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Jump reverse or not?


mdaw

  

28 members have voted

  1. 1. Opener should rebid

    • 1sp
      6
    • 2NT
      3
    • 2sp
      17
    • other
      2


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First of all it is not a jump reverse but a jump shift. A jump reverse would be something like 1 - 1; 3. Secondly, although it is not mainstream there are a few on BBF that play a 1 rebid here as forcing so clearly for them this would not be a 2 rebid. For the rest I would imagine this North hand would qualify. Then South can continue with 3 and North raise. South can probably just ask for key cards now and getting to a grand will probably depend on whether it can be discovered that there is no slow club loser. There are a few ways of doing that and it will obviously depend on the follow-up methods being employed.
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Further bidding depends on methods.

 

Playing with a random partner with no agreements, uncertain whether 1 would be taken as forcing, 2 from N, 3 4 all natural. South continues :

4NT 5 - ace ask; 0 or 3 (I assume 3041 is the standard default)

5 5NT - K ask, as 5 would be Q ask, and 5 signoff; K shown by NT as you must keep bidding below 6

6 - uncertain whether partner would take 6 as natural, or an SSA general try for heart grand.

 

With a partner you are familiar with then you will have your agreed methods.

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Playing with a random partner with no agreements, uncertain whether 1 would be taken as forcing, 2 from N, 3 4 all natural. South continues :

4NT 5 - ace ask; 0 or 3 (I assume 3041 is the standard default)

5 5NT - K ask, as 5 would be Q ask, and 5 signoff; K shown by NT as you must keep bidding below 6

6 - uncertain whether partner would take 6 as natural, or an SSA general try for heart grand.

After 5NT, 6 should probably be an ask for the K (with K possibly also being useful) and 6 an ask for the K. The trick playing SSAs here would be to make an SSA in diamonds instead of asking for kings. If partner has AQxxx there are 3 discards and K is unnecessary. Of course going that route does give up on the possibility of Opener holding both black kings so it is no guarantee of success. If SSAs are not being played then South can probably show K plus the remaining 2 key cards and Q, so that would be an alternative route to 7NT.

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Further bidding depends on methods.

 

Playing with a random partner with no agreements, uncertain whether 1 would be taken as forcing, 2 from N, 3 4 all natural. South continues :

4NT 5 - ace ask; 0 or 3 (I assume 3041 is the standard default)

5 5NT - K ask, as 5 would be Q ask, and 5 signoff; K shown by NT as you must keep bidding below 6

6 - uncertain whether partner would take 6 as natural, or an SSA general try for heart grand.

 

With a partner you are familiar with then you will have your agreed methods.

 

7 instead of 6 is rigth bid if you imagine North's worst possible hand. In real problem auction went:

 

1 - 1

2 - 3

3 - ?

 

North thought that 3 was a cue-bid and were agreed. South wasn't sure how to agree :)

 

South has bid 6 and that became the final contract. Should North bid 7 with AK A?

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7 instead of 6 is rigth bid if you imagine North's worst possible hand. In real problem auction went:

 

1 - 1

2 - 3

3 - ?

 

North thought that 3 was a cue-bid and were agreed. South wasn't sure how to agree :)

 

South has bid 6 and that became the final contract. Should North have bid 7 with these values: AK A?

7NT is right and easy to bid whenever we find out that there are 13 tricks in hearts. 3 is not a cue bid but rather showing a very distributional (6-5) hand. North has 2 ways to agree hearts, namely 4 and 4. South on the other hand should not be in any hurry to agree hearts after 3 - why play in a potential 6-0 fit off the trump AK when there is a perfectly good 6-2 fit available in diamonds? It ended up a pretty messed up auction to be honest so be happy you at least got to a reasonable contract, most likely scoring with the field I would guess.

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Matchpoints

 

KJxx

AK

AQ10xx

Qx

 

Ax

QJ10xxx

KJ

Axx

 

 

1 - 1

?

 

System 2-over-1 GF.

How the further bidding should look like?

 

I will try 2nt now

 

perhaps:

 

1d=1h

2nt=3h(checkback with only 5h)

4h=4s

4nt!=5d

5s=5nt

6d=7nt

 

 

4s-rkc in h

4nt=0-3

5d=KD grand try

5s=KS

5nt=anything else, deny KC

6d=QD

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I don't think the hand is worth a jump shift to 2, on the grounds that the suits you have are full of holes. IMO a jump shift should look like:

 

KQJx

x

AKJ10xx

Ax

 

1 is enough for me on the thread hand. I can accept a 2NT rebid without totally agreeing with it.

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[hv=pc=n&w=skj43hakdaqt32cq4&e=sa2hqjt432dkjca32&d=W&v=0&a=1dp1hp1sp2c(4th suit)p2hp3dp5h(!C control?)p5s(Yes and !Sp control)p7n(Punt)ppp]266|200|

I rank

1. 2N = NAT. 18-19. Fairly descriptive.

2. 1 = NAT NF but rarely passed.

3. 2 = NAT. GF.

 

No idea how to bid 2/1. Perhaps on a very good day ...

[/hv]

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It's true that the hand is a bit light for the 2S game forcing call, but given the C weakness it's my choice. And yes it's a jump shift, not a jump reverse.

 

Then after 3H - 4H, responder can BW and once all Key Cards are confirmed, with the great strength W has shown and the fitting cards in opener's first suit, 7NT stands out.

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I quite like a 2NT rebid on this hand.

 

(a) to protect the Qx. Partner can still check back for a 4-4 spade fit. If the auction starts 1-1-2-3(4th suit forcing), what next? If you bid 3 and partner has Axx or Kxx, he probably won't risk 3 now and NT will be wrong sided.

 

(b) to describe the general strength of the hand (18-19). If you rebid 1 and partner passes, you'll be concerned that you may have missed game. If you rebid 2, it's fine to force to game if partner needs the traditional 6HCP to respond, but these days many people respond very light and it's nice to be able to stop in a contract you have a chance of making!

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