robert2734

4 ♦ and be worried its an underbid. My second choice is 5 ♦ .

I was about to ask if you use ACBLscore but I can see you aren't from America. Software that does this exists. Do you use a wireless device that transmits the results to a central computer?

Not a very good game either. If the openning bidder has all the clubs, all the diamonds, the KQ of spades could be offside. If the openning bidder has all the clubs, all the spades, the ace of diamonds could be offside. And you're dead if the hearts are 3-0 assuming you're missing QTx. Me and my partners miss enough ice cold games, we don't have to affix responsibility for missing the 60% games. Still, nothing wrong with agreeing on the strongest hand you can preempt.

There is no offending side. Everyone is equally responsible for watching the dummy revoke in front of him and doing nothing. We can have the director restore equity i. e. tell you how many tricks you should have taken but I don't know what we need players for.

Rule 64B3. If the defenders let him do it it lives. No rectification.

On a hand that will make 5 or 7 depending on a finesse, shouldn't you try to be in 5 or 7? What is the theoric reason for trying to play in 6?

There's no penalty if the dummy revokes. All three (I guess four) players are equally responsible for irregularities in the dummy. I don't have my rule book handy but it seems like the defenders have a duty to ensure the dummy has the proper number of cards correctly sorted.

If I was losing or the underdog in the match I'd blast 7 ♣ .

Story time. Partner opens a precision 1C showing 16+ points and I had 21 points 5-3-3-2 so I respond 7NT. Buddy asked me why I didn't ask for kings and I said I thought I could make 7NT off a king. My five card suit, partner's four card suit, three card suit and the ace in the suit we are missing a king. There are a couple of flaws with that argument but the point is 7NT is at worst on a finesse. If you take the toppost hand and replace the ♠ king with the ♠ ace, 7NT isn't on a finesse. It's cold.

If you give partner ♠ KQJxxx ♥ xx ♦ xx ♣ xxx , you are down 800 in five spades and they have a grand. You don't want to push them to six. You rather settle for minus 640 or whatever.

Win, ace king ♦ , ace king ♠ , small spade. If east produces the queen you have to ruff and hope it holds. If east ruffs you can throw your club and if east pitches, you ruff go back to the dummy with the king ♥ and throw the club on the next spade. Of course if the queen ♦ drops doubleton (25% chance) you make an overtrick if the spades are 3-2.

Don't know me. Gonna play goldrush tuesday wednesday.

I don't think you can make it unless LHO has 2 spades 5 hearts 1 diamond and 5 clubs. So cash AK of spades, ruff a spade (high), king of clubs pitching a heart. LHO wins but has no trump left. Win any return, ruff a spade, queen of clubs pitching a heart. heart to your hand, draw trump and a high heart at the end. If you try to ruff hearts on the board, RHO will pitch a club and later ruff your queen of clubs.

Bidding "three over three" , bidding at the three level when the opponents are already at the three level, with an eight card fit, is anti-law. I'm not sure how partner would know three hearts is right. In any case, the one thing I won't do is defend an undoubled contract when we have a majority of the points. Of course I've been -470 before but I won't get many matchpoints for -110 anyhow. So mister orange county, you going to the long beach regional?

And if you double, what do you lead? I'll double at matchpoints because I don't expect any matchpoints for -110 anyhow. So -470 is no different.

Duck a spade. Win the continuation. Unblock ♦ KQ. If the suit is 5-1 I have to abandon it and take the club finesse. If everybody follows, I go to the board with the ♣ ace and cash the ♦ ace. If everybody follows, I have eleven tricks and east in a show up squeeze. I cash my red tricks and then lead a club to my hand. When east follows low, his last card is a spade honor. If east has the fourth diamond, I take the club finesse and hope the fourth club sets up. If west has the fourth diamond, I let him have it. Win the heart return and I have the show up squeeze.

Q1: Penalty doubles are alerted only if it is an unusual meaning for the bid. i. e. most people play that bid as not a penalty double. Q2: Never alert any bid where the explanation is we don't have an agreement. It's possible the opponents asks what a bid means, the correct explanation of the partnership agreement could be we don't have one.

In defense of "experts". I find very few people who call themselves experts or advanced are completely clueless the way many people who call themselves beginners or intermediate. A few are actually good at this game although most aren't that either. The issue came up whether these self-descriptions are useful. I'll try a no alert needed convention like michaels or unusual with a partner that calls himself an expert. I find people self-labelled beginner or intermediate usually don't recognize it.

You can run a web movement with 16 tables. Everyone plays the same 26 boards. You only play 13 of the 16 pairs but that can't be helped.

Support with support. Bid 4 ♠ the first time. Over 4 ♦ , you can take the sure profit by doubling or bid 4 ♠ which may not make. My guess is 4 ♠.

If north had ♠ Q653 than the jack is the only card that sets the contract. Since north has ♠ K653 than the jack is the only card that does not instantly beat the contract and then only if north covers to try to beat it two. Interesting.

Playing a spade to the ace, you can go down extra tricks in a normal contract.

3 ♦ asking partner to return a club if he ruffs.

encourage because you want partner to please continue hearts if/when he gets in. Lead didn't cost a trick; they're entitled to two hearts anywayz.