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Do you always play to make a game?


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[hv=d=s&v=n&n=sxhk9xdxxxcqjtxxx&s=skxhajtxxxxdxxcak]133|200|Scoring: IMP

1-(p)-2-(2)

5-all pass[/hv]

 

Do you agree with 5?

 

Small club was lead. I cashed A and east discarded spade. I can play safety one down. Or play second club and if they don't ruff I will make it..

I was 90% sure that the opening lead was singleton but I wanted to make it. Down two, can be down three. No problem. -50 or -100 at IMPs when they can make 5.

 

But how do play play it when LHO doubles or at Matchpoints?

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I must be missing something here. The diagram says I am SOUTH.

 

East has a trump trick (West showed out). How can I 'guarantee' -1? If I give him his heart trick 1st, I'm losing a spade, 2 diamonds and heart. If I try to unblock the K 1st, I'm still losing a spade, 2 diamonds and a heart.

 

On this layout I need East to hold at least 3 clubs so I can ditch TWO diamonds before he ruffs in.

 

_____________________________________________

 

(If WEST has the trump trick, (and there is a typo in the diagram) then I suppose the question posed is correct). You can lose the club ruff, they cash diamond, diamond, spade and get an overruff with the Q; -3; -150. If West follows to the 2nd club, then you make 7, +510. There's nothing in the bidding to guide you here, although I suppose if West thought that he has you beat in 5, while 5 is dubious, then its certainly more likely he holds a stiff.

 

From an IMP odds standpoint, if you think the auction and lead are the same as the other table, then try to make your contract. By exchanging -1 for -3 NV, you are sacrificing 3 IMPs. OTOH, going down in a cold game (actually with two overtricks), you are risking 10 IMPs for insuring -1. Would you wager 10:3 that the lead is a stiff? Maybe, but I don't think its indicated.

 

Since so much can happen here, I think you are taking a view that -1 undoubled rates to be a good score.

 

If you were doubled this is a whole different kettle of fish; now you are risking -500 when -100 is achievable.

 

The comment about 5 being cold is 100% correct, but only if the lead is a stiff. Maybe you gave away too much information when you said that. :P

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[hv=d=s&v=n&n=sxhk9xdxxxcqjtxxx&s=skxhajtxxxxdxxcak]133|200|Scoring: IMP

1-(p)-2-(2)

5-all pass[/hv]

 

Do you agree with 5?

 

Small club was lead. I cashed A and west discarded spade. I can play safety one down. Or play second club and if they don't ruff I will make it..

I was 90% sure that the opening lead was singleton but I wanted to make it. Down two, can be down three. No problem. -50 or -100 at IMPs when they can make 5.

 

But how do play play it when LHO doubles or at Matchpoints?

NO - U need to make a decision As and WHEN opps bid 4(IMO)

For all you know they may NOT bid it and you make 4

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If you don't like 5h imagine that the bidding goes:

1h-(p)-2h-(2s)

4h-(4s)-p-(p)

5h-(x)-all pass

 

You can make one down when east has ace of spades.

When you play club (trying to unblock), west can ruff, play diamond, other diamond other ruff and ace of spades. Down three and -500.

Between -50 and -150 is not big difference but between -100 and -500 is.

If the contract is doubled: do you unblock clubs (try make a game) or take -100?

 

In MP you play 5h undoubled.

If the lead was really singleton and you play for one down, you can defeat all the pairs who play 5h doubled.

 

 

I think 5h isn't bad bid.

I was sure that it doesn't ask trumph control (imagine a hand where you use it).

Do you really think that they will let you play 4h. I don't. And what do you bid over 4s? I prefer 5h.

So I bid 5h immediately. As you can see it worked. No 5 spades, no double....

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