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1N Matchpoints


  

16 members have voted

  1. 1. What Plan

    • Play 3 round of Spades, when they are 2 with west, 4 with east, knock out east's winning spade
    • Play 3 round of Spades, when they are 2/4, play A club, club up
      0
    • Play A club, club up
    • Play low club to Q
    • Spade to K, club to 9
      0
    • Other


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I really suck bad at MP, obviously this hand is simple at Imp

 

[hv=pc=n&s=sk3hj65da82cq7653&n=saq654ha4dt74ca94&d=w&v=n&b=12&a=p1sp1nppp]266|200[/hv]

 

lead: 10

 

assuming winning the first trick, i can't see any particular reason why not?? and besides if u duck they just continue hearts anyway, what's the best plan?

 

many thanks

 

Eagles

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A good illustrative hand, eagles. I'm trying to work out the percentage plays in my head and its getting the better of me so far. Usual plan in NT is trying to set up winners in your longest suit so a to the Q feels the right move: whether it is, is another matter!

 

p.s. I prefer IMPs too

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My thoughts:

(1) I may as well take trick 1. I don't want a diamond switch.

(2) I want to play clubs whilst I still have controls in the other two suits. Spades can wait.

(3) Dropping a singleton king of clubs is a long-shot and won't help us set up clubs, so I should just play a club towards the queen and retain the stopper. If it loses to west's king, they are likely to run three or four more hearts and we fall back on trying for the spade drop. East might duck a round of clubs - in that case I switch to spades. If East rises with the king on a club I have two chances now of either black suit breaking after they cash their heart winners.

[Note: it must be worse to play for the drop in spades at trick 2 - if it fails, you will lose the spade as well as at least one club and the hearts].

 

I feel that many other pairs might be in 3NT after upgrading the North hand to a 15 count (and opening a strong 1NT or rebidding NT after a 1 opening if playing a weak NT). If you think that this is likely, you don't want there to be a play for 9 tricks so you might as well play for lines to make 8 tricks (or even 7 depending how the defenders play to the early tricks).

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I could play spades and if I have to lose one hope to throw them in later for a lead away from the club King but I can't cash the last spade for that assuming a diamond shift after the hearts.

 

I make 1nt but if much of the field plays 1nt forcing they will play in 2 making or plus one most often so plan B.

 

I think my best shot in that case is Ace and another club and in a run of the mill field easts will fly with the King if they have it to play more hearts, especially if the spades split 3-3. Therefore if rho plays low I may well duck and cheer for Kx on my left.

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I feel that many other pairs might be in 3NT after upgrading the North hand to a 15 count (and opening a strong 1NT or rebidding NT after a 1 opening if playing a weak NT).

 

Those who play strong NT are likely to be in 3NT however it goes - if they open 1 it is improbable they will pass 1NT here, even if they don't play it as forcing or semi-forcing.

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I voted for other mainly because I could not care less which opp had 4 spades if they broke 42. I would knock out the 4th spade and be happy making 1n where anyone in a spade contract has at best a 5050 shot at making 2 spades and beating our score. IF I needed a top to win a tourney I would go after clubs at trick 2 via the ace and another toward the Q and probably ducking (hoping for Kx in lho) if rho plays small to the 2nc club. I just do not see much reason here to go for broke when normally I expect a decent score just for making 1n an if by chance spades break 33 I can still go try for my max by playing on clubs and remember the opps would have to pitch on those spades before seeing me play on clubs which might be of huge benefit for me.
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You have to play it for +120. If you're cold for 150, then you're getting a bad board against those people who are in 3NT. Similarly, if you are going +90 then you are losing out to the people who bid:

 

1 1NT

2 3

P

 

Play for something like KJTx behind the queen and spades 3-3.

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Hearts are more likely to be 5-3 than 4-4.

Play spades 3-3: = 8 tricks 9 if lucky

If spades 4-2: = 7 tricks

 

Play up to K clubs and clubs 3-2:

If K onside I make 8 tricks or 9 if East plays low AND spades 3-3 otherwise 8

If K offside then if spades 4-2 I make 6 tricks (opps cash 4 hearts and switch to a diamond) If spades 3-3 then I make 8 tricks

 

Close decision. I think just play off the spades

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Interesting hand.

 

Round these parts, a lot will respond 2♣️, and the contract will be 2NT after a weak reverse. Anyone in 3NT needs their heads examined - marginal games at MPs are a bad proposition. So, we can forget about whether or not you can make 9 tricks.

 

The issue is whether you can make 8 and match those having to make it in 2NT.

 

7 tricks are virtually certain assuming ♠️ no worse than 4/2 and ❤️ no worse than 5/3.

