RunemPard

Depends... Does your partner bid disciplined in 3rd/4th seat and/or in RED? Based on the bidding you can assume this is a split deck. I value your hand as having 5 losers or even 6. I see no real science to this hand...don't know the odds enough to even try to guess... Your guess is as good as mine...lol

You must bid here with 7 pts...you already passed once, pass again your either missing a part score or game.

Would of actually been more amusing if partner answered 2D and I became dummy...Made me wish I had this hand on a live bridge day just to lay those cards down on the table...lol

Most likely my partner chose to assume I had a 20-23 hcp hand that could not be supported to game alone. Usually is the case, but any 2C opener can be self supporting to game or in this case, higher. I was just happy to bid the hand to the appropriate level even though I was excited to even see such an amazing hand. To this point the best hand I have held outside of Goulash has been 2 balanced 27 hcp hands.

If a true beginner wants to jump into a more complex system, go ahead. I just posted what I started with. There is not really anything wrong with what I gave for a beginner and here in Sweden that is pretty much what any beginner starts out with. Limit raise response, simple 12-14 jump to 4 with nothing special in hand to discuss. Sure 5c majors are better to me as well, but that is for the player to decide as a beginner. Some may prefer playing 4 in all suits starting out.

For example...with my regular partner... I open 2C->reply 3N asks for her to bid aces in a line, 4N asks for kings...rarely use it, but I like to have it for the hands that need one or two special card(s).

Yet again...Obviously 7 is not to be tried with the full bidding here...the question is what is the best course to go about finding a POSSIBLE 7 before any bids are made. Even a hand that is not so drastically good. I posted this hand because it is the best hand I have ever seen outside of a Goulash tournament and want to know ways that exist to find out the information needed to accurately give 7 a shot.

Thought I would also add something about responses...very basic ones to help you determine if you should try game. 1♥->1N 6-9(10) HCP 0-2 or 0-3 hearts depending on how many the open promises. 1♥->2♥ 6-9 HCP with either 3 or 4 hearts depending on how many the open promises. 1♥->3♥ 10-11 HCP with either 3 or 4 hearts depending on how many the open promises. 1♥->4♥ 12-14 HCP with either 3 or 4 hearts depending on how many the open promises. 1♥->1♠/2♣/2♦ I think you should play these as forcing for now...It is acceptable to bid a new suit even with a fit in the bid suit in hopes of finding a much better hand than the points show. I actually think this is good for any beginner to learn early. (2C/D over a major is a standard 2/1 bid usually promising at least 10 HCP). 1♥->2N 11-14 HCP forcing game in NT. As you learn the game more you can look into Jacoby 2NT over a major suit opening. You can do the same for spades...however, with minors it is usually best to take it slow and try to find a NT or major fit before committing to a minor. Most of all have fun and enjoy.

I find the best way to play when just starting is something like... 1♣ - 12-19 (4+C) 1♦ - 12-19 (4+D) 1♥ - 12-19 (4+H) 1♠ - 12-19 (4+S) 1N - 15-17 balanced 2♣ - 20+ unbalanced or 22+ balanced 2♦ - 6-11 (6+D) 2♥ - 6-11 (6+H) 2♠ - 6-11 (6+S) 2N - 20-21 balanced 3♣ - 6-11 (7+C) maybe 6+C 3♦ - 6-11 (7+D) 3♥ - 6-11 (7+H) 3♠ - 6-11 (7+S) 3N - 24-25 balanced Very easy to learn...and IMO is what every player should start out with. You can use basic natural bids after 1NT, 2C, or 2NT if you wish. If you wish to try some basic "gadgets"...you can use 1N->2C = Stayman 8+ HCP (asks for a 4c major) 1N->2D = transfer to ♥ atleast 5 hearts and any value of points...1NT bidder should always reply 2♥ 1N->2H = transfer to ♠ atleast 5 spades and any value of points...1NT bidder should always reply 2♠ 1N->2N = 8-9 invite to NT game The same goes for 2NT except 3C is usually 4+ HCP and 3NT is game stop. For 2C responses I suggest a simple 2♦ 0-7 HCP, 2♥/♠ to show 5 cards in major, and 2NT to show 8+ HCP balanced. Keep it simple and always think of ways to improve. You are also welcome to play with 5 card major 1 openings, but this is not required when learning. Good luck! Don

Started playing Rubber Bridge on Pogo before playing duplicate...the scoring is technically the same. You are NV until you win a game. At this point you should be aggressive offensively and defensively in your bidding when the time calls for it. The way I played it was that if you made over 100 points in the game(set of hands before 100 is reached), you won that game and became vulnerable. If you win the 2nd match and have more total points than the other team, you win the match. NT=40-70-100... H/S=30-60-90-120... C/D=20-40-60-80-100... Slam bonuses depend on vulnerability. Do not remember seeing extra bonuses for bidding game when playing, but this could be a different type.

