Quantumcat

Um, 3D? Get to where you are willing to play as soon as is humanly possible.

Partner would have led a low spade from KQxx so declarer has five to the J-9. Declarer would have overcalled 3C if he had six, or five good ones, so probably partner has two club stoppers. Declarer would not bid 3NT being void in his partner's suit, so he should have eight tricks off the top: six hearts, a spade, the ace of clubs. His ninth would be the nine of spades if we played the ace and returned one so we'd better not do that. If he has the king of diamonds, he can force his own ninth trick so we'll assume he doesn't have it. He is left with very few points so he probably has 5 clubs. This is what he looks like: J9xxx x/x Jx AQ9x/x Say he has two hearts. We just have to avoid giving him the nine of spades, or a diamond trick. If we don't take the ace now, we'll never be able to cash it later because then we'd be giving him his ninth trick. We have to take it now. If we return a diamond, he can play low and force partner's king. Partner might return a heart but then declarer can force out out ace of diamonds and have another heart to claim his queen. The only thing that is left is a heart. Partner can return a diamond to our ace after winning a club, and we'll return a heart. His queen of diamonds is not yet set up but he has run out of hearts. (Assume declarer has the 76 etc of clubs so partner can't safely return a high club) If he has only one heart: If he cashes his hearts immediately, he will be stuck for discards. No matter what he does we can avoid giving him a trick. Declarer might trick us by not cashing his hearts while he's in dummy when he only has one heart. But partner will know this, because he has two. He can indicate this to us by cashing the king of diamonds before putting us in with the ace. This way there is NO WAY anybody would return a heart or a diamond, and a spade is the only other choice! Then declarer will go many down, but may be clapped on the back for a good try.

If you have both majors, or five spades, you can be weak. (With five spades you can pass 2♠ or bid 2♠ over 2♥) If you don't have spades, you have to have enough values to make an invitational 2NT or 3C (11 -12 HCP) Double means you are prepared for any response.

It helps if you are very social and move between all the different groups at break time, spending five to ten minutes talking with each group. And at dinner, you should always propose that you know the area well and there is a charming little restaurant only a 10 minute walk away (it's hard to get a walk if you are with a group for dinner and they want to eat at the venue). Also volunteering to help the directors is good, putting out boards, collecting scoreslips, and collecting boards etc. This will also get you into their good books if you ever get a director call against you later :-). If you are a youth player, and want to hang around the playing area in your matches off (so you can be present at score-ups) being a caddy for a session is good exercise, plus you get a bit of money.

1♣ 1♦ 1♥ 1♠ 1NT 2♣ 2♦ 2♥ 2♠ 2NT 3♣ 1♣ = 5+ clubs or 13-16 bal (1/2 NV) or 12-14 (elsewhere) 1♦ = 4+ hearts 1♥ = three card heart support or could be four if 13-14/12-13 1♠ = natural, and denies 5 hearts (any 2-level bid would be a transfer) 1NT = natural, 13-16/12-14 bal, three card hearts, not 4 spades 2♣ = puppet to 2♦, any invite or sign off in diamonds (not likely since he has hearts and spades) 2♦ = accepting puppet 2♥ = inviting game in a known moysian fit 2♠ = not accepting, would rather play in spade moysian 2NT = was interested in game in a heart moysian: I might have invented the spades in order to make it obvious I have only 4 hearts (2C [instead of 1S] - 2D[denies weak with 4 hearts] - 2H would be an invite with five hearts) 3♣ = I am very confused, but I have five clubs ... this is possibly a bad bid.

It makes lots of sense to play transfers after all interference of partner's 1-suit opening: you can make both negative free-bids and forcing bids at the same time with none of the drawbacks of negative free-bids but all of the benefits. And when you have a normal forcing bid, you get extra room, as well as the overcaller usually being on lead against the final contract. It also solves this problem, you can make your partner declarer with his queen of clubs :-)

You can play this: 2 ♥, 2♠ to play 2♣ puppet to 2♦, which is any invite 2♦ GF stayman or balanced with a 5 cd major, GF 2NT unbalanced with a 5 card major example auctions: 1NT 2♣ 2♦ 2♥ 2♠ 3♥ 4♥ - responder had 5 hearts and was invitational, opener 4 spades and 3 hearts 1NT 2♦ 2♠ 3♠ 4♠ - responder had 4 or more hearts and 3 spades, opener had 5. 1NT 2NT 3♣ 3♥ 3♠ 3NT - responder had 5 hearts and 4 or 5 diamonds, opener showed values in clubs and spades but not 3 hearts, which allowed responder to bid 3NT.