 

You increase your chances of 8 by winning ❤️A and then small to ♣️Q first. If ♠️ are right, they’re always right.

 

A hand which demonstrates why some consider MPs the greatest test in Bridge. Thanks for posting.

 

D.

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Anyone in 3NT needs their heads examined - marginal games at MPs are a bad proposition. So, we can forget about whether or not you can make 9 tricks.

 

I would not be at all surprised to see a fair number of 1N - 3N auctions

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If clubs and spades are both wrong, I can go down by starting clubs first. If I start spades, as long as they are no worse than 4-2 I always make and still have the chance for overtricks.

 

Note: I would duck the heart and try the affect of playing the J on the second heart, as if holding QJx. Not that it will accomplish anything on this deal but it is always good to screw with the opponents' heads. :P

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I would not be at all surprised to see a fair number of 1N - 3N auctions

 

Holding ♦️8 as his best spot card, if S invites or puts me in game, I would not be happy.

 

At MPs, a partscore is only bad if everyone is in it and you’re not - which they won’t be on this hand.

 

If I make 9 tricks by playing small to ♣️Q at trick 2 (❤️ turning out to be 4/4), I will be average plus. I’m always happy with average plus at MPs.

 

D.

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At Imps, you play on and as long as the opponents follow to 2 rounds, you make your contract by continuing to play on .

 

At MPs, I'm in the leading a low at trick 2 toward the Q. If the K lies favorably, you may bring in the whole suit. And whether it's favorable or not, you may still do so if J10 are doubleton (with the lovely 9 in the North hand.

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[hv=pc=n&s=sk3hj52da82cq7653&w=sj7ht983dqj95ckt2&n=saq654ha4dt74ca94&e=st982hkq76dk63cj8&d=n&v=0&b=1&a=1sp1nppp]399|300[/hv]

 

I played A club, club, i agree that low to Q is better. anyway the opps defended well for -1

 

the traveller (mixed field to say the least)

 

1X 3n= (N)

2X 1n+1 (N)

1X 3C= (N)

1X 2S= (N)

2X 1N= (N)

1X 1N = (S)

1X 3H-1 (W)

1X 1N-1 (S)

1X 3N-1 (N)

1X 3N-2 (N)

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[hv=pc=n&s=sk3hj52da82cq7653&w=sj7ht983dqj95ckt2&n=saq654ha4dt74ca94&e=st982hkq76dk63cj8&d=n&v=0&b=1&a=1sp1nppp]399|300[/hv]

the traveller (mixed field to say the least)

 

3nt making, really?

 

I played the same as you but ignored advice from my early years that against a field like this there is no such thing as a bad plus score.

 

Not that long after I was told that playing in such fields would hurt the overall integrity of your game (too much randomness) by good players that increasingly played only in tournaments.

 

I like to play though so adopted the strategy of bidding/playing as if the opponents are good, even the palookas. Still maintain that with my regular partner for the most part, take a lot of lumps but are still competitive when its tournament time. Maybe this strategy should only apply to bidding?

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I'm late to this thread, but was astounded at the earlier responses, where most elected to play on clubs.

 

First point: forget about tables where they reach 3N. You are not competing against them no matter what you do unless you totally screw up and go down 1 when someone in 3N is making 8 tricks, which seems remote...if the cards are that friendly, you'd really need to screw up to take only 6.

 

I was going to write a long analysis, but it really would be very long and would have to contain several simplifications, in terms of the odds within the black suits, so I gave up.

 

Really simply: playing on spades virtually assures a plus score.

 

Plus, and this is very important at mps in a less than truly expert field, when spades break 3-3, we have a great chance to have the opps misdefend. I would pitch 2 clubs on the spades....now all I need is for the opp with 3 clubs to pitch one...and they can't stop me making 8 or 9 tricks...the number depending on the heart break (ok, maybe 7 tricks but I'd be betting no-one has 6 hearts).

 

This makes playing on spades far more attractive than the 35.5% of a 3-3 break (a priori) might suggest.

 

On the other hand, we need a lot of luck in clubs to be able to get anywhere....while 1=4 with the K on our right is useful, I will assume that we have about a 50% chance of getting a second club trick. We have about a 35% chance of running the clubs for one loser.

 

If we can't set up the clubs in two rounds, we are probably going down. We have at best a 50% chance of setting up the clubs and 35% of that time we don't need to do it now...we can run the spades first. So playing on clubs first helps us ONLY when spades do not break and clubs behave...or about 33% of the time.

