Yzerman

This is a pass. Despite adhering to many modern standards, i still maintain that double should have classic shape for minimal to intermediate takeout doubles and am very rigid in 2 level overcalls. This hand does not fit requirement of either overcall or double hence I pass. As a corrolary to this, I expect heavy balancing and prebalancing action by my partner on marginal hands with proper shape.

I am a very aggresive bidder and I have learned that being aggresive require the ability to bid two suiters just as that, two suiters. I am a big advocate of fit finding. Here is a great example; This is final round of Swiss team playing for win; Auction (starting with RHO) - P-P-1NT-2C-P-2D-P-2S-3C-X I held; 10x AJxx Kxxx Kxx I dont like to play penalty doubles in this position vs good opposition hence my double is strictly cooperative, meaning 'whatever reason you had for bidding in this auction please show tell me - and i am willing to defend 3c if that is right'. My partner had bid 2c capp on a very marginal 6412 hand with KQxxxx 109xx suits. Obviously we do very well in heart and the opps scored up 3C doubled. Even with one long suit, I still maintain its better to bid 2 suiters as 2 suiters.

Here is what i like to play over 1N-2C-2M; Baze - 1nt-2c-2h-3s= unbalanced slam try in hearts, 3nt asks 1nt-2c-2s-3h=unbalanced slam try in spades, 3nt asks 1nt-2c-2M=4c= kcb in M 1nt-2c-2M-4d= balanced slam try in M * Hence direct 4NT become quantitative. This work very nice and can be modified or tweaked to your liking (eg you can add kickback in for hearts, etc).

MATCHPOINTS SUCH!

After posting/replying/reading most of the posts on this site I have noticed that there is a continuation of a prevailing theme among bridge players, egomania. This is manifested on BBO as witnessed by the disproportianate amount of self-proclaimed "experts" to other skill levels. What is an "expert"? My definition of expert is as follows; * An expert is a person that has enough EXPERIENCE AND KNOWLEDGE of the game such that others can expand bridge ability from direct teaching/mentoring or kibitzing. So what are you if you are not an "expert"? If you are not an expert you fall into two categories, those that wish to learn more about the game and those that dont. There is nothing wrong with not wanting to better ones self at the game, those persons are generally social or kitchen players. I think that there should be another skill level within BBO, and that skill level is "student". This skill level would allow persons to not have to designate themselves as "novice" or "beginner" for the sake of being shunned, but rather can designate themselves as "students" denoting that they have an interest in learning more about the game. For this reason, a real "expert" should be willing to play with a "student" because a student has explicity expressed his desire to learn the game. Those that are just interested in playing socially, can denote themselves as the appropriate skill level. Then social players can play socially with everyone knowing that those players are not interested in "table lessons" or constructive criticism. This same logic should be applied to some extent on this bulletin board as well. There are obviously some persons here with the intent of expanding bridge knowledge in general, and others with the intent of promoting their own ego. Some persons use this site for constructive discussion and/or debate of bridge while others are here to prove they are right and others wrong. As an idea to perhaps promote those persons that are interested in making the game better, and acknowledging those that they have knowledge/experience to share (whether while playing or discussing); * Anonymous evaluation amongst members. This idea is simply food for though, knowing that such a system could be more harmful than helpful. One idea is to just allow members/peers to acknowledge persons that are worthy of watching or discussing bridge and NOT to allow negative feedback of others. * Why is this important (in my opinion)? Because there are people that are interested in learning but they dont know how to learn or who to approach. Perhaps they are uncomfortable asking a "star" or maybe they are not familiar with some of the more experienced/knowledgeable members. Example, have you ever witnessed someone make what appears to be an unordinary play/bid/defense but you feel uncomfortable asking other "why". Having a set of persons handy at any given time, might be an improved way of promoting bridge, promoting BBO, and to some extent promoting humility.