A system I play has these minor openings: in 1/2 NV: 1C 5+ clubs or 13-16 bal, 1D 5+ diamonds or 17-19 bal otherwise 1C 5+ clubs or 12-14 bal, 1D 5+ diamonds or 18-19 bal Other than that, pretty much just plain everyday 2/1. Reading through the ABF system regulations, it seems my system is red, because of a possibly short diamond which hardly ever happens! Am I misunderstanding? It is almost 100% natural. It seems silly to classify this with submarine openings and transfer openings and and forcing pass systems etc. Assuming I am right that it is red, is there any way to appeal before playing in a tournament to the director to let you put a green or blue sticker on it? Otherwise some opponents will get freaked out and want to know how to defend against your scary red system before realising it's even greener than their blue strong club system.

Has anyone ever read "Principle of Restriced Talent"? There are two hands in there where the bad guy gets to 3NT and goes off when he had a heart stopper (QTx) and the robot tells him his heart stopper was "too strong": it went low heart to ace, then a heart back. Then later the robot bids 3NT on a similar auction holding three small hearts, and it turns out the suit was blocked and he made: the stopper was "weak enough"! Although it was only a 2H opening, and the fact that it wasn't raised is probably relevant.

[hv=n=skq2haj6dqj7cq765&w=sj9843hq8d53cjt43&e=s5hk973dakt986c92&s=sat76ht542d42cak8]399|300|[/hv] In 2DX, declarer makes about 6 tricks, in 3NT, I can only see 8 tricks. If you give someone the jack of clubs so there are nine tricks, in favourable, you'll get 500 instead of 400. I'm sure the East hand is good enough that a few people might overcall unfavourable. If you don't know absolutely for sure that your contract is making, isn't it better to take a definite plus, anyway?

If you play penalty doubles, you can only double them when you have a stack in their suit, while if you play takeout doubles, you can penalise them also when you don't have a good fit, but you have the majority of the points. For instance, if you have KQ2 AJ6 QJ7 Q765 you opened 1NT, natural 2D overcall and your partner makes a takeout double, you can pass due to lack of good fit. But if he has to cue their suit to show a takeout double because you play penalty doubles, you have to play in a bit of a misfit. You might even have: 82 AK5 QJ983 AQ6 And you have to play in a misfitting 3NT instead of penalising. And if the 1NT opener tries to reopen when he can after 1NT (overcall) pass (pass), you'll rarely get to miss out on penalising them as responder. Playing penalty doubles, you gain in one case: where opener can't reopen and you have a trump stack. But you lose anytime your side doesn't have a good contract and neither of you has a trump stack (you can penalise instead of playing a misfit) and you can penalise when opener has a trump stack and responder has some strength and wants to act immediately. This is what a lot of people play after a direct overcall of 1NT: - Takeout doubles of the implied suit, takeout doubles of the suit bid if the actual suit is unknown, takeout doubles of the lower suit if 2 suits are known but their length is not, takeout doubles of the longer suit if length is known. - Bids from the next suit to 2S are non forcing - From 2NT to 3S are transfers (transfer to their suit is stayman), 3NT to play - 4-level jumps are natural slam tries with a void in their suit ("suit" determined in the same way as for takeout doubles) Further action by responder: -penalty if the suit is a different one than was doubled for takeout -takeout if the same suit that was originally doubled for takeout -takeout if he bid a suit and opener didn't get to bid -penalty if opener supported the suit bid or accepted the transfer You might like to agree on action by opener if responder's bid gets overcalled, too. -If a transfer gets overcalled, accepting at the 3 level shows 4-card support, passing denies it (e.g. 1NT (P) 2D (3C) 3H) and accepting at the 2-level shows 3-card support, passing denies it (e.g. 1NT (P) 2D (X) 2H). Redoubling in the previous situation shows a small doubleton heart, and thereafter all doubles by both people are penalties. -If stayman gets overcalled, bidding a major shows five cards, passing shows at least one four card major, and doubling shows no major (thereafter all doubles by both people are penalties).

