joshs

Actually, all non-forcing new suit bids by an unpassed hand are alertable in the ACBL. See the alert column in ACBL's alert chart: http://www.acbl.org/play/alertChart.html Josh I should have said after partner opens the bidding. After partner overcalls, the rules are strangly different. Someday they will simplify the alert rules. Personally My rules would be: a. Alert all conventional bids below 3N (yes even stayman). A conventional call is anything that does not promise length or values in the given strain OR promises length or values in some other strain (E.G 1N-2C showing C and another promises stuff in clubs, but also says something about some other suit so is conventional) b. Do not alert any x's or cuebids or passes. The opps should ask about these. This keeps the alert procedures simple. c. ALERT natural calls in new suits by unpassed hands that are not forcing (the opps need to know now that they might not get a second chance) in response to partner's suit bid. Some definition of Natural is required (so you can tell if your bid promises length or values in the given suit) and thats about it. In the US its customary for a new minor to promise 3 cards and a new major to promise 4 (but having values there is always sufficient) but in later rounds of the auction it might be less (E.G. 1S-1N-2C-2S-3H shows 5S 4C 3H, if this auction promises less than 3 hearts in your partnership then its an alert .) Anyway, my usual rambling...

Actually, all non-forcing new suit bids by an unpassed hand are alertable in the ACBL. See the alert column in ACBL's alert chart: http://www.acbl.org/play/alertChart.html Josh

Well for what's its worth, your hand A KJTx KJx Axxxx is a major problem hand. It is not good enough for a reverse, and you don't really want to rebid 2C. What's left? a. Open 1N (You hate doing that with a stiff in the major) b. Open 1D and rebid 2C over 1S. If partner bids 2D you overbid with 2N next or you guess to pass. c. Open 1C and rebid 2N over 1S (presumably 17-18 in your methods) I really dislike plan b (if you are going to have a strong auction, you should start with your longest suit, and if you plan on passing 2D you are better off opening 1C and rebidding 1N (underbid city!). I don't know. Its my style to either open 1N or open 1C and rebid 2C and pray I get a 3'rd bid... I think Al Roth would open 1N (Mike, you are the Al Roth fan, right?)since the hand is not good enough for a reverse and in his style its too good for either a 2C rebid or a 1N rebid. All in All probably 1N opening is the best bid... Over a reverse, the usual "expert standard" rules are: Responder's non-jump rebid of his suit, or bid of the cheapist of the 4'th suit or 2N is Forcing, but does not promise a rebid unless opener does something strong. Everything else sets up a game force. What is strong by opener? There is some disagreement there in expert styles. Some play that opener has to bid higher than 3 of his orginal suit to force (but a single raise of partner's suit is not forcing). Others play that anything other than 2N or either players first bid suit shows extra (E.G. 1D-1S-2H-2N-3C)

Well partner should be 3235 with the sort of hand that does not want to declare NT (normally with a big trump fit you bid 2N, so the implication is that he was initially interested in playing NT, but didn't want to declare NT). Dummy has 4 hearts and a club void (listen to the bidding!), so is likely 4450 or 5440. Declarer usually has 6H on this auction, but maybe has only 5. (5 is more consistant with partner's auction)Leading trumps will not help since there are only 2 clubs to ruff if partner has 5 clubs like he needs to have, so the biggest worry is the 5 card suit in dummy, and you don't kbnow which suit its in. One thing is pretty clear, the Spade K is not in declarer's hand, so lead the spade ace and then decide if you should continue spades or shift to diamonds. Actually a very likely layout is: Declarer having 1552 shape Dummy having 6430 shape Partner having 3235 shape in which case you might need to lead a diamond from the go if partner has KQT or KQJ of diamonds and the spade K as an entry, but in most other honor layouts the spade ace and diamond switch is good enough. If I recall, I was your partner and my hand was not exactly what you would expect but was close. (something like Kxx x Kxxx KJxxx? ) I guess if I am not going to bid 2N with this hand I should like flip-flop more than I do. :)

