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Another thought i had If i use 2m to show 4+4 or (5/4) H and m, 2H= 6H,2S=11-14 5-4 minors I could make the 1D and 1H forcing bids like F-N system. But this is another totally diferent system.

This post contain some major mistakes claiming to have a thory that i now know was wrong, i explained more in respond on this thread, sorry. This is based on this article by david_c david's article Opening structure: 1S - 4+♠ 11-15 (could be canape) 1H - 12-18 (this one still open see thoughts at the end 1NT -12 14 1D - 12-GF- 4+ ♦ unbalanced 1C - 15+ bal or clubs ,19+ with hearts or 16+ with spades or GF with diamonds 2 level see at the end david_c claimed that these different ranges for types of hands in the 1C openeing will cause problems constructing a system that works over 1C. I think this works pretty naturaly. 1C-1D width range of weak (not transfers like in milnium) 1H - 18 bal or 19+ any hand 1S=16-19 with 5♠ 1NT=15-17 bal 2C - 15-18 5+ clubs 2D - any GF like in polish continuations over 1H relay are known from many system. The seonnd intersting point of this structure is the 4CM 1♠ opening. i wont get into it now, but i its based on my thory that 1. Spades are less important to distinguege between 4 and 5 cards. 2. Its good to open 1S often. I also consider killing the precision 2C sending the good 6 cards to open 3C, and the bad 6 cards to open 1nt. This leaves me with hearts and clubs. This could leave the 2 level for my heart toy, which is another part of that thory to open weak unbalance hearts hands at the 2 level. I plan to use 2C/2D to show hearts and minor around 8-12 hcp,what i didnt decide is the shape whater it should be 5/4 either way or 4+4+ or always 5m-4H or always 5H-4m. Any thoughts are welcome.

end play is advace play while knowing how to split (not when to split) is begining skill just like a beginer partner should know if they lead 4th best of 5 best. I think these easy stuff should come before the other partnership agrement and conventions.

Well done Was hoping you will take the gold but still happy you gave a good fight.

Imo reverse count are way better. Its simple you want to give count without throwing an important card, and the chance of this happend are much better when you play udca, since when you only have a problem with 3 cards when 2 of them are important, while playing normal you have a problem any time you have 2 cards with one of them important. Clearly the chances of IIx (I=important) are not as high as Ix. In practice i feel ita alot easier for me, no need to think all the time, "can i throw this 9 of 9x..." almost all the time u have an easy card to throw low from doublton and second low from triplton. also the count in trump is the same as on other suit which is good too.

its a honor for me to think like great players B)

Dont know but this thread is great, very important for most players to know which books to read.

This is a very interesting system, would be happy to discuss any special sequence in it (and there are many) Lets begin with a simple question, how do you respond to 1C holding one suiter diamond hand with (6)7-8(10) hcp ? Anyone who have some notes about it better then thier the one on ecat, ill be very happy to recieve a copy.

I play the same too, thats why i was surprise to see kanter suggest otherwise.

Lets say you play chamco precision with 1D show 11-15 with 4+ diamond unblance hand. Now if the name precision isnt holy for you, isnt it better to widther the range of this 1D ? Lets say 1D is 11-19. I think the price is very minimal when you open 1D. On the other side the gain is much bigger, when you hold those 16-19 unbalance with 4+ diamond you are much better placed opening 1D then 1C. Another gain is that it takes the 16-19 diamond hands out of your 1C, this might really help, for example if you play kind of precision that use a rleay 1H to show all 20+ hands, you can just just the 2D rebid for something else. Oviously this could easily be expanded to a full polish club system (and obviously this is my choice), but i wanted to focus on the sperate case of 1D because i think its the most clear of all. Why use this low level bid for such a small group of hands especially the minors one which arent the most important in this game.

Thought about it too, but at the one level its too rate to penalty them, to waste your lowest bid on it.