Yes the relay being the weaker big balanced range is better because responder can bid a suit to play instead of completing the relay to show a yarborough that cannot make game opposite the weaker big balanced range. You could use 2NT to be either two suits to play in or to play in 3S. for instance, 2C 2D 2H 2S 2NT = 22-23 (if responder bids something other than 2S to show a yarborough, you'll pass) 2C 2D 2NT = 24-25 2C 2D 2H 2S 3NT = 26-27 (if responder bids something other than 2S to shows a yarborough, you'll still bid 3NT) 2C 2D 3NT = 28+

I think not claiming when it is really obvious how many tricks you have left, and playing them out slowly, is being rude to your opponents. Especially when you have one loser and you play out your winners to see if someone will be an idiot and throw the wrong thing. To anyone not an absolute beginner that notices you do that, this is an insult, it is saying you think they are stupid enough to throw their one winner. I think anybody is entitled to feel insulted if an opponent does this, unless the opponent is an absolute beginner themselves, and doesn't know the difference between winners and losers, in which case you can forgive them. I do my best to treat my opponents with respect, and this involves claiming when appropriate. I expect my opponents to do the same. Nothing annoys me more than opponents rejecting my claim (I only claim when it is just top cards on BBO, not on crossruffs or anything, to avoid rejections) especially when I am conceding. It means they are just rejecting automatically without looking at all! It also annoys me when opponents just play out their top cards one at a time very slowly, and then agonise at trick 13 whether to play the four of clubs, the four of clubs, or alternatively, the four of clubs. And as already mentioned, when they have one loser that can't go anywhere, and slowly play out their top cards hoping someone will be an idiot ... anyway I shall stop ranting and say in summary that not claiming when it is obvious is rude or insulting depending on the circumstances, as is rejecting claims on automatic pilot. Oh, and a good defence if you are playing with a random that rejects declarer's good claim that's not a concession: is to concede ALL of the remaining tricks. This teaches them a lesson about rejecting without looking!!

Oh, I see. Here is our method: XX = clubs or two suits not clubs 2♣ = clubs and another 2♦/♥/♠ to play pass = happy or nowhere to run (opener XXs with five card suit)

Hmm, four trumps, what else do you need for 3♠? Oh, look, a singleton too!

The problem with most of them is that you can't play in the suit bid, removing a possible auction. Better is to bid one of the suits that you have, maybe like this: over 1♣ 2♣ natural 2♦ diamonds and hearts 2♥ hearts and spades 2♠ spades 2NT = diamonds and spades over 1♦ 2♣, 2♦ natural 2♥ hearts and spades 2♠ spades 2NT = clubs and spades

Maybe double, then if pard bids a spade, bid 2♦ to say I was just checking if you had a trap pass. He won't say 2♠ or else he would have been good enough to bid 1♠ the first time.

I like these two-bids: In first and second seat 2♣ = clubs and spades, 4+/4+ 2♦ = diamonds and spades, 4+/4+ 2♥ = hearts and spades, 4+ 4+ 2♠ = weak two in spades, 5+ In 3rd seat 2♣ = clubs and hearts, 4+/4+ 2♦ = diamonds and hearts, 4+/4+ 2♥ = weak two in hearts, 5+ 2♠ = weak two in spades, 5+ The reason the anchor suit changes to hearts in 3rd seat is that you probably don't have a spade fit given partner couldn't open a weak two or 10-12 balanced. If you have only one suit you have to open 3 if it's a good enough suit or pass if it is not. So this is good for aggressive players who don't wait for the perfect hand before they open three-level pre-empts. I think 2♣ showing the majors is a bit of a waste: you never get to play in 2♣ or 2♦ after it. Playing the above you can play in all of the suits at the two level. I think most people playing a strong club use 2♣ as a natural 12-15 opening with clubs, so you couldn't use it as a weak bid. I use the above without any strong bid at matchpoints: the gains will exceed the losses. And if your openings allow responder to respond on a three-count, you may not even miss out at all. See my response to the weak NT question in the B/I forum.

I might open the last one 2♠ at unfavourable, but besides that, any excuse to open as high as possible is good enough for me. As to not opening 2♠ holding three hearts: the more you restrict your pre-empts, the easier it is for your opponents to play, bid and defend! When you open a pre-empt, you are already pretty much saying this isn't our hand so who cares what you have so long as there's no extreme disasters if you have to play it. A few days ago an old lady gave me a stormy lecture when I held four spades in my 3♥ opening, when she declared four spades and played the spade suit is a way that couldn't cope with me holding four, and she went down.

You can play transfers over every double that is not specifically penalising (you want to keep redouble for either to play or to run). The transfers go up to one less than raise of partner, which is a good raise, while natural raise is a worse raise. This puts any doubler on lead maybe without knowing his partner's suit, and you can also run to bad suits without sounding good and forcing. You can also play transfers over interference of a 1-suit opening. Then you can play the same system as over a 1C opening even if 1C wasn't opened, if you are still at the one-level when it gets back to responder. Also you can play in your long suit when you don't have a good hand without sounding good and forcing (just pass opener's acceptance of your transfer - he has to do something else than just bid your transfer if he can make game opposite a very weak hand with a six card suit).