 

Note that when clubs don't behave, the defence is trivial and we have no upside. Playing on spades, meanwhile, is not merely slightly higher percentage against perfect defence but offers a significant likelihood of inducing misdefence.

 

My gut told me that playing on spades was clearly right. My analysis surprised me (it was far more complex than suggested here) but still confirms what my gut told me: playing on spades is significantly superior to playing on clubs.

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Perhaps I am overlooking something.

 

I looked at the club first play as the route to 9 tricks but discarded it for the more straightforward line on playing on spades. It appears to me that if you attack clubs, you will only make 3 when the clubs are 3/2, king onside, and the hearts are 4-4, a 34x33 percent chance, or about 11%. That seems a low chance to take as it risks a plus score if everything is wrong.

 

However, you can test the spades and if they are 3-3 you can still lead a low club toward the queen and make the same 3 when the hearts are 4-4 and the club king is onside while guaranteeing the contract if the spades are no worse than 4-2.

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[hv=pc=n&s=sk3hj52da82cq7653&w=sj7ht983dqj95ckt2&n=saq654ha4dt74ca94&e=st982hkq76dk63cj8&d=n&v=0&b=1&a=1sp1nppp]399|300|

I played A club, club, i agree that low to Q is better. anyway the opps defended well for -1. the traveller (mixed field to say the least)

1X 3n= (N)

2X 1n+1 (N)

1X 3C= (N)

1X 2S= (N)

2X 1N= (N)

1X 1N = (S)

1X 3H-1 (W)

1X 1N-1 (S)

1X 3N-1 (N)

1X 3N-2 (N)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

Agree with Gszes, Kuhchung, Wackojack, and MikeH:

Win A immediately and play on s unless they are 5-1.

1N seems an excellent contract, and a red suit lead seems normal, so you should settle for a safe plus score.

I prefer MPs to IMPs. As MikeH writes: MPs is often the pursuit of the plus score.

At MPs, Ian Morrison (RIP, a top Scottish player) crudely estimated his MP score by counting his plus scores.

Effectively, you are competing with other players in 1N and should concentrate on matching or beating them.

As JohnU writes: You can't catch up with players who bid and make 3N. And, If they go down, then you've already beaten them[/hv]

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If 3NT is cold, then any part score is a bad board against a game.

You don't get it. If 3NT is cold then it doesn't matter whether you go +120 or +150. +600 will still beat you.

You must compete against those people who are in part scores. +120 will beat 3+3 (+110) and will beat 2+2 (110).

If 3NT makes 3 or 3+4 when you're just in the wrong contract. Next time bid better.

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You don't get it. If 3NT is cold then it doesn't matter whether you go +120 or +150. +600 will still beat you.

You must compete against those people who are in part scores. +120 will beat 3+3 (+110) and will beat 2+2 (110).

If 3NT makes 3 or 3+4 when you're just in the wrong contract. Next time bid better.

 

True. Or True But.

120 beats 110, but 90 doesn't. If spades are 4-2 and we start with AKQx of spades, they win that spade, they take their hearts, and they lead a diamond. We get our four spades and the other aces.

 

 

By nature I also tend to go for the plus so my first thought was to play the spades as that pretty much guarantees at least +90. If we play a club to the Q and it loses to the K, we still have our +120 if spades are 3-3 (unless they can now cash an unlikely five hear tricks) but of course we go down if spades are 4-2. Is this the time to get frisky? ? I don't see that it is clear-cut.

 

Worrying about alternative contracts can lead to a lot of really poor choices but still. A lot of people play forcing NT. They cannot play 1NT. Yes, those that are in 3NT have either beaten us on the auction or lost to us on the auction, depending on the lie. But perhaps some will be in 2C, or 3C, or 2S? We will beat them if spades are 3-3, but if spades are 4-2? Establishing spades gives us +90, more than that is highly unlikely. I can imagine 9 tricks in clubs or 8 tricks in spades and then +90 is not enough. Neither 3C nor 2S is a certain make, but not bizarre either. . .

 

So I can see some logic in the club play at T2. We are still getting 120 if spades are 3-3, and it might be the only route to 120 if spades are 4-2. Of course it could also be a route to a negative score.

So: Bridge is fun.

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You don't get it. If 3NT is cold then it doesn't matter whether you go +120 or +150. +600 will still beat you.

You must compete against those people who are in part scores. +120 will beat 3+3 (+110) and will beat 2+2 (110).

If 3NT makes 3 or 3+4 when you're just in the wrong contract. Next time bid better.

 

That's not what you said. You said

 

You have to play it for +120. If you're cold for 150, then you're getting a bad board against those people who are in 3NT.

 

Maybe that's not what you meant to write, but there it is in quotes.

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