The Washington DC style (here's to you Mr Robinson) when playing 2/1 is Invitational Jump Shifts at the 3 level (no need for ugly 4'th suit forcing auctions just to show strength when you make a GFing 2/1, and fills what is otherwise a hole in 2/1) and strong jump shifts at the 2 level (which does fill a hole) . Some prefer INV at the 3 and weak at the 2. I generally prefer strong at the 2 with no discussion, since it is less likely to come up. I hate having to guess what partner's range is for 1C-P-2S(weak) and to guess what my 2N means.... Basically, I think the default should be strong with no discussion, but I would never use the bid with no discussion.... Josh

Well my double raises are very sound (E.G 18-19 balanced with 4 card support is just a double raise), so this is a 3H or 3D bid for me (3D if its a mini-splinter is my preference). If partner bids 4N, playing standard methods, I can bid 5N (2 keycards and a void). Its worth discussion in your partnership if 6C over that asks for the void, asks for the trump Q, or is something else. In my usual methods the auction would go: 1C-1H-3D(shortage in D or in S, and a hand worth 3H or 5H)-3S(asking for shortage)-3N(Short diamonds)-4S(rkc)-6C(2, no Q and diamond void)-7H(we might have play for 8 hearts!) In these methods, if partner didn't ask for the shortness first, I would not show a void in my key card steps.

Well this is an interesting decision. Xing is normal but also depends on partnership style a lot. Partner is marked with about 10-14 HCP, and likely has 4 hearts (maybe only 3) and likely has club shortness (but its not guaranteed) and did not x 1C or overcall. If Partner has 4 hearts, he probably does not have 4 spades, or he has only 10-11 HCP. What is the moral of this? The moral is: balancing when partner failed to act over the opponents 1C opening is more dangerous than usual. Options: A. You can x 1H. This is also a bit dangerous, but you are a level lower. This may help the opps with the play if they are strong, or may help partner with his defense. Rarely will it ever find a good sack, since partner, with a long suit, would have bid already. If your values were mostly in S and Diamonds I would vote for xing 1H, but as they are I probably would pass 1H. Having said that, I am a strong believer in bidding very agressively at the 1 level rather then guessing in balancing auctions and I don't mind xing 1H. B. You can x 2H. You likely have a fit somewhere (but probably at the 3 level), and hopefully partner knows to bid 2S with 3433. C. You can bid 2S. If you do this frequently on this hand type, partner probably should not bid 2S on 3433 if you x. This is a partnership style thing. In general, when in a dangerous situation, try to stay off the 3 level where its easy to get xed (This is sometimes known as "Rodwell's Rule"). At the 2 level, even if one player xes the other player often pulls... E.G. With less than half the deck you are often better off in a 7 card fit at the 2 level than an 8 card fit at the 3 level where you are more likely to get xed. Here you don't know that you have less than half the deck, but partner with a 10 count might suspect it. Josh

Kit Woolsey once wrote an article recomending responding to splinter's by showing your own singleton if you have one (you, of course, have less options than usual if you don't have one). Its an interesting idea, since sometimes two minimum hands with "matching singletons" fit very well, assuming you have enough trumps...

Adam, I wasn't claiming that KERI was a bad base for a method. In fact its a very good base (I agree that in general, its best to have the NT bidder who is balanced find out responder's shape and then evaluate his honors). I was just commenting that you need to make various modifications for it to be really effecient, since there are a lot of idle sequences and some difficult hand types without them. I wasn't giving my example's initially to show the superiority of one x-fer checkback scheme vs another, just to give examples of how x-fer checkback schemes work in general, since I was asked about x-fer checkback schemes (other than KERI). The examples were just cut and pasted out of one of my sets of system notes (I switched some 1D precision openings to the correct minor). I also think that: a. natural minors then 1N b. natural minors then 1N but will bypass 1S even over 1H (e.g. most weak NT schemes) c. non-natural minors etc. have some subtle differences. For instance, Eric Leong's orginal suggestion of 2S over the 1N rebid as a 4+ card raise of opener's minor doesn't make much sense playing c, but is pretty good playing a or b (but has a problem with my example 5332 responding hand). I think in Leong's method that hand can x-fer and then bid 3D showing a 3 card raise. That sequence is usually 5431 with 4 in the other minor, but perhaps can be this hand type also. Also, x-fer to 2M and then bid 3 OM can be giving an ART meaning. Lots of possibilities.... But the key elements are always the same: responder should be able to: a. show a singleton (or imply one by bidding around it if opener's doesn't show that suit) b. generally show shape, so opener can evaluate his honors c. have some way of bidding strong balanced hands with mild slam interest and 3/4 cards in partner's suit.

