aawk

So long I get a average of 10 HCP per hand I am happy and don't worry about the rest.

Playing 2nd to dummy gives your partner a lot of information how to proceed. That opponents also get this info doesn't matter because partner don't have to guess your holdings in the suit that is played. I play 1/2/4 to dummy being : 1 if you hold a single or doubleton and interested in a ruff 4 if holdings in dummy would cost a trick if you play 2 2 in any other situation example : you hold QJxx if you don't play 1/2/4 the Q shows partner only that you hold the Q if you do play 1/2/4 the J shows partner you hold J or Jx or AJ(+) or KJ(+) or QJ(+) If you decide with your partner to play second to dummy you also should play current count. This means if you play a suit for the second time to the dummy you play high from x or xx and low from xxx(+). A good rule to agree on is that signals may never cost a trick. This means that if your partner plays a card you don't expect something special is going on.

2♦ = A) weak 6 card major B) strong nt 22-23 HCP (or any other range you agree on) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦- 2♥ = non forcing for a 6 card ♥ and non forcing or invite or better for 6 card ♠ (less than 15 HCP) 2♦- 2♥ - 2♠ - ? pass to play 3♠ invite 4♠ to play 2♦ - 2♥ - 2nt - ? (bid same as after a strong 2nt openings bid) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 2♠ = non forcing for a 6 card ♠ invite or better for 6 card ♥ (less than 15 HCP) 2♦ - 2♠ - 2nt - ? (bid same as after a strong 2nt openings bid) 2♦ - 2♠ - 3♥ = minimum 6 card h 2♦ - 2♠ - 4♥ = maximum 6 card h ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 2nt = round forcing 15+ HCP 2♦ - 2nt - 3♣ = minimum 6 card ♥ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♦ = minimum 6 card ♠ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♥ = maximum 6 card ♥ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♠ = maximum 6 card ♠ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♣ - 3/4♥ = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♣ - 3nt = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♣ - 3♠/4♣/4♦ = cue bid for ♥ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♣ - 4nt = asking aces (no ♥ fit needed) 2♦ - 2nt - 3♦ - 3/4♠ = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♦ - 3nt = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♦ - 4♣/4♦/4♥ = cue bid for ♠ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♦ - 4nt = asking aces (no ♠ fit needed) 2♦ - 2nt - 3♥ - 3nt = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♥ - 4♥ = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♥ - 3♠/4♣/4♦ = cue bid for ♥ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♥ - 4nt = asking aces (no ♥ fit needed) 2♦ - 2nt - 3♠ - 3nt = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♠ - 4♠ = to play 2♦ - 2nt - 3♠ - 4♣/4♦/4♥ = cue bid for ♠ 2♦ - 2nt - 3♠ - 4nt = asking aces (no ♠ fit needed) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 3♣ = to play 7+ card ♣ rather 3♣ than 2♥/♠ (or any other agreement) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 3♦ = to play 7+ card ♦ rather 3♦ than 2♥/♠ (or any other agreement) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 3♥ = invite for 6 card ♥ and invite or better for 6 card ♠ (3-15 HCP) 2♦ - 3♥ - pass = to play 6 card ♥ minimum 2♦ - 3♥ - 3♠ = 6 card ♠ minimum 2♦ - 3♥ - 3nt = strong nt 2♦ - 3♥ - 4♥ = 6 card ♥ maximum 2♦ - 3♥ - 4♠ = 6 card ♠ maximum -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2♦ - 3♠ - invite for 6 card ♠ and game forcing for 6 card ♥ (3-15 HCP) 2♦ - 3♠ - pass = to play 6 card ♠ minimum 2♦ - 3♠ - 3nt = strong nt 2♦ - 3♠ - 4♥ = 6 card ♥ 2♦ - 3♠ - 4♠ = 6 card ♠ maximum --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- on agreement 2♦ - 3nt = to play 17+ HCP 2♦ - 4♣ = barrage asking for transfer 6 card or 4nt if strong nt (5-15 HCP) 2♦ - 4♦ = barrage asking for 6 card or 4nt if strong nt (5-15 HCP) 2♦ - 4♥ = to play 6+ card ♥ or slam forcing opposite strong nt 2♦ - 4♠ = to play 6+ card ♠ or slam forcing opposite strong nt 2♦ - 4nt = asking aces ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If played in combination with the loosing trick count a 6 card shows 8 LTC or better and a invite therefore done with 7 LTC etc.

To improve your play it's better (and easier) to read books about it than trying to teach yourself.

