WGF_Flame

In my gerber u can find out about specific 8s :D

Mp i would double, this is because i think 3nt will be a vgood score for them anyway, if they make it. the resson im not bidding 4 is because there is a good chance that this 3nt will not make, yes east would like to have j10xx in D and both majors As and a runing club, but in real life he might bid this 3nt on maney other hands which he hopes will give him a good score, for example he doesnt have to have the A of spade. Imp i would bid, vul game is possibe, 2 down is less possible, so i want to be there, what exactly is parnership agrement, imo this 3h shows hearts and spades, it doesnt show better hearts then spades, and i will therefore bid 4sp.

Id go with the 4♦ = cue bid, not because its not a good idea to play it as a natural bid but because its much better to have bidding guidelines , defaults and not to gadge each bid each time, and the default for me, is that a new minor bid at the 4 level, is not natural but cue bid with a fit, this makes life much easier even tho on a specific aution u might find ressons to play it naturally.

Its a metter of partnership. with no drury i would pass all of them. with drury i would pass the first and open the next two.

After alot of thinking i decided that its best to play small at trick one against a good diffender, who usually will not lead a singelton vs 7, and i think its more then 50% line. the other simple option is playing the finesse of club which is oviously 50%. The all story would change if u got the 10 of dimond in hand (and maybe even the 9) with this 10 u got more lines that doesnt depend on 3-2 dimond. The normal line is to play A of heart at trick one , ruff a spade , take out the trumps, check the heart suit for 3-3 and if not take the finnese. An alternative line (which is just as good) would be to Drop the 10 on the A and if on the second turn of heart, on the second heart u play 8 to the K, and if the 9 or J drops from west, u play on finnesing east. if west drops the 9 or J u know he is either 9x Jx or J9x (if he got 9xx or Jxx it doesnt matter), then finnesing is a nice line of 66% (not 50% due to restricted choice) which is exctly the same as playing for 3-3 or a finnese. so u got two lines with same pracantage, unless the lead tell u which is better. a bad alternatives - if u think this lead is either a singeltor or a suit with a J , u got the line of playing the A , droping the 8 , and then finnesing east twice on heart .imo this lead would be 3 smalls more times then singelton and therefore this line isnt good.

There are two ways to handle falsecarding, the first one is to have a feeling, meaning u r better then ur opponents in this game of pocker. the second is just the opposite, forget about any feeling and play the precentage play, on the two examples above my post, on the first one, i dont care if he puts the Q or the K on the first time, and dont care what face he does when playing it , i will play the precentage. on the second example as the defender , i will not assume that declerer doesnt has the J of dimond, i will just analyse what is better statistically, his hving J or is having a singelton and play accordingly. I'm sure there are great players who can read faces but i cant so i usually try the second way.

I dont think there are two options here, just one u bid 2h and do it in tempo. 1nt has no point, not only it lay about your hand, even if it would show 0 pnts its still a poor contract which rates to be doubled, 2h will be better most of the times.

i Agree about the partnership bidding book, i read it once and now found it online and reading it again, its a must read for anyone who want to play bridge on a adv+ level, one of the best books and if its free then how can you not read it. and thxs to daniel for his amazing page.

I'v recently run into some thoretical bidding articals, and i'v seen other ppl here trying to find the best system. Usually ppl are trying to come up with system that will discribde the hands as good as possible and get them to the right contract, this is usually right (usually and not exactly, because giving more information then needed is giving extra to the opponents) To do this the main idea is to find the less bidding space consuming, which givie u planty of time to picture your hand. The problem with this approach is that it treats all the aution as one, meaning how much information did i manage to deliver in my bids, and not how much info did my single bid gave. doing this you ignore one importent thoretical fact, giving the info early is supirior to giving it late, if i give 40% info on my first bid and then another 30% on the second, but never give the full 100%, its usually better then a system that gives 20% each bid and get to the full 100%, the resson is that we dont know how many bids we will have, before the opponents will enter the bidding and eat our bidding space. in the real world, most bids our side doesnt bid alone, and when we do bid alone, we rate to get it right most of the time with most of the systems, so focus on the competetive aspect, meaning giving more info earlier.