* The pschology and logic of declarer play! Thanks for the replies, this is fascinating play problem (at least I think so). My goal was to determine if the hand hand can always be made when LHO is 5xy4 shape. Inquiry has discovered that there is a technical solution to this hand against any distribution of RHO when LHO is 5xy4 with the exception of WORLD CLASS FALSE CARDING (this does not even consider other distributions). I never said or implied that this problem is trivial, quite the contrary. The declarer at the table is more than capable of finding in-depth lines of play however I stated that he did not give the hand much consideration (given that play of hand was over in 30 seconds). Furthermore, I wonder if a "world class" declarer would fine such a line of play. If they were able to find this line, would they be able to do this within a practical time limit. Hands like these make me feel VERY stupid. I have spent perhaps a total of 3-4 hours going over inquiries play line and find it easy to get lost in the cascade of conditional plays based upon opponents discards. This one I would not find at the table, and probably am incapable of accidently finding this line. Given the above, I would be interested in the logic applied to finding this solution. Specifically some questions below; * Assumption - When spades foul, hand require squeeze. Of the "advanced" to "expert" players I have first discussed with, EACH of them opted for the club finesse even after considering the squeeze option(s). a) How did you "know" that playing low club is best? (this is very intriguing AND after careful analysis 100% the right play - at least @ imps). :P Have you a previuos experience with this type of problem (double squeeze possibilities with entry problems - solution concede club), or is this an aquired skill (via reading), or is this just natural ability? c) How were you able to determine which discards RHO makes determines which red suit to cross to dummy with? The in-depth analysis of discards to hand patterns is time consuming (to say the least), is this really practical? Are there people in this world that can do this @ table (if so amazing)? d) This hand is fascinating because of the combination of solutions depending on discards and dynamics of card play. Is there any fast and easy rule to identify this type of problem? (a) simple squeeze, (B) guard squeeze, © non-simultaneous double squeeze, (d) progressive/compound squeeze. e) So you have found the solution to the problem in a reasonable amount of time at the table, how the #@$% to execute the solution? (very easy to get lost in your own logic) ******************************************* Conclusion - Bridge is a game of never ending learning and accumulation of experience and bridge knowledge.

I just watched a pretty neat hand played as I kibitzed. Declarer is a solid player as are the other three players at the table. The result of deal in question was 6N down 1. In my opinion declarer did not give much thought to hand and played on "auto-pilot". After hand was over, the opps also said that hand requires double dummy play. The dummy player and myself think otherwise. Play the hand as the bottom hand is the declarers hand and top hand is dummy; - Auction is irrelevant QJxxx K9x KJx xx AK A10xx Axx AKJ10 LHO leads the 10 of spade to your King. When you cash second high spade RHO shows out. How to proceed from here (obviously the club hook loses or this would not be a problem). As you cash clubs you find that LHO started with 4 clubs. How to proceed? * You may elect not to cash the 4th club from hand if you find it necassary to work another suit before finding the club distribution * The hand can always be made when LHO has 4 clubs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Additional "stuff": * If someone has the time and energy perhaps they could analyze the hand when LHO has 3 clubs, and 2 clubs. * Is there a better line of play from trick 2 forward? maybe find a better or optimal line of play from the start.

Does anyone have the full list BART responses. I play this with many partners, however I am not sure if we utililize the convention to its fullest. Below is what I use; * Hand types for BART 2D relay; a) any hand with 5 hearts :) any hand with 6+ diamonds (less than invite) c) Hand with 9+ red cards, not willing to bid 2S or pass 1S-1N-2C-2D Openers response; 2H = 3 hearts, minimum hand (maybe honor-x) 2S = Deny 3 hearts, minimum (may not have 6 spades) 2N = Decent opener, not 3 hearts (15-17 hcp) 3C = 5/5 in blacks (GOOD hand) 3D = Max heart raise (typically 5314 good 16 or better) 3H = (if exist) 3S = " 3N = " 4C = " 4D = " 4H = " * What other hand types can BART be used for. Since BART is a forcing bid, can this relay be used for other hand types or a temporizing bid.

See my posting in Advanced section titled; - Requirements for Rebids After (1M-1N) - Between inquiry and myself it might make some sense. Once partner partner bids 1NT he shoud strive to make a second bid. So only under extreme circumstances does your partner pass 2m. Below are some criteria (consistent with other thread) that I abide by; Passable 1M-1N-2m hands after 1NT (forcing) - 6-7 points and no 9 card fit and no 7 card major fit 8-9 points and extreme non-fitting hands In both cases above, I would not worry about missing game with 17 hcp opposite 9 hcp when hands are non-fitting. The values are marginal and tricks will be hard to come by (you may even be at an advantage to those in 3NT by playing in 4-3 minor fit @ 2 level - you could be +). * Dont want to sound like wussy, I can overbid with the best of them, but only with fit and 'good' cards. Some Example (after 1S-2N-2C) Rebids - xx AJxx xxxx Qxx (Bid 2S) xx AJxx xxx Qxxx (BID 2S - too many people pass) x AJxx Jxxx Qxxx (Pass) x QJxx KJxx Qxxx (Pass - Bad cards) x KQxx K109x J10xx (Bid 2N - Good cards and positional) x KQxx Kxx J10xxx (Bid 3C - 8/9 cd fit with 9 hcp) x Jxxx xxx KQxxx (Pass) * x Qxxx xxx KQxxx (Despite criteria, I would bid 3C) x Kxxx xxx KQxxx (Bid 3C - 8/9 cd fit with 8 hcp) * I saw a quote here one time by a member as such; "Bridge is not a game of rigid rules, being flexible and allowing room for judgement within a set of system rules is paramount to winning bridge".

