M. Not too sure about the best option for this, unless its bid your major P I have bad clubs. Any recommendations for a different treatment for the bids mentioned above. If something fancy is recommended for the 1NT bid will the 1D bid have a more specfic meaning. If possible could recommendations be suitable for level 4 in the UK.

I know that there are often more than one correct treatment. Reading Klinger and Lawrence has taught me that. One example Lawrence gives is should 1D-(P)-1NT be F1R or not. Here Lawrence explains both points of view and recommends one. This allows the reader to form their own opinion and use what fits best into their system. Other problems do have less about the bidding and more about the interpretation of the one hand. An example of this is the current poll that asks what to do after p-p-4S. However, within this topic some of the explanations regarding how to use a 4NT bid and double help. The reasoning as to why some people would bid on or not helps to form views on what sort of features support what choice. What I see as dangerous is reading WTP, 6H Obv etc on their own and trying to form my own reasoning as to why they are correct.

When two people whose posts I tend to take more note of post opposing views it is so hard to judge the correct view when one says 4H obvious and the other says something along the lines of double to show your values, your hands defensive values should be shown.... Also putting a bit more of an explanation helps to use personal judgement to see if a treatment is suitable for a specific system.

I am wondering what other people hope to gain by contributing to or reading the forums. I understand that there are a wide range of abilities and opinions on the forums. When I read most topics that ask bidding questions there are quite a few replies along the lines of obv double 4H is clear etc I know some people are just quickly adding the basic information, but does anybody find this a bit frustrating when there is lots of such information on one post, especially when there are a split of opinion with a balance of the two above or similar. I certainly find it better when there is even one line of explanation about the preferred bid. I think this both allows better discussion over the problem and allow those who are reading this forum to learn to see the reasoning behind the thoughts of those who are more experienced.

Playing negative doubles to 4♦, can we assume that we are playing optional doubles of 4 ♥/♠. In that case a double is clear (or at least it is in my all too often non correct eyes) If double is penalty I dont like it as either partner typically has 2-4 badly placed spades or they have a 11 card fit. Although we can expect two tricks from our hand if we can expect more than two quick tricks in diamonds from P then we should really be looking more at slam rather than the 800. From this I would probably bid 5♥ as the hand is better than partner expects. Although its the shape they will expect and not too far off the point count it has very well placed offensive cards. Not too sure if I am correct or not here, but I hope my reasoning would at least save me from too much grief in the PM.

(1♣)-1♠-2♦*-2♥-2♠ In the example above 1♣ bidder can bid 3♣ in the second or third round of bidding, without knowing a treatment i assume it can either show and AK or QJ hand or show/deny values in hearts. I can see that in an uncontested auction the bidding may be kept a level lower, but still would like to see a more in depth explanation of continuations. I am also trying to see how transfers work in competative auctioins against opositions who know how to defend against them.

I have seen transfers suggested for a number of situations, mostly in the first round or two of bidding. I can see the advantages about playing transfers to let the strong hand play it, however I am not too clear on the advantages about playing them in other situations. Is there any good guidance on these transfers and how to make the most of them. I am trying to work out if they are worth the memory cost, thinking they could be as they will come up often. As transfers give oposition two chances to bid is this much of a negative when you come up against people who know how to bid against such transfers.

Sorry if you took offence, I merery mentioned an ongoing joke that I have seen quoted in several high quality bridge books. Although I have discussed bridge in the locker room I cannot remember if we have discussed the ability of females to play in NT.

Its a clear cut 4NT if P is a girl got to get the NT bid in before the rules are forgotten. Should also say if one of the diamond X's is the 7, its all important.

Sorry, Opener is silenced by the garbage stayman option 1NT - (P) - 2♣ - (2♠) P - (P) - ???

We are looking at how to bid after interference to stayman. We play promisory stayman and could be garbage. We would like to keep double as penalty if at all possible. to get a simple treatment I have got this far. pass = below invitiational values X = 2 stops in ops suit and inv + points 2NT = 1 stop in ops suit and inv points 2 level bids are invites 3 level bids are GF this seems to be ok except when the interference is 2S. Any suggestions on this or a different simple treatment?

My thoughts were on looking for a penalty, but looks like its better to take the should be safe conttract. Also any thoughts on going for 4♠ rather than 3♠. This was my other idea as we have a 9 card fit, and we should have at least an 8 card club fit, opos have upto 4 spades, 8+ hearts, 6+ diamonds so no more than 5 clubs or we have a 10+ spade fit.

[hv=d=s&v=e&s=sq72haj96da4ckt92]133|100|Scoring: IMP[/hv] Bidding 1♣ - (1♥) - 1♠ -(P) 1NT - (2♥) - 2♠ - (3♦) both sides playing a fairly basic 5 card major strong NT system. what sort of hand could RHO have whislt sticking to a basic system? As south what do you do now?