Me and my live partner choose to play @ MP.. 2C 6-8 HCP stayman (or a 9-10 which may have trouble with NT) (used @ MP gambling to find a suit fit over weaker NT) --2D shows H(can have S) --2H shows S(no H) --2S shows none with minimum values --2N shows none with maximum values (inviting) 2D ♥transfer 2H ♠transfer 2S ♣|♦transfer -> 2NT waiting 2N ACE ? 3C 9+ HCP stayman (GF) 3D 9+ HCP 5/4 ♥/♠ 3H 9+ HCP 4/4 ♥/♠ 3S 9+ HCP 5/5 ♥/♠ 3N STOP 4C ♥transfer (slam invite) 4D ♠transfer (slam invite) 4H STOP 7+♥ 4S STOP 7+♠ 4N 5/5 ♣/♦ (slam interest) Works very well for us...although I am sure some of it could be done away with for better alternatives.

In response to Dave...I find opening 2NT or 1NT will get you in more trouble than opening this hand...bad fit, lack of points, ect...but is that a reason to not open 1NT or 2NT? As said...any open risks a disaster...but not opening in fear of that, is silly.

When I said "find 7"...I obviously know that 7 is not mean't to make...I am referring to during the bidding.

4D-P-(4H/S)-P? 5C-P-up to partner you showed interest in slam

Yes...good point actually by Cyberyeti regarding them going up to 6S... By not bidding directly to 6D or 7D I leave myself open to getting ripped out of my slam. On the other side, by bidding 2C, I allow partner to show more... The best open is probably 6D with a partner who has some kind of convention with you. They should be able to tell if going to 7D is worth the shot?

Yes, that seems the best way...I thought about opening 6D with random pard, but there are 2 chances for me to make 7 and I did not want to give that up.

Not a problem...pretend you do not know about pard's lousy cards...how can you go about finding 7? Risking a pass by not bidding 6 directly, but 7 is a possibility also..

Blah...how do I make it bigger. Figured it out. :)

[hv=sn=south&s=SAQJT65H652D74C85&wn=RunemPard&w=SHAKQDAKQJ9865CAJ&nn=north&n=SK972HJT874DCKQ76&en=east&e=S843H93DT32CT9432&d=n&v=n&b=229&a=PPP2CPP2S6DPPP&p=S7S3SAD5DAS2D2D4DKH4D3D7DQS9DTS5DJH7C2S6D9H8C3STD8HTC4H2D6HJC9H5HAC6H3H6HKC7H9C5HQCQCTC8CACKS4SJCJSKS8SQ]400|300|[/color][/hv] Worthy of a post...? How do you go about finding 7? Was playing randoms on IMP tables...so not made for tournament.

[hv=lin=pn|inquiry,ilane,wgcr,jmcw|st%7C%7Cmd%7C3S467QHKD467C45JKA%2CS35H67TQADQKC2368%2CS2TKAH4589D28JACT%2C%7Crh%7C%7Cah%7CBoard%205%7Csv%7Cn%7Cmb%7C1D%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cmb%7C1S%7Cmb%7C2H%7Cmb%7C2S%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cmb%7C3S%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cmb%7C4S%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cmb%7Cp%7Cpc%7CC2%7Cpc%7CCT%7Cpc%7CCQ%7Cpc%7CCA%7Cpc%7CHK%7Cpc%7CHA%7Cpc%7CH5%7Cpc%7CH2%7Cpc%7CHQ%7Cpc%7CH4%7Cpc%7CH3%7Cpc%7CS4%7Cpc%7CS6%7Cpc%7CS3%7Cpc%7CSA%7Cpc%7CS8%7Cpc%7CH8%7Cpc%7CHJ%7Cpc%7CS7%7Cpc%7CH6%7Cpc%7CSQ%7Cpc%7CS5%7Cpc%7CS2%7Cpc%7CS9%7Cpc%7CCJ%7Cpc%7CC3%7Cpc%7CD2%7Cpc%7CC7%7Cpc%7CCK%7Cpc%7CC6%7Cpc%7CH9%7Cpc%7CC9%7Cpc%7CD4%7Cpc%7CDQ%7Cpc%7CDA%7Cpc%7CD3%7Cpc%7CSK%7Cpc%7CSJ%7Cpc%7CC4%7Cpc%7CH7%7Cpc%7CD8%7Cpc%7CDT%7Cpc%7CD6%7Cpc%7CDK%7Cpc%7CC8%7Cmc%7C11%7C]400|300|See it works. Dont' forget the last close bracket BEFORE the vertical and horizonal numbers. [/hv] testing?