YES! YES! YES! - Always Q from QJx (see below) The only exception to this rule is where your side has been forced to break a suit holding QJx in one hand and declarer has put off play in this suit (protecting honor holding from honor-10x(x) in dummy). Forget the Rusinow for now this generally does not apply in middle of hand. IF you happen to be playing with a partner that does this, IMMEDIATELY leave the table. This person probably does not play partnership bridge and gets his/her kicks out of fooling everyone at the table (another example is someone leading the 10 from KQJ10 - fourth best) OR has no understanding of the game. Dont argue with this person, and dont ask why because you will not get a legit answer.

I am 100% in agreement with 2over1 on this treatment. IMHO, the main reason for rebidding a 5 card major is for auction CAPTAINCY. The rebid of the major is used as a temporizing bid in which the auction has no clear cut direction at that point. Here are a few things that my regular partner and I play(mentioned earlier); a) NEVER give a free raise of a major on xxx or honor-x after rebid of 2M in a 2/1 auction. B) ALWAYS raise that major immediately if that major will be the trump suit (and satisfies (a)). c) Use 2NT as a tool to bide time and temporiize (Partner did not rebid NT for a reason). Use this as a tool to further describe the openers hand.

Hi Kongo, This is one the most common problems among partnerships (especially new partnerships). Here are a few ways to play puppet that i am aware of; a) 1N-2C - Obviously substitute puppet for regular; B) 1N-3C - Some play 3c as game forcing puppet; It is my opinion that option (a) does not reward you a return on your risk of giving up reglar stayman. In case a, you lose the ability to bid "garbage stayman", and in some cases "invitational stayman". It is my opinion that option (B) has some merit. Depending on your partnership agreements for 3 level bids after opening a strong NT. You may have the ability to use 3C for this and keep the 3 level structure relatively intact. Other Methods: This does not apply to the spade suit however some play that after a 1H opener, 1NT and 1S are interchanged (1S=forcing NT allowing 1NT, and 1N=spades). I do not play this, however those that do swear by it. This is my preference: Here is common 2/1 treament for balanced hands with majors (where 1N is forcing); 1M-1N-2N = 17+/19 balanced (good 17 will do) 1M-1N-2m-2M-2N = 15+/17- *1M-1N-3N = Running spade suit (AKQxxx is min), hand has 7 1/2 + tricks. *This bid is GROSSLY abused. 3N should be the hand I have mentioned above, then the responder can pull 3N to 4S on appropriate hands.

For anyone that may be interested, inquiry and myself will be practicing in the partnership bidding room at the following time; Friday, April 4th @ 5:00 pm EST Please feel free to drop in and watch, participate, ask questions or just to satisfy some curiosity. Use the hyperlink in the first post of this thread for RKC notes. * If there is enough curiosity/participation, inquiry (and myself - with him leading theway) has offered to put together some material to facilitate learning.

* This is GOOD STUFF * For years I have played RKC asking bids but never studied all of the bids. Then recently I replied to a post in the Advanced section titled "Queen Ask" - please read. To make a long story short, I found a GREAT website that details Kantors RKC structure. It is a little overwhelming at first (20 chapters/sections), but having played most of it, I will say that it is logical and somewhat natural. Here is the link to the Website. http://www.kantarbridge.com/rkb.htm Personally I would like to master this RKC structure and am looking for person(s) that would like to do the same. Here are some ideas I had; 1) Practice with contrainsts in partnership bidding 2) If enough people, have scheduled "chat" sessions If you are interested you can leave me a message here, at BBO (leave message for), or send me an email (michael_lucy@hotmail.com).