[hv=d=w&v=n&n=skj7hkj642dt32c63&s=shat7dakj987ckq75]133|200|Scoring: IMP[/hv] Playing a strong club the bidding starts (P) - P - (P) - 1♣ (P) - 1♥ - (1♠) - X/2♦/2♥ (2♠) We have just introduced a strong club into our system so nowhere near having a tried and tested system. At the moment our bidding is along the same line as 2/1 after a positive reply to a strong club. I assume 2♥ is the most common second bid by the strong hand, is there any merit is doubling or showing diamonds? From there how should the bidding continue? Would you end up in a slam or not?

I went for 3NT. Partner should have two tricks outside clubs and over 50% chance of getting 7 club tricks. If 3NT is on there is a good chance that oposition will have a cheap sac so dont want them to have time to find it. With 6 losers outside clubs there are not that many hands that P can cover 4 losers outside clubs and 3NT not being on.

With six top tricks we need 3 more. Option 1, 3 spades, 2 hearts, 2 diamonds and 2 clubs. Option 2, 1 spade, 2 hearts, 1 diamond, 4 clubs + one more spade or diamond. With 5♥ being 4th best we know there are 2 heart losers so can afford to lose two more tricks. East is the dangerous person to be on lead for diamonds and spades. Option 1 needs the K of ♠+♦ in east nearly 25% Option 2 needs a 3-3 split in clubs, however, clearing hearts first will help chances. I would play two rounds of hearts then play a club from north and cover easts card. Once West is on lead he can take his two hearts then any lead will help out as a spade or a diamond lead will take away the guess for one of the kings making option 1 closer to 50-50, if a spades is lead I can test clubs before playing on diamonds. If a club is returned I should make 4 clubs.

Winners off the top 2 spades 2 hearts 1 club Need to find 5 more tricks From the bidding West is more likely to have a high card than East Options for additional tricks. QJ of diamonds, either fin or ruffing fin. extra some in spades ruff 2 hearts, hope for a 3-4 break and play the 5th Dangers 3 losers in clubs, 4-1 (5-0) split in spades with Q in long suit If hearts are played on first S needs to drop 2 clubs to give 3 losers If going for diamonds first N only needs to drop 1 club to give 3 losers Probably best to play AK of spades first then cross to AD and play the QJ ruffing if the K is played, otherwise drop a club. To cross back play a second heart first then ruff one. This relies on spades 3-2, hearts 4-3 and diamond K in west. Winners 2 top spades, 3 ruffs (2 hearts and one diamond), 2 top hearts, 5th heart, 2 diamonds.

To get beyond a certain level I dont think the question is what makes a good bridge player it should be what makes a good partnership. To start with card play and basic system knowledge is probably top priority, but beyond a certian level I think its more important to have a great understanding with your partner than have the ability to identify the more complex squeezes etc.

Isn't there a lot more to overcalling a 4 card major than just finding a fit with P. Doesn't it also have the advantage of squeezing the bidding space, making it more difficult for oposition to find NT part scores/games, helping P find a good lead etc. Certainly at the one level I am not convinced that finding a fit is a top priority.

Looks like I better let my partner know so I don't get too many strange looks. With regards to the hand quality I take it there is a reasonable difference between the minimum hands for p - (1♣) - 1♠ and (1♣) - 1♠ The things I have looked for to make such a bid is Overcalling strength AJTx/KQxx or better in the suit hand not suitable for take out double I have also used 1♠ as a mini preempt oposite a passed hand and this seems to work quite well as often partner will support me to the two level and give oposition the difficult 3 level choices. That being said once I play against more regular pairings who use things like lebenshol the advantage is not as much, but still fun getting in the way.

One of the books I have been reading, think it was competitive bidding in the 21st century, recommends overcalling with 4 card majors in certain situations. I have been trying this on BBO and got some good results, however, I am not too sure if its because of my bidding or the opponents skill level. Other results and bidding sequences suggest that I should label myself as world class compared to some so called experts, but that is a different subject. Just wonder what are other peoples thoughts about overcalling with a 4 card major in certain situations and if anybody has tried it did it give an advantage against reasonable or above opposition .

It was a random P. Probaly a bit of mistake in the question, I forgot about taking a spade first. Was not sure if it would be better to try and push the club suit and hope for a club fin or open up the diamonds.

[hv=d=e&v=e&s=saqt5h8dk95c97532]133|100|Scoring: IMP[/hv] Bidding (1♣) - 1♠ - (2♥) - 2♠ (3♥) -P - (4♥) first trick 2♠ -4-A-3 What do you play trick 2? Dummy is J94 KT76 J73 AQJ