At the Grand Slam club in Australia, there is a very good rating system. You get seeded/have an expected score calculated in every game you play depending on field strength and your partner's rating. If you do better, you get a plus added to your rating (only actually added at the end of the month) and if you do worse, you get a minus. If you play a field of rabbits and only get, say, 59% and win, you will get a huge minus if the rating system expected you to get 70%. So you can't improve your rating by beating up beginners. You also get no rating when you start. You have to have played a certain number of games with a rated partner (maybe about ten) before you get a rating, so the rating you start with is real, and is never artificially inflated (or else that would affect everyone who played against you). If anyone is interested this is its website: http://www.bridgecentral.com/

Here is what we do, it fits perfectly in with our openings. 1♦ = hearts 1♥ = spades 1♠ = no major or 16+ bal 1NT = GF clubs 2♣ = GF diamonds 2♦ = 4 diamonds 5 hearts less than invite 2♥ = 4 diamonds 5 spades less than invite 2♠ = 4+/4+ minors invite 2NT = (12)13-15 bal 3♣ = 4+/4+ minors 5-8 HCP Opener completes major suit transfer with 3 cards no matter what his HCP or shape, bids 2-major with 4-card support AND upper half of balanced range (i.e. 15-16 if bal range is 13-16) 3-major is 16-18 with four cards. Bidding anything else denies three card support. Then responder's second bid is a transfer. 1♠, 1NT natural 2♣ = signoff in diamonds or all invites (Every other bid is signoff or gameforce: if you have five of your major you show that before bidding other suits or else you show only four) 2♦ = hearts 2♥ = spades 2♠ = 2NT 15-16 not really slam interest 2NT = clubs 3♣ = diamonds 3♥/♠ to play (if that was the bid major) 3♥/♠ transfer to 3NT (non-bid major) If 1♠ was replied and opener bid 1NT: 2♣ = invite with one minor or 16+ five diamonds ->after opener bids 2♦: 2♥/♠ cues for diamonds, 2NT = generally 16+ five diamonds, 3♣/♦ invite with five. 2♦ = 16+ five hearts 2♥ = 16+ five spades 2♠ = 16+ no five card suit you want to mention ->then after opener bids 2NT, you can show your four card suits 2NT = 16+ five clubs

Is this a standard way to cheat? If you really want to make a penalty double, but your double is takeout, and your p may not make a takeout double? To make an insufficient bid, and then double?? I guess you'd only do it if you knew what contract you wanted to play aftr they ran and you didn't need your p's help to find out.

I don't understand why people feel the need to self-rate above their actual skill level. You'd think it would be better for people to be pleasantly surprised at your ability rather than disappointed in it. Another advantage to self-rating below your skill is that if you say you are a beginner when you're not, is that your false-cards will work. An expert won't think a beginner capable of making it and then fall into your trap. Another example could be this. Imagine defending a slam where you win the first trick and have to decide the next card. If declarer has a large range of hands compatible with the bidding, you'll be squeezed later. You have to knock out an entry so the squeeze can't work. But if declarer has one or two particular hands there's no squeeze, and you will give away the contract by leading that card. If you know the person is capable of executing the squeeze, there are more hands he can have where the squeeze happens so you'd try to stop it. But if declarer is a beginner you'd just do your best to not give away the contract since they probably will just cash 11 tricks and be disappointed when they realise there's no twelfth. So if you are not really a beginner you will make the hand!

I play something similar with some partners, here it is: non vul in first and second seat - 1NT 10-12 - 1C then 1NT = 13-16 - 1D then 1NT = 17-19 vul or 3rd seat - 1NT = 15-17 - 1C then 1NT = 12-14 - 1D then 1NT = 18-19 4th seat - 1NT = 15-17 - 1C then 1NT = 12-14 - 1D = 5 diamonds - 2D = 18-19 bal (responses as to 2NT opening, and 2H, 2S and 2NT to play) 1 minor then 3 minor is 16-18 single suited, 1 minor then 2NT is 19-20 single suited OR 19-20+ 4 card raise of partner's response after which partner can reject with a 3 count (this along with 18 counts only bidding to 1NT allows you to respond on three counts with majors) It is better to keep 1NT 10-12 to 1/2 seat because then there is more ambiguity for the opponents. If you do it when vul or in 3rd seat (when it is known your partner has less than ten points) you are guaranteed to get doubled no matter what the opponents hold. Also a benefit to playing 1C/1D then 1NT as specific balanced ranges means that if you play transfers over 1C, they come up twice as often (when diamonds are your better minor as well as when clubs are)