J9653 5 AK942 95 AK2 QJ42 753 AKQ WEst lead 7 of Heart (4th best) and East take with the Ace to play 10 of H. 3 scenarios; a) West led from 4 hearts (unlikely - given bidding) :P West led from 5 hearts c) West led from 6 hearts * In all cases RHO holds the remainder of the hcp. If (a), the East hand has =>4 clubs and 4 hearts, and a finite number of diamond/spades. Regardless I duck at trick 2 and the defense will clear the heart suit. I cash the AK and a spade and claim (East is known to have SQ, DJ, and QJ from biddingand cant have 4 spades) with 3S, 1H, 2D, 3C tricks. If (B) duck the second heart. East will continue low heart and the defense clears the heart suit. East is know to have 3 hearts and => 4 clubs. In all cases East holds the remainder of the high cards. I am in hand with a winning heart and play a diamond toward dummy use make avoidance play against the West hand until East is forced to win a high honor (while still maintaing the A or K of diamonds in dummy). At this point, you are guaranteed to make contract (If 4 diamond in East then doubleton SQ, If 3 diamonds in East then 4 diamond tricks). If ©, East will retain the lead at trick 3 and I assume East switches to club. I win the club and continue hearts and East is forced to discard twice (assuming West wins heart and continues club - best defense). Whatever discards the contract is guaranteed by using the avoidance in diamond suit.

Kantars book discusses RKC and Queen ask bids looking at the queen. There are some scenarios in which you use an artificial queen ask to set up a 3rd round control ask of a side suit. * After a queen ask AND the asker bids again when responder denies trump Q, this becomes a 3rd round control ask in the suit bid (asker had opportunity to ask for kings, hence this is 3rd control ask); Asking Bids (Examples, trump suit is hearts): 5s=Asking for 3rd spade control 5n=Asking for specific queens (up the line) 6c=Asking for 3rd club control 6d=Asking for 3rd diamond control 6h=Asking for 3rd heart control Responses: 1. A return to the cheapest possible level of the agreed suit denies the queen. 2. Bidding a new suit shows the queen plus the king of the bid suit. 3. Bidding 5NT shows the queen, denies a side suit king, but shows a significant extra. That extra could be the queen of partner's first bid suit, the queen of your own first bid suit or possibly extra unknown trump length. *4. Adjunct - Jumping to 7 of trump suit is doubleton. * Showing side kings along with side queens is very important, this will help partner judge whether to play suit contract or NT. Some examples: (hearts trump AND RKC bidder has the HQ) - a. 4n-5c-5d-5h-6c-7h b. 4n-5c-5d-5h-6c-6n-7h c. 4n-5c-5d-5h-5n-6d-6h d. 4n-5c-5d-5h-6c-6d-7h Discussion(s) - a. This auction is a simple RKC auction in which the RKC bidder asks for the trump queen with 5d. The responder obviously does not have it and retreats to 5h. Asker the BIDS AGAIN, where 6c asks for 3rd club control and responder jump to 7H which promise doubleton club and no biddable king. b. Same as (a) with the exception this promise the Queen of suit (CQ and no biddable king), but another important card. c. Specific Queen ask. Same rules apply as king ask. Responder has the Queen of diamonds, and no Queen of clubs. d. Responder was asked for 3rd club control and promised the DK (6d). * Here is good website as an introduction; http://www.kantarbridge.com/RKB.htm

My apologies for the mistake on the first go around, I was totally out to lunch. Your solution is 100% correct. Furthermore, we (my partner and i) have recited this hand to about 50 people and only 2 have immediately solved it. FYI - I went down on this hand in real life however I have applied this safety play (or similar) twice in the last 6 months, so is fairly frequent.

Here is neat play hand (real life hand); Vulnerable Slam Imps Contract=6H xxx Kxxx - AKQ10xx AKx AJ109 J9xx Jx Played from the bottom hand on DA lead. Assume hearts can be no worse than 4-1 (hand not makable on 5-0). Find line that succeeds against 3-2 or 4-1 hearts in either hand.