Maybe play x-fer then partner's suit = 4+ cards x-fer then new suit= 5 cards. And x-fer then 2N = 3 cards in partner's suit or 4 cards in a new suit, with slightly modified steps. Or instead we can turn the 2C-2D-2N sequence into something useful. Its possible that that is the way to bid these hands: Play 1m-1M-1N-2C-2D-2N: 3C= 5 card minor then 3D asks for 3 card support and 3M asks for Hx in support Over 3C-3D: 3M=3 card support, 3OM=5-4 in minors, 3N=others 3D = 4333 hand 3M = 3 card support, 4432 type hand (RARE since didn't raise) 3OM= 4432 hand with Hx in major 3N=4432 without Hx (or possibly 4441 with a stiff spade) Anyway, just some random thoughts.

Certainly not as such will only revive the old days with many rude leavings of tables. I hope your intensions are not to aleviate your headache by imposing your problems to others. Your proposal will just be heading more rude behavior. We need to minimize such. If your mind is somewhere else than the table you are at then leave it in good order by the end of the hand. You will no longer be a credible opponent and all will welcome your leaving. Huh??? I wasn't leaving the table without telliong anyone. In fact I am usually just kibbitzing...

Well opening 1H is normal. If you played the 4N opening as specific aces, you could try that (5C shows none, 5N shows clubs, 6 level bids show 2 and you bid the lower one). Personally I think 1H then 3D then 4H over discouraging noise is enough. If the auction gets competative you will be happy to have started naturally.

Here is a hand from the Albuquerque regional: Partner: Kx xxx Axxxx AQx Me: AQJxx AJx KQT xx Our Auction: 1D(Precision)-1S-1N(Good 13-15)-2D(ART GF)-3D(Reasonable 5 card suit)-4D(I like that suit)-4S(Hx, non-forcing)-6N(A club lead might hurt us, or it might give us our 12'th trick, let them guess) Partner was min, but both suits came in and we picked up a good swing. Slam was a very good contract. Playing x-fer checkback then waiting 2N: 1D-1S-1N-2H-2S-2N-3D(4 strong diamonds or 5 decent diamonds)-4D-4S-6N(I think he has 5 Diamonds) Playing KERI: 1D-1S-1N-2H-2S-4N-P There is not even a good bid with this hand over a natural 1D opener, and thats a problem.

BTW, here is another possible re-arangement in KERI: 1N-2C-2D-2H In Standard Keri: 2S 4/5 Spades, 2H Min 2N 2-3 Spades, 2H Min 3C 4 Hearts, Good Min 3D any 4333, max 3H 3 trumps, not 4333, max 3S 4/5 spades, 2H max 3N 2-3 Spades, 2H Max A re-arrangement: 2S 4/5 Spades, 2H Min 2N 2-3 Spades, 2H Min 3C Max Either 3H Or 5S or Both 3D any 4333, max 3H 4 hearts, good min 3S 4 Spades, 2H max 3N 2-3 Spades, 2H max After the 3C bid: 3D asks: 3H 3 hearts (maybe 4 spades) then 3S asks for 4 spades and 3N says no. 3S 5S, 2H 3N 5S, 3H You can also use 3H or 3S to ask for other things directly- for instance if you want to play in spades without revealing if partner has 2 or 3 hearts. Anyway, I think being able to distinguish between 4 and 5 spades is probably more useful than being able to make a counter-try over the 4 cards support but good min bid. Josh

Adam, In example 5 how would you bid the 5422 with 4 in the other minor? You want to play 4M opposite a 4333 hand. Hence I didn't think that the sequence you have actually showed 4 card support for partner, at least not without discussion. Now there are some idle sequences that can be used to solve this problem (2C-2D-3N offers a choice, x-fer to the major and then 3N orders partner to show support) although there are still issues with mild slam tries (requires a max and a fit for slam). BTW, tell us more about the re-arangement of the x-fer splinters?