Thepossum must be a fan of Q :) .

I you think you are robbed don't play for money. You can play for free on bbo.

The (bridge) world is coming to the end. Please BBO do something before we start enjoying bridge.

Don't worry to much about it on BBO 90 % of self proclaimed advanced or experts are not of the level the think they are. Your partner will learn your playing level during play and if he/she won't notice that means you are way better than them. Putting in private is ok.

In any game or sport are cheaters and sad to say also in bridge. Even the best bridge pair in the world did it. But it always comes out and then what is left from their reputation. So if you suspect a cheat report it to BBO and trust they will take action (I know they do). Just have fun in playing bridge and don't worry about cheaters they love to win but not the game they play and admit the suck at it.

If you chance 10 to T you cannot fines the 1/2 anymore.

You can hire me to count your points lets say 200 euros per hour.

Every few month there is a post from somebody complaining about not getting enough points. Thinking that BBO is controlling how much HCP you are getting. Well some people also think the world is flat.

Start playing poker and when you lost all your money you cannot afford internet any more and your problem is solved. If you are serious seek help from a professional.

In the table options you can fill in the completion rate needed to join the table. You could also put in a timer for length of time you have to make a bid. For example the following options for play : speed bridge = 15 seconds, fast bridge = 25 seconds or normal bridge = 60 seconds. The length of thinking time is not needed to be fixed and could be like the completion rate to be filed in by the table captain.

Goulash is best played when your drunk and don't care anymore. By the way goulash is better to eat and I was learned never to play with my food.

If it feels imbalanced it doesn't mean it is. For the next 1000 boards you play ad all your HCP together and dived it by 1000 and you see the outcome will be 10. If that a problem start a practice table and deal 1000 boards and do the same. In any sport we always look for a excuse why we lost and it can't be us.

To me the hand is not a double. First double than introducing a new suit showing a strong hand needs more than your 14 HCP. I would bid 4♠. But now your partner is faced with a jump to 3♠, holding KQxx in ♠ must be enough to bid 4♠. Why you ask, trust your partner.

My guess is that you don't play leblesol. If so 3♣ shows a minimum and should be non forcing. Partner shows a maximum and wants to play 3nt. Bidding 4c is to play not interested in 3nt most likely a 5xx4 pattern and less than 5 HCP. If you agreed on 3♣ being forcing than 4♣ is slam forcing.

6NT is made if ♥ are 3-3 or Q of ♠ drops. If they lead ♥ play small in both hands test the ♠ and if Q does not drop 6nt is made if ♥ drop. If they lead ♣/♦/♠ take the lead and give them a ♥ trick then test the ♠ and if Q does not drop 6nt is made if ♥ drop.

Ok now a serious answer. Never be bothered by opponents bidding concentrated on you and your partner. To open 1nt on a 4441 pattern without a A or K in the singleton is not recommended, it can work against robots but then you play fool the robots instead of bridge.

The robots don't have ten fingers is my guess.

Rule number 1 after a weak/preemptive bid never sell your hand twice (only reason to do so is holding a extreme pattern). Seeing all hands south bidding is a bid strange. Bidding you suit 3 times with a passing partner can't be the right move (4♥ is a underbid starting with a double is better because his partner doesn't need a lot for 6♥). Partner lift them to 6 level so trust him 6♥ will be set.

West overcall is not my style but ok. N/S will find a way to 4♠ and west leads the K of ♥. Do E/W play distribution on a K lead ? If not E will hold the A of ♥ otherwise W would play a 3rd round of ♥, if so trump with the 9 and it is still made with the J of ♠ in west. After the A of ♣ cross in ♠ trump a ♥ (with the 9) and with the K of ♦ on side 4♠ is made.

Is it possible those players where playing in a different group and scores where calculated for each group.

Trying to let the strong hand playing the contract after a 2♣ means you need a lot agreements. This means more ways to make mistakes and also bidding space is lost. So for the first 10 years you play bridge is keep it simple is the best way imo. for example after 2♣ : 2♦ = relay no other bid possible or needed 2♥/♠ = 5+ card 5+ HCP (or any agreement you like) 2nt = balanced 5+ HCP (with 5-7 hcp 3nt not possible) 3♣/♦ = 5+ card 5+ HCP (or any agreement you like) 3♥/♠ = solid 6+ card 3nt = balanced 5-7 HCP no aces or kings (on agreement at least 3-3 in majors) 4♣/♦ = slam forcing in ♣/♦ with 7+ card or closed 6 card