Inquiry asked to me how I would play this hand if club hook wins; AK7 J7652 T AJ83 632 AK AQ842 Q62 ************************************** Cash AK of hearts (tricks 1 and 2) and immediately play club to the Jack; First Scenario (If club hook wins). Here are the permutations; * These assume hearts 4/2 and diamonds 5/2 * Cash the Ace of clubs (a) if king falls I exit a small spade and this is hand thus far; LHO=4252, RHO=3424 If RHO win he must exit diamond for a chance to defeat (club or spade exit allow easy end play in D suit, cashing HQ gives me 10 tricks and to have a chance) so I duck this diamond. Best LHO can do is exit spade, at this point I cash two high spades in dummy, play club to hand and exit the DQ. LHO is end played into giving me my 9th trick (2S, 2H, 3C, 2D). (:) if CK does not appear, I exit club. Here are the permutations when LHO has Kxx or Kxxx clubs; LHO=2254, 3253 When LHO is 2254 and assuming they cash two high clubs the must exit spade. Win the spade, cash a second spade and pass the 10 of diamonds. LHO will be enplayed into giving you 3 diamonds tricks, win second diamond and exit low diamond (2S, 2H, 3D, 3C). When LHO is 3253 I am up to 8 tricks and need a 9th (2S, 2H, 1D, 3C). LHO does best by exiting spade, if the exit is SQ then I duck otherwise I win the trick (if SQ exit duck cash black winners and pass diamond). While in dummy I cash the 13th club and RHO must discard he MUST discard a spade (H discard obviously wrong and D discard allows you to win first D by RHO for they have no more D exits). After 13th club and spade discard by LHO I cash high spade and exit spade. If LHO wins trick he is end played in diamond suit, if RHO win he can cash high heart and must exit diamond which I duck and LHO end played in to giving me a second diamond. In all of these cases I end up with 2S, 2H, 2D, and 3C. * Removing the assumptions that LHO has 2 hearts and 5 diamonds (known diamond length, 5 +), does this line work on other distributions. I will analyze these distributions later. LHO=1453, 1354, 3262, 2263, 2362

How about raising of fourth suit? Some people play this shows extra values other play it is simply bidding out pattern. I suppose the prototype for raising fourth suit is 1d-1s-2c-2h(fsf)-3h. This auction is quite frequent and troublesome without discussing it beforehand. ****************************************** Having said that, I have a question regarding another deal; Axx x KQJ109 AQxx The auction proceed (I open bidding, unopposed) - 1d-1h-2c-2s You can argue the merits of bidding 3C with this hand, however I refuse to bid 1D-3C with singleton in partners suit and no clear cut direction on hand. What would you bid and why after 2s (fsf)? FYI - I have polled about 20 experts on this hand, and the majority are split between two bids. ****************************************** At the table, I bid 3s and then partner bid 5h. Whatever this is asking/telling I was willing to cooperate and I bid 5s, partner bid 5n, I bid 6c and he bid 7h. This was not the best contract (7d was optimal and 7n was better than 7h, 7n will make on squeeze when 7h goes down). His hand - Jx AKQxxx Axx Kx

Thanks for reply on the disaster auction. Here is my take on the auction. a) Having bid 2S THEN 3N this I do not have 5 hearts because with 8 card heart fit playing 3N is NUTS. :) Having bid 3N in this auction when partner has single or void spade, I must have wasted S values (S suit => 2 stops). c) Having bid 2S then retreat to 3N (with 2 spades stope), I must have some undisclosed feature in hand otherwise I would make noise in hearts, raise m suit OR NOT bid and just bid 3N direct. d) Having said all that, after 4C (which is last train "ish") whatever I bid becomes my undisclosed feature hence this is our authentic fit, this is NOT cue bid w/heart suit as trump. * With that explanation, I think my correct bid is 5D after 4C. I will let partner work out my bidding (wasted S values, 4 hearts (not good) and bad trumps (diamonds).