Assume standard leads and signaling. Kanter's way is Q from QJ10 J from J109 or KQJ With only 2 honors usually dont split but if you do split: K from AK Q from KQ Q from QJ Looks kind of strange since no rule of either split high or split low. The Q is most ambigious but the idea is that wht only 2 honors KQ or QJ you usually dont split (also i guess if the ace is seen you can split KQ with the K and avoid this problem). Still i think there must be a better set of rules to spliting.

Holding KQJX(X) You lead K . Later in the game u get to lead again. Kanter say the lead of the J ask partner to drop the 10, meaning yo normaly would continue with the Q. When i learned the basics we always continue with the J and Q denied the J. Ofcourse you can say it depend on the exact situation... But what is the normal play ?

I dont understand what you want to do opposite those hands ? I dont see even a close alternative, what can you do ? bid 2S with 3 card suit ? If you think 2nt might be too high then you obviously wont bid 2H which is stronger then 2NT. so what can you bid ? go for 1nt if 2nt is too much. Anyway not so likely that my partner is so weak in the heart suit, since my RHO passed.

I dont like my screen full of black color so i put in enemy only those who really push it.

Come to israel and i will learn Moscito.

Moderen bridge defence by Eddie Kanter This is a book i wish i read 15 years ago. It contain all the defence basics and more. Example begin with the very beggining sequences 4th best etc, but get to more interesting stuff like when to play high in second sit, and ofcurse alot in between(like when to give count and not atitude and alot alot more). I used the CD version. even tho this is way below my level i still learned few things or atleast learn rules that might save time at the table. This book will help me teaching my students. Grade =A+ for begginer. ( This must come before any convention you thinking of learning) If you never read such a book that clear all the basics get this one even if you are better then begginer.

Dynamic defence by mike lawrence This isnt a quiz defence book like most, mike take you step by step into the diffence, which is much more like real life diffence. The hands arent supper hard, which again make this more of a real hand bridge book. GRade A for intermidiate and above

The Art of psychic bidding by Julian Pottage & Petter Burrows The main part of the Book give you many examples of real psychs that took place on world class games. There are other discussion but they werent arent interesting to me. Its nice to read the examples and you might even learn something but at the end you dont get the right tools to make you a good psycher.

127 Too much. 57 enemies which is also too much.

Pass

As much as i agree with those who said if you want to get better forget about systems, i know me and many others just love this part of the game. If i were you i would try somethign completetly different and most importantly something well documented. Yesterday i came across very good link to precision systems (beginners one and more serious one) http://bbo.pigpen.org.uk/ good luck

I guess i missed something, i thought 1H show 6+ hcp :-) The truth is everyone around me use wjs so there is no resson to bid light, we might even jump with 7 hcp, but if it suits your system then gl.

We respond fairly light, even with near-yarboroughs, if the hand is unbalanced and/or we are white. In those cases, usually, it's true that 3M might be too high, but quite often opps have game on and are on a guess in the sandwhich seat and later on, so it's risky for both sides to get frisky. So far we did not have big acidents with such an approach but to be fair, this was not tested vs world class opposition... However, the style we use to JUMP to 3H is only foer spaely hand: we play that opener's reverse guarantees 5-5.5 losers, and, for a hand limited to 15 hcp, this applies virtually only to 55 or 64 hands or better. In case of the 1D opener and jumpraise to 3M, it's almost sure it is a 64. So, this "safety mechanism" of bouncing only with shapely hands is already built-in. you are supporting my point, you now jump only with very strong hands this leave 2M with lots of hands, and i suggested to move some of them to 1nt, lets say 1nt is in between 2M and 3M (or any other definition). This mean you will not lose games when you have them, and wont get too high if yu invite after 2M and find partner is real minimum.

What do you lead in the middle of the game from 3/4 small cards ? I have two different mathods with two different partner with the first i play count ,i will lead low with the 3 cards and high with the 4 cards. With my second partner i would lead a high card since i dont have an honor. I find the second way easier , but i think the first way is better for good players who can count declarer's hand, and imagine the honors that needed for the diffence. Yet maybe givving too many counts help the declarer more the giving atittude. What do you play/prefer ?