Well I hook the diamond at trick 1. If it loses I am playing LHO for a stiff trump ace (low trump from both hands and then later hook against the J). If the diamond hook wins, I play a trump to the K and the CK out of my hand. I am pretty sure that I don't need a club ruff and can squeeze LHO in the end game (especially if he ducks the CK). Anyway, thats my first thought. Josh

BTW, the one time I played ACOL in a real event, it was a very americanized version: 1. Weak NTs 2. 4 card majors but we usually opened a minor with 4-4 unless the major was much better 3. 2/1's promising a rebid 4. Bergen raises (I actually like these much better playing 4 card majors and a weak NT than playing 5 card majors) 5. Constructive single raises, which usually have only 3 card support 6. 1X-1N-2N was 17-18ish 7. A mini-multi 2D with Intermediate 2's 8. Non-forcing single raises in the minors, and criss-cross as the forcing raise

As has been pointed out, the main differences between ACOL and SAYC are: 1. ACOL is 4 card majors, SAYC is 5 2. ACOL plays light 2/1 bids that do not promise a rebid. SAYC 2/1 bids supposidly promose a rebid, although many SAYC players do not know this 3. Part of the reason for ACOL's light 2/1 bids is: a. ACOL is usually played with a weak NT, so many 9 or 10 counts need a convienyant way to invite game b. ACOL often is played with light opening bids in the majors (with 5 card suits), so you need to be able to stop low after opening an 11 count when the 2/1 is made on 9 or 10 4. Practically all jumps in ACOL are Invitational (e.g. 1m-2N or 1M-3M) while in SAYC some are forcing (1m-2N). American bidding started with all jumps being forcing but has been migrating in the ACOL direction so most are INV these days. Quite frankly, I am really not sure there is "1 system" known as ACOL, since ACOL players all do very different things. But they are all 4 card majors and very natural. Josh

Sorry in my example 5 I meant to have KQx Ax xxx Axxxx

Note: The following assumes natural 1m openers. If you are playing a precision 1D there are some modifications that you need. After 1m-1S-1N 2C forces 2D and then: 2H or 2S are natural and INV (Optional: Play this as a shapely Invite) 2N Many options for this. I like: shows 5 in M and a sound invite 3m INV, only 4 in M 2D shows 4+H, either weak or game forcing. Opener bids 2H or preferences 2S with equal length. 2H shows 5+S, either weak or game forcing 2S is a game forcing raise in openers minor (in Leong's Article) Or you can play it as Game force with interest in a minor (as I currently play it) 2N Natural 3C to play Others Natural and slammish with good suits (or INV with good suits if you prefer). Follow ups from Leong: x-fer then 2N = 4 card support for minor, you can then play natural continuations or relay for shape. I can't remember what was in leong's article x-fer then 3m = unbalanced with 3 card support (hence typically 5134) ALternatively Play: 2N Game forcing waiting 3m=4 card support 3'rd Alternative: x-fer then 2N as Keri, other's 5 card suits After opener shows both majors, his 3'rd bid just patterns out. Example 1: Axx Qxx xxx AQxx KQxxx AKJx x Kxx 1C-1S-1N(12-14)-2D(4+H)-2S(preference)-3C(GFing, 5413 or similar)-3S(Agrees spades for the moment)-? Now by usual rules we don't play non-serious 3N here (NT already bid naturally) so responder will have to make 1 cue bid with this mild slam try and then opener will co-operate. Note that in these auctions, opener should only take over after a cue-bid with a perfeco since responder didn't have non-serious available. Example 2: Axx Qxx xxx AQxx KQxx AKJ KJxxx x 1C-1S-1N-2S(Game force in some minor)-2N-3D-3N or 1D-1S-1N-2S-2N-3D-3S(weak hearts)-3N Instead: Example 3: Axx Qxx AQxx xxx KQxx AKJ KJxxx x 1D-1S-1N-2S-2N-3D-3H(weak clubs)-4C(Cbid)-4D-4H(rkc) Probably 4H directly over 3H should be an offer to play opposite 4 good hearts. Alternatively opener might just raise 3D to 4D directly. I don't think opener can ever sit for 3N with 10/12 points in responders suits. Example 4: (If you want to play this in xyz auctions also) KQxx Axx x Axxxx xx KQxxx Ax KQxx 1C-1H-1S-2D(usually 6 H or a GF in this auction since opener doesn't have to have 2 hearts )-2H (or 3H with this super-max!)-2N (or 3C)-etc and a slam will be reached. Playing imps 6C is the better spot.... Example 5: KQxx Ax xx Axxxx xx KQxxx Ax KQxx Here the Keri -auction will miss the great club slam: 1C-1H-1N-2D-2H-2N-3C(no fit, shortage?)-3N(None, less than a sound slam try)-P A natural continuation works well here: 1C-1H-1N-2D-2H-2N(wating)-3C(5 clubs or 4 strong clubs)-4C or 1C-1H-1N-2D-2H-3C(5 clubs or 4 strong clubs)-? (my vote is 3S then 4C but 4C directly is also fine) Example 6: KQx Ax xxx Axxxx Xx KJxxx Qxx xxx 1C-1H-1N-2D-2H-P In General, all you really need is: a. INV sequences start with 2C (or a direct bid of 2N) b. x-fers are weak or strong c. in a game forcing auction, all 2N bids are just waiting d. x-fer to 2N is GFing waiting with interest in partner's minor e. In a game forcing auction, opener does not have to complete a x-fer, but can bid naturally instead: Kx Axx xxx AKxxx AQxx Kxx Ax Qxxx 1C-1S-1N-2S(Game forcing waiting)-3C(strong 5 card suit)-4C-etc. In this auction responder bid 2S just in case opener would rebid 3C, but was planning on just bidding 3N otherwise. f. Playing this structure, I reccomend using 3 level jumps as slammish (new suits are good 5 card suits) except for 3C which has to be to play. Alternatively, give up the 2N natural and play 4 suit x-fers and use 2C then 2N as the only NT invite. There are many possible varients here... Josh

