Best Bid at Rubber, MPs or IMPs

[hrothgar]

And just by the way the OP clearly shows that the 2C bid was made in the FIRST SEAT.

 

You need to learn the difference between an analogy and a claim

[Winstonm]

Rubber bridge is an odd mixture of aggression and safety. Going for numbers is not advised. Slight overbidding - expecting less than perfect defense - usually works. Knowing your opponents is priceless.

 

All that said, I would bid 4C only, and depending on opponents that may well be my limit. When you hold unbalanced length, quite often the hand play better in the long suit - a 7-1 fit can play better than a 5-3.

 

PS: This hand looks like the one defended by Wolfe/Hamman against Cohen/Bergen at imps. Bergen landed in 5D doubled and went for -800 against spectacular defense by Hamman.

[msjennifer]

Rubber bridge is an odd mixture of aggression and safety. Going for numbers is not advised. Slight overbidding - expecting less than perfect defense - usually works. Knowing your opponents is priceless.

 

All that said, I would bid 4C only, and depending on opponents that may well be my limit. When you hold unbalanced length, quite often the hand play better in the long suit - a 7-1 fit can play better than a 5-3.

 

PS: This hand looks like the one defended by Wolfe/Hamman against Cohen/Bergen at imps. Bergen landed in 5D doubled and went for -800 against spectacular defense by Hamman.

OH NO! Then I PASS.

[rmnka447]

At MPs and IMPs, I'm bidding 5 ♣ and let them try to sort out which major to bid.

 

At rubber bridge, I'd try 4 ♣. The key is to make them play up a level or 2 from comfortably making a part score to win the rubber. But then again you don't want to get set for much -- since going set still doesn't the below the line score and they are likely to still win the rubber. (They'll still have 40 on below the line toward game if you are set.)

 

4 ♣ is likely set only one with one useful card in partner's hand. OTOH, they have to bid game in a major to finish the rubber on this hand. With partner's hand still unlimited, any way you can push the opponent's up might be useful.

[Winstonm]

OH NO! Then I PASS.

 

Then you lose.

[cherdano]

What is the rubber equity of being game + 40? In other words, how many points is it worth preventing them from winning the rubber now? Maybe they are 65% favourites to win this rubber? If so, they are up 65% of 700, appoximately 450, and anything down more than 250 + their contract value is a only a good result if it's an advance safe against their slam. In other words, if we figure they won't bid slam, we shouldn't be saving for 500.

 

I've only played rubber bridge when I'd just started to learn bridge so really I have no idea. But still - it seems too wimpish to sell out below the 5-level. We might just be down one, we might push them to 5M-1, and -300 versus their +120/150 plus rubber bons is still a good investment.

So for me it's between the scientific route (4C followed by 4N - this seems clearly better than the plan 3C->4N as the latter leaves more room for slam exploration), or just bashing 5C (who knows? I might be scoring up 5CX if partner turns up with an ace and LHO is happy to take the money with his two-suiter, instead of guessing the strain at the 5-level or forcing to the 6-level).