joshs

Oh yeah, I also pull if I have a certain slam, but no trump trick, even if close to balanced. E.G. AKxx KJTx Axxx x since down 2 or 3 will be a bad score. Its worth discussing what the difference between 5N and 6C is... Josh

Well I pull with: a. a very offensive hand OR b. A mildly offensive hand, but slam interest Otherwise I take the plus. In this case you have a mildly offensive hand, but no slam interest (i.e. no reason to expect to go plus at the 5 level.) Josh

Well I think 2C then 2S is clearly right, and I do not think it promises any values. Generally, the cue bid shows only 3 card support for the first bid suit, or a total rock crusher (bit over a minor suit response he might have 4 card support and is trying to get to NT), so the first order of business is to identify a playable strain. With a better hand I might decide that Txxx was a stopper, but not with this junk. What I definitely do not want partner to think, is that he is facing 5 clubs... Note: There is no hand with any playing potential that I would bid a 5 card minor before a 4 card major at this level, so 2C then 2S shows a hand with only 4 clubs, only 3 spades, that can't bid NT or counter cue-bid (I would bid 3D with Qxx Qxx xxx Qxxx.) Josh

In general, AKQ points are better when both players are relatively balanced. AK points (e.g. controls) works better when both are unbalanced. And in between there is not much to choose between. It is possible, of course, to have two different asks. Or to have some sequences that say "bid on with extra values (when playing controls) or bid on with extras controls (when playing AKQ points). So the main issue is grand slam bidding, and for that, AKQ points are better. But none of this really matters much.... Josh

Well you have the methods for this hand. This is a classic x-fer to 2 clubs and then bid 2H hand. That typically shows about 7-9 with 5 clubs and 2 hearts. A perfect description of you hand. After the light xx, you are pretty much stuck over 2S, since you are in a forcing auction (My vote is 2N if I miscounted my points the first time and xxed). Its normal to be in a force through 2N when you have announced values to be able to play 2N or higher.

Many possible auctions here: P-P-1D-2D P-2S-P-? Note: with 6S, and diamond shortage, there is a 4D bid available. So the following sequences all carry the strong implication of only 5S. Its unclear to me how to show a forcing 5503 hand, since I don't think 3C is forcing, and I am not sure what 4C is (probably a splinter without agreements, but I don't think that is as important a handtype as 5503 strong). Option A: 4H-P (This doesn't show the void, but gets the COG correct) Option B: 3D-3S-4C(Is this a cue bid, or is it 5503 strong?)-5C-5H-5S-P (A reasonably agressive slam auction) Option C: 3D-3S-4H(I think this should be 5602 Strong)-and south is worth a try over this so-5D(generic try, some useful cards)-5H(Min for previous action)-P I think C is the correct auction. As to the play in 6S, if spades are 3-3, you can afford to lose to the Spade J, as long as you can run hearts or clubs: If opener's shape was 3244 or 3442 or 3352 or you can hook for the J since you have at least one other chance is reserve (JX of clubs or Kx of hearts). So lets assume opener was none of these. Opener is likely balanced and the lack of a diamond raise indicated opener probably had 5 diamonds: 4252 (hook against him) 2452 (hook the other way) 2254 (hook the other way) 2353 (hook the other way). All in all, I will ruff, and run the spade T at trick 2. If it wins, I cross to the SK, cross to the CA, pull trumps. If trumps are 3-3 I concede a heart, if 4-2 I play CQ to the K and hope the J falls and if not hope Kx of hearts is onside. If I lose the trump finesse I hope trumps are 3-3 and one of my chances comes in... Josh