Hmm, well declarer is likely 3631 but he may be 2632 (partner has stiff K) or 3721. We either need 3 diamonds or 2 diamonds and a trump trick. I believe partner has a trump trick: here is why: If declarer had AKQxxx or better in trumps he might have just bid 4H, but since he went to the bother of offering a choice of contracts, its more likely that his trumps are not self-sufficient. Its not an iron clad deduction (he might be tring to get to 3N with Qxx AKQxxx Qxx x) but since we don't know he has the spade Q, and we don't know he would bid like this with this hand, I rather cash my AK of diamonds and see what happens... Josh

If you want to play KERI over the 1N rebid, there are a few sequences which are idle, and others which are not all that useful and should be modified. Obviously, 1C-1H-1N-3D can't be heart shortage. But thats not that big a deal. The bigger deal, is that 1m-1M-1N-2C-2D-2N doesn't help much playing standard keri. I recomend either: a. Playing that as a sound invite with a 5 card major (my usual treatment) or b. Game forcing waiting bid or c. just change the responses Also, 1C-1H-1N-2S-2N-3new as rkc doesn't make much sense. My preference is x-fer checkback instead of KERI (see, for instance, Eric Leong's article in TBW from june 91). This lets responder completely pattern out in game forcing auctions. Josh

I have this constant headache that in order to set up a team game, I need to leave the table I am at, and then type in the usernames of all the people who are going to play. Since I can never remember the usernames of all the people, I need to write them down on paper. I would like to set up a team from the current table, where I can see the names of the people at that table. Ideally, you could right click them with the mouse and then select an "add to team game" option. Josh

You can occasionally see an australian pair playing Moscito on BBO. Parl Marsden might be playing it of course, but I think I recently saw bobby richmond playing it with someone (Lorenz?). Dan Neill and I play TOSR on BBO (x-fer openings, strong club, symmetric relay) but there are a few significant style differences between the systems (Moscito is more agressive, especially with the 3 card raises). Josh

Well I usually check the 2-way checkback box, and in the space next to it write in XYZ. Oh, thats not what you meant? :) Josh