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Which opening (or pass)


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Playing some "vanilla" 5cM and strong NT with a new partner (some kind of charity tournament), you deal all green and have:

 

KQ9xx

x

Kx

QTxxx

 

What would you do? I opted for a brave 1S after toying with a weak 2 but I had already done it 3 deals before with KJTxx x xxx KJxx and didn't want my unknown partner to think I'd do this all the time.

 

Auction follows 1S-2H (not GF), 2S-3C (semi-natural, GF). Now what?

 

If you passed, you would face a simpler 1H-1S, 2C-? And if you opened 2S, partner probably tried 3H but could also leave you there in a nightmarish contract...

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Playing some "vanilla" 5cM and strong NT with a new partner (some kind of charity tournament), you deal all green and have:

 

KQ9xx

x

Kx

QTxxx

 

What would you do? I opted for a brave 1S after toying with a weak 2 but I had already done it 3 deals before with KJTxx x xxx KJxx and didn't want my unknown partner to think I'd do this all the time.

 

Auction follows 1S-2H (not GF), 2S-3C (semi-natural, GF). Now what?

 

If you passed, you would face a simpler 1H-1S, 2C-? And if you opened 2S, partner probably tried 3H but could also leave you there in a nightmarish contract...

 

Opening or not depends on your style. Just don't open weak 2. Either pass or open 1.

I personally open very light but I would not open with this. I paid way too much for opening with aceless and less than genuine values.

 

If I passed and pd opened 1 and rebid 2, I would make 4th suit forcing planning to follow by 3 unless he shows 3 card .

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Generally OK to pass when holding these values and shape with . Can always get back in with ease.

As others say, Pass then 2 is a great description of this hand.

 

Would consider 2 only in 3rd position after 2 passes. 1 in 1, 2 and 4.

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I am assuming this is matchpoints. Nobody vulnerable at matchpoints, I am willing to give up a bit of accuracy in game bidding in order to have a huge advantage of being the declaring side in a part score battle.where the 50's one side collects can hardly make up for a making part score. So I open 1S.

 

After 1S-2H-2S-3C (game forcing) I would bid 5C since I use the principle of fast arrival in game forcing auctions. I don't think that one diamond stopper is likely to hold up in notrump when I'm so unlikely to have nine runners. If partner was making a strong slam try in hearts or spades, I hope he has a hand so strong that he can make 5 opposite this; but I don't see a call that describes my hand better.

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I have:

  • A five loser hand
  • Some defence
  • A rebid
  • A good major suit

What am I missing from an opening bid?

 

One problem with passing is that you might get the auction 1H - 1S; 2C and now it's not clear that 2D is artificial and forcing (can a passed hand really force to game?). This is natural and encouraging for many pairs, and if I bid 2D I might just wind up playing it there.

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I have:

  • A five loser hand
  • Some defence
  • A rebid
  • A good major suit

What am I missing from an opening bid?

Quick tricks? While it meets the Rule of Twenty, it doesn't meet the rule of 20+2.

 

Plus, your rebid isn't all that awesome over 2 of a red suit, and partner isn't going to think too much of your defense if they have AKxx(x)

 

Also, the LTC has an ace/queen adjustment?

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Quick tricks? While it meets the Rule of Twenty, it doesn't meet the rule of 20+2.

 

Plus, your rebid isn't all that awesome over 2 of a red suit, and partner isn't going to think too much of your defense if they have AKxx(x)

 

Also, the LTC has an ace/queen adjustment?

 

Sorry, never heard of the rule of 20+2, but if it says I need 2 quick tricks to open it's simply misguided. It's easy to construct both balanced and unbalanced hands that are simply too good to pass.

 

This hand does have 1.5 quick tricks and a spare queen that isn't included in the count.

 

As to your other points:

  • I'm not sure the LTC would downgrade either of these queens, given they have supporting honours and are in a five card suit. Even so, 6 losers is enough to accept an invite, let alone open the bidding.
  • My rebid is exactly the same as any other 5/5 minimum opening hand would do, and partner will take that into account. After 2 of a red suit and 2S from me, I can bid 3C over 2NT or pass a rebid from partner. If partner bids clubs or raises spades I'm happy to take a shot at game. The only "bad" auction is 1S-2H; 2S-3D, where I have to bid 3NT. But it could easily be the right spot. Even if it isn't, there could easily be 9 tricks - they have to lead one of our suits after all.
  • If partner has AKxx(x) of clubs, I'm not seeing too many auctions where we defend without mentioning the club suit - particularly where the auction would have gone better had I passed. I'm sure there are some, but they seem a pretty small subset. I still have my 1.5 defensive tricks you weren't impressed by, and the spades have a fair chance of being two tricks if I got a chance to mention them and partner doubled quickly anyway.

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With a regular partner ( we play Precision) either of us will NOT open this except in the 3rd seat.Change the club Q to K and we will open it in all positions.Playing standard system and irregular partner I shall open this at match points but think twice at IMP event.It is not wise (again my personal opinion) only to take rule of 20,LTC in isolation.Partner will count on you for two defensive tricks if the auction becomes competitive.
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I would always open 1s with this. In my view, 2 would definitely indicate 6 cards and (taking the singleton into account) a weaker hand. I always look for what would be my second bid depending on what my partner responds.

There is a clear second bid - depending on systems used.

A pass might miss out on a valuable part-score, even if partner is weak.

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Pass is an easy first bid for me. Unless partner expects me to open very light, it will be difficult to plus after opening. Hands that we can make 2 on will often end at 3 (after partner invites) or higher. My philosophy is to look for early opportunities to limit my hand, and passing hands like this is an easy way to accomplish that objective. If I open this, then my future bids will focus on limiting the potential damage. If the hand is not passed out, it will be easy for me to make stronger bids later without misleading partner.
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This is a matter to discuss with your partner.

 

I would pass, both because (A) it's pretty easy to show this hand later on in most auctions and (B) if I open and partner has a 10-14 hand with no fit, we're going to get up too high.

 

Cheers,

Mike

 

It becomes much less easy to show when an opp opens his weak NT 1.

 

The only reason I can see for not opening is if I can't bid a natural and NF 2 over 1N.

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I see nothing inherently wrong with the aggressive/light 1S opening; it meets the requirements of the Rule of 20. That said, there are some who believe it is better to open 1C with these 5 spade 5 club hands that are in the minimum opening range in order to reduce rebid problems (such as the one you experienced after the 2H response). On the other hand, opening 1S has the advantage of being more obstructive. For what it is worth, I am a 1S bidder too.

 

That said, I agree with your 2S rebid (provided it has not been agreed that it promises 6+ spades) because you do not have the values to support a high reverse rebid of 3C.

 

But, when partner now rebids 3C, I am perplexed as to why you see a problem! You have support and, when you have good support (and 5 card support headed by two honors most surely qualifies as VERY good if not excellent support), you absolutely MUST show your support. Bidding 4C is the obvious standout bid. I simply can't imagine what the problem is, was, or could have been.

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Auction follows 1S-2H (not GF), 2S-3C (semi-natural, GF). Now what?

 

Bidding 4C is the obvious standout bid. I simply can't imagine what the problem is, was, or could have been.

 

 

If I were to open this, I'd bid 5 over partner's rebid, not 4. What on earth would make me want to encourage slam?

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