15-16 HCP instead? Just add 17 HCP to 2D (17-19?)

2D-2S-P-3S P from my partner says it all...most likely I have a weak hearts, a strong solid minor, or a 4441 w/ s. spades. D would show a stronger 4441 unless decided to be penalty, no? I put up the bids in mind because asked earlier. Of course, if I often run into problems with a certain bid, it can be adjusted or scrapped if way too common. And yes, I do have fun trying out my minds' crazy ideas...even if it may be bad, I learn from it. I do see what you mean about the range being too high for 2C. Reason I tried to separate the C only hands (no NT interest) from 1D is to give more detail to the 1D bid. Either a 5cm w/ a 4cM, or a flat diamond opening hand that cannot be opened NT. 1NT bid takes away a lot of the normal weaekr balanced no 5cM 1C openings in standard systems. Ran 40 hands earlier and only one hand was a possible 2C opening...3325 dist. and 14 HCP. Although, 1NT probably fits this better. As for the 2M-level bids...I am new to them so I appreciate the feedback. I am interested in using them, but do need to learn much more about them. As always, thanks for the input, Don

I re-worked it quite a lot and put together a rough view of openings... 1C: 15+ HCP | (B) NT | rebiddable MAJOR | (UB) 20+ | 15-19 HCP 5/5 -1D: WAITING --1H: 15-19 HCP | rebiddable H --1S: 15-19 HCP | rebiddable S --1N: 15-17 HCP | (B) NT --2C: 20+ (UB) | OR | 22-24 (B) | OR | 20+ HCP strong major --2D: 18-19 HCP | (B) NT | (2H=negative - 2S=positive) --2H: 15-19 HCP | 5H+minor (2N=asking) --2S: 15-19 HCP | 5S+minor (2N=asking) --2N: 15-19 HCP | minors --3C: --3D: --3H: --3S: --3N: 25-27 HCP | (B) NT 1D: 12-19 HCP | NO 5cM | 5+ minor common | (4M/5m) 4351/4252/4054 OR 4441 | if NO 4cM = 5+minor 1H: 12-19 HCP | 12-14 6cM+ | 12-19 5cM | 15+ may have 5+4c side suit 1S: 12-19 HCP | 12-14 6cM+ | 12-19 5cM | 15+ may have 5+4c side suit 1N: 12-14 HCP | (B) NT 2C: 12-19 HCP | normally NO 4cM | 5+C 2D: Multi 2H: 10-14 HCP | 5H+4 side 2S: 10-14 HCP | 5S+4 side 2N: minors (preemptive) 3C: 6+C (preemptive) 3D: 6+D (preemptive) 3H: 7+H (preemptive) | 6+ H only 3S: 7+H (preemptive) | 6+ S only 3N: Gambling (AKQxxxx) minor Still vulnerable to preempts at the 1C level. Majority of hands will be NT hands or re-biddable major hands. A preempt from opponent may give us a fair bit of information if we should attempt game or not in NT. Will require good bidding after a preempt to determine if game is possible. Plan to make use of PASS/DBL to counter these as best as possible. Plans for multi are to show weak majors, strong 4441, strong minors, or stronger distributional hands.

1C - NO 5cM (12-19 HCP)(usually 5cm unless 4441) 1D - 15+ HCP (NT, 6cM+, or 20+ (UB) 1H - 12-19 HCP 5c | OR | 12-14 6c+ 1S - 12-19 HCP 5c | OR | 12-14 6c+ 1N - 12-14 HCP (B) 2C - OPEN FOR USE 2D - Multi variant 2H - OPEN FOR USE (If 10-14 5cM used, 1H/S become 15+ 5c)(If 5/4 major+side used...all 12-14 HCP 1H/S openings have no side suit) 2S - OPEN FOR USE (If 10-14 5cM used, 1H/S become 15+ 5c)(If 5/4 major+side used...all 12-14 HCP 1H/S openings have no side suit) 2N - OPEN FOR USE I believe a preempt over a 1D opening (usually NT holding I believe) would often give you more information than the opponents are gaining...