In the beginner/intermediate section this topic is discussed. I thought it would be beneficial to divulge into the theory of fsf and how different systems and conventions effect fsf, there are some 'neat' things to debate. 1) What is fourth suit forcing and why is it important? 2) What is the difference between fsf using strong club and 2/1 based system where 1d/1h/1s are limited? 3) What if you play a Walsh style response to 1c? 4) What if you 1c-1h-1s as an unbalanced hand? 5) Fourth suit forcing in KS type systems? *************************************** 1) You might think this is dumb however I have ran across a many "experts" that do not entirely understand fsf (if not understand at all). Fsf can be defined as a tool to (a) differentiate forcing/invitational auctions, (:) probe for "direction" of hand, and © determine auction captaincy in slam auctions. 2) I have had some nightmarish auctions in the past if this is not specifically discussed. When playing strong club now, I assume under all circumstances that fsf is game force. 3) This is the point that I am willing to discuss and debate until the cows come home. I have a lot of experience playing and experimenting with Walsh style auctions. Some of the auctions vastly differ from standard"ish" auction. The best example is 1c-1d-1h-1s should be fsf playing walsh and creates a force to => 2nt. Hence 1c-1d-1h-2s is game forcing and "pictureesque". 4) Since responder has the luxury of knowing an extra piece of information regarding openers hand, how does this effect fsf auctions? 5) KS generally apply reverse principles. If opener can retreat to responders suit and not be forced to bid at new level, than auction is invitational, other game force. *************************************** Given the above, I have a hand from the other day in which we (new partnership, partner is EXCELLENT player) had a fourth suit forcing disaster. After the hand was over, I naturally felt as though the blame should be assigned on myself but I would like some input. Hand- AQxx A109x 10xxx x Auction (partner open/unopposed and we have no agreements on reverse auction - 1st time we play) - 1c-1h-2d-2s(me)-3h-3n-4c-4d-5n-6d-6h At the crucial point of the auction (after 2d reverse) I had to make a decision between 2s (fsf) and 3d (disclose fit). In the post mortem I wish I would have judged to bid 3d. Partner thought I promise 5 hearts on this auction however I would agree except that after 3H I bid 3N hence if it was my intention to play hearts why would I bid 3N? Few questions; a) What would you think meaning of 2S then 3N is on this auction(with no agreements)? B) Having bid 3N, what is 4D after partner bids 4C? * Obviously with reverse agreements this is not a problem, but was wondering what the other players would do with my hand without agreements playing with a new partner that is a REAL expert.*

One of my own personal criteria for preempt (I even apply this in 3rd chair) is the following; 1) Constructive 2 Level Preempts - Preemptive in the suit I bid meaning that I have a good reason to introduce this suit at 2 level (good suit as defined by Mahmood/Rosenberg ... a suit that CAN (not must) play for no more than 2 losers (KJ98xx, Q1098xx, etc) opposite a singleton). 2) 2 level preempt are NOT to include 3 or more outside controls as follows; 2a) Side Ace and Side King, or 2b) Side Ace and singleton, 3c) Side King and void and generally speaking 4d) will not have two side kings. 3) NEVER contains four of other major in 1st/2nd seat and NEVER Jxxx or better 3rd. I personally like this approach for many reasons. I would prefer to succeed with constructive tactics rather than destructive tactics. I would like partner to trust that I will have a generically consistent hand type when I open 2 level preempts. Consideration of losing trick count (7-9 losers). I am a little flexible depending on vulnerability however I try and stick with a reasonable limit.

I really like this hand because it demonstrates that bridge is more than a game of percentages and technical ability. Table presence and table feel are just as important. Some assumptions must be made before proceeding into analysis; (a) Inference #1, non-trump lead (:) Inference #2, defense is attacking dummies suit I do not want to type the remainder of the solution for the sake of letting someone else have the pleasure of being the first to solve problem. But I thought that it was a neat deal to emphasize a few things. * Moral(s) of story: (a) It is good to understand "standard" defensive tactics not only for sake of defending, but for sake of declaring when opps do something non-standard. (:) Table feel and table presence are crucial parts of being a successful player. Some people are born with it, others aquire it but few would argue against its necessity.

Okay, you open another can of worms. Given the overcall strategy of a 2/1 system, for the auction 1D-3C what BEST fits into the general 2/1 approach? I have tried alot of different conventions/treatments, and below I have listed in what order my preference is (using frequency, overall utility, and how well complement 2/1 sytsem); a) Criss-Cross ;) Fit Jump c) Preempt d) Invite f) Strong What do you think? And are there others I am leaving out? * Why I like Criss-Cross the most? Simple answer, I LOVE the ability to bid 3d (preempt), 2d(unconditional GF), and 3c (diamond limit). This structure fits best in a 2/1 weak NT system although still very effective with 2/1 strong NT. The 3c limit is very frequent, fits nicely, and the overall utility is described below; When partner opens 1D playing weak NT that hand can ONLY be one of three general hands; a) Weak hand with diamonds :) Strong hand with diamonds c) Strong NT In all cases 3c immediately puts the opener into the drivers seat and is preemptive in nature when opener has hand (a).