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[hv=pc=n&w=s7h943d543caqjt52&d=e&v=n&b=2&a=1h1s]133|200|Playing 2/1 MPs:What is your bid here - show the fit, or the quite nice club suit, and is it clear?[/hv]
I guess to bid 2 (or 3 if that shows support). If we decide to sacrifice against opponent's 4, then s may play better than s
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Thanks all. I've not played fit jumps in a reg partnership - given that we play rev Bergen raises with no competition, is it workable to also play fit jumps with competition?

Yes, certainly 3 as a fit jump is playable, and I play it, it is just that I think I would rather not voluntarily go that high on this hand.

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Playing standard normal 2/1 at least in my part of the US, one needs more than 7 HCP to bid 2 in spite of the nice suit. So for me, a clear 2 and if the opps bid 2 and that comes around to me, I'll then bid 3.
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Your final destination is,as yet,unclear. Partner has a point range of 12-19 HCP You need more information.

Bid 2 to ask partner to further describe his hand. If he can support clubs,there could well be a slam on.

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Like with many problems, it all depends on partner. If he is a random BBO partner bid 2H, then 3C if you get a second chance. However you can bid 2C if playing with a regular partner with whom you have an agreement that a new suit after interference is not forcing (although 2H might still work out better). 3C as a fit jump might work out ok, but again, only with a regular partner.

 

I can't say I'm too keen on the idea of playing 1NT as a transfer to 2C, as has been suggested. This treatment rules out natural 1NT bids, which can be useful, but perhaps worse give oppo a wide range of options. E.g. Double of 1Nt followed by double of 2C= penalties, pass followed by double = values.

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On most 2/1 cards, a jump to 3 in competition is pre-emptive, not a fit showing jump (see the GIB 2/1 card). The club suit is so good and you have heart support, so game (or slam) is not out of the question, so you want to get a response from partner. (Playing that 3 is a fit showing jump here (special agreement) might not work out if partner expects a better suit). Playing the GIB 2/1 card, 2 is best because you do have more than 10 support points and a real suit, which is all the bid promises.
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I can't say I'm too keen on the idea of playing 1NT as a transfer to 2C, as has been suggested. This treatment rules out natural 1NT bids, which can be useful, but perhaps worse give oppo a wide range of options. E.g. Double of 1Nt followed by double of 2C= penalties, pass followed by double = values.

Transfers always give opponents an extra bite at the cherry. Yet they are used in many situations, because the transfer bidder believes that the benefits of a much fuller description (here allowing you to show both long clubs and heart support rather than having to choose just one), or allowing multiple ranges of strength to be shown, or putting the overcaller on lead, completely outweigh the extra bite for opponents.

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2 without any special agreements. If the opponents bid 2 , back to this hand, I'll rollout 3 .

 

Of course, some of us old K-Sers would still play 1 NT as forcing in this situation showing the 9+ hand. If available, that would be my bid intending to bid 3 the next round. That sequence would be a slight overbid, but with the nice s and shortness, I'll be a little aggressive.

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Thanks all. I've not played fit jumps in a reg partnership - given that we play rev Bergen raises with no competition, is it workable to also play fit jumps with competition?

Fit jumps are usually employed in contested auction, and if you like them,

you will use them in uncontested auction, if one player is a passed hand,

most oppossite a 4th hand opener, but I would say it will also work vs.

a 3rd hand opener.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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I would bid 2H. You have 10 supporting points (7 HCP plus 3 for the spade singleton), which is marginal for a more encouraging bid, but your bad trumps plus the likelihood that any spade values partner may have will be compromised sitting under the 1S bidder suggests a conservative view.

 

Bidding 3H is generally played as preemptive and without question promises at least 4 card (and usually exactly) heart support.

 

You don't have enough strength to take 2 bids, so showing the clubs is inadvisable. You need to get your heart support in now, particularly since it is not that unlikely that your LHO might raise spades to an uncomfortably high level. If that happens, partner will be in a much stronger position to make a good decision if partner knows about your heart support.

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I would bid 2H. You have 10 supporting points (7 HCP plus 3 for the spade singleton), which is marginal for a more encouraging bid, but your bad trumps plus the likelihood that any spade values partner may have will be compromised sitting under the 1S bidder suggests a conservative view.

 

Bidding 3H is generally played as preemptive and without question promises at least 4 card (and usually exactly) heart support.

 

You don't have enough strength to take 2 bids, so showing the clubs is inadvisable. You need to get your heart support in now, particularly since it is not that unlikely that your LHO might raise spades to an uncomfortably high level. If that happens, partner will be in a much stronger position to make a good decision if partner knows about your heart support.

I don't think that is the way to value this hand in support of hearts. 3 for a singleton & holding only 3 trumps is not right. Some people think 2 (with only three trumps) is too much. But this is a trick-source hand and should be evaluated in those terms -- taking into account the possible further competition by those other guys.

 

That is why it might be a good idea to show the side source and trump fit -- then let partner be our side's boss while at the same time gobbling up some of the opponents' space.

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