Im looking for a serious expert partner, mainlly to play online on BBO, but i have some hopes (...dreams) to be good enough to play some serious turnaments offline if we'll happend to create a good enough partnership of if my partner will live close to me which is in Israel. The partner need to be 1. Nice , if u r full of yourself and like to be rude to your oppenent or partner, then no matter how good you are, im not intrested. 2. have a good bidding understanding, in particular understanding of competetive bidding , low of total tricks, cooperative double etc. 3. good enough play and diffence. 4. this is importent to me and actually is the main resson that i decided to post online (which is a long shot anyway), i want to play a complex system, its a natural system called "Ambra". I think its a great system, although it will take work to learn (which is cool to do online with the book open). I'm soon to be 30, pretty good although not a fully profesional player. email - WGF_Flame@intermail.co.il

first of all its a very bad idea to assume 2nt is natural, u need to ask not to assume. i play 1sp after this specific sequence to be 4 cards, but thats a matter of partnership agrement and its just this specific 1cl 1d , on any other it shows 5. double of this natural 2nt should show extra hcp usually without too good fit and suggest leaving it, again its a matter of partnership and its not a bad idea to play this as showing a specific 3 card support in case 1spade only shows 4. 4d is definatly a splitnter showing a good hand (better then u got) 3sp shows no extra just good fit. 3d should show a better hand with a fit, there is no point in playing 3d as asking for stoper here. 3h if no other agrement is natural showing 5 hearts and 6 clubs. (i dont think u need another agrement for this bid. all in all its 3d is the best cause ur a bit stronger then 3sp and too weak for 4d.

what do u mean by that ? what dont u like about Gerber ?

my answer is 3H. First of all, you have to bid something (other then pass) 2nt is natural (not a two suiter) so u have a choice between two bids, 3h and D If u plan on doubling u got to be sure that if u correct parnter's 3cl into 3d ur p will understand u got dimond and hearts, and not a super dimond one suiter, even if u play this method (which is imo the right one) i would still bid 3h imidiatly since this bid is simpler and i do feel good about bidding 4d. i prefer to leave those doubles for 4-5, and bid directly with such nice suits.

1. the normal bid is 2sp, but i have another thory about inv, there is a prob with this kind of hands playing inv atleast in matchpoint , u check out stopers usually ending in 3nt when u gave ur opps extra information about ur hands , thats fine with hands who have a good alternative to 3nt (usually 5 of a minor) but with balanced hands this alternative isnt too good, and for that resson i prefer to bid 3nt directly on balanced and show stopers only when i feel there is a good chance that 5d will make and 3nt not, this doesnt come without cost cause p might have a nice unbalanced hand, but still i feel its better to bid NT on most balanced hands. 2. id bid 3sp on sayc, unhappy with it cause there is a good chance that 3nt should be played from my side, and all those KJ arent making the hand too good, but still its a bit too strong for 2sp or 2nt.

i agree, should return a dimond now. hoping declearer hand look something like: kXXX ---- AQXX KQTXX he will have to play the A of dimond and his best line imo is to play for the hearts and he will go down. You were right to mention its imp cause this declerer hand or any hand with only 5 clubs (with 6 clubs the game is cold) will noty bid like that in matchpoint.

I dont have an answer to your question' i dont know such a book. But i do think its a matter of a convention or an agreement, if you and your partner have an understanding to what your bids show then you both will have to use your general bridge judment and decide what to do, what im trying to say is that after all its come down to the convention you use and the general judment and not to a specific judment for the diffense vs weak NT. sure you (and i) would be better with a book, but we will be just fine without it as long as we know what our partner bid mean and have a good general bridge judgment.