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what is X meaning?


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Green against red. Matchpoints

 

Playing 2/1 you deal and bid 1D (better minor) and LHO pass.

Partner bids 3D (inverted minors) and RHO bids 4H.

 

What does X from you mean?

 

X by me means " Pd i will be VERY pissed if you pull this "

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Welcome to the forums.

 

The point of a take-out double is to find a fit. If we have a fit then we do not need a take-out double! Therefore this double is penalty by default. Some pairs play a double after a raise to suggest bidding on in specific auctions. That would not apply here even if agreed for other situations.

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Welcome to the forums.

 

The point of a take-out double is to find a fit. If we have a fit then we do not need a take-out double! Therefore this double is penalty by default. Some pairs play a double after a raise to suggest bidding on in specific auctions. That would not apply here even if agreed for other situations.

The basic philosophy behind this argument is clearly sound. When we bid and raised (or implied and raised) a suit, we found a fit and we do not normally want to look for another one. However, there still remains the question what a penalty double should actually show. In some cases it's better to play double as "maximum balanced", for example:

 

1-p-2-3

p-p-X

 

would show 8-9 points, 2-4 diamonds (maybe better to play it as 3-4). In this case we are trying to decide between 3 and 3x (and maybe even 4). Note that opener's double could be played either way - penalty or maximum balanced.

 

Another case where we "found a fit" and double is not absolute penalty:

 

1-4-5-p

p-x

 

just shows that the 4 bid was maximum, intending to make. We will not really play in any other denomination here, we are just deciding between 5 and 5x.

 

And one for the road:

 

1-1-2-2

3-4-X

 

just shows you had a game force as responder.

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As a general rule X is penalty after partner preempt or after partner fully describes his/her hand.

Not sure about "fully described his hand". For some, a 1NT opening is a more accurate description than a preempt, but even so you may still play t/o doubles after partner's 1NT opening.

 

Not after partner's preempt - in that situation, double is always penalty. The reason is this: part of the purpose of preempting is that it puts opps under pressure to bid at an unsafe level. We want to take advantage of this by being able to penalize them.

 

In other situations, when you want to penalize opps you can pass, awaiting partner's reopening double. Not after partner preempted. Partner, after having preempted, will almost never reopen:

 

1-(pass)-3-(3)

pass-(pass)-?

Here, the 3 bidder will almost always pass. It is quite possible that opener is very happy defending 3 undoubled, and that the preempt has done its job, allowing us to defend 3 undoubled. Maybe they make 3+2. Maybe they struggle in 3 while a double would help them escape to 3. Responder has shown his hand and opener has decided that defending undoubled is fine. Responder will respect opener's decision.

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I gave a little time to see what's people reply... I hate to break the sad news to everybody who tried to guess the whole story.

 

Indeed I opened 1D and X meaning penalty. partner left the double. 4HX+1 made.

 

An expert said it's common in experts circles to double holding a strong balanced or semi balanced hand (more or less what I had) and

partner should pull the double if he is unbalanced. According to him one should not double with something like

XX AQTX XXXXX AK because one doesn't want the double could be pulled.

 

I was wandering just how common is that method.

(not on the actual hand in which partner bid was disciplined and systematic)

 

for those who want the complete hand...

I held Q 9XXX AQXX AKQX and partner held JX X KJXXX XXXXX and stood the double. (partner bid is 6-7 in our method and partner upgraded because 5-5)

declarer held 6 hearts to the AKQJ and 5 spades with void in clubs and two small diamonds.

dummy had 5 spades, doubleton heart, doubleton diamond and JXXX in clubs.

 

We have 4 in either minor (after giving a spade, a heart and a club) they have 5 in either major. some players actually made 6S or 7S after a club lead.

According to the traveling score it was common to double 4H with my hand.

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I had the same auction in the same tournament holding your hand. I led the A figuring RHO is more likely to jump around with shortness in "our" suit, so they made +3. We weren't the only 890 on the scoresheet. I'd be surprised if anyone would've taken a different action with your hand - not sure how you're supposed to tell the opponents have a double fit on this auction.
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what this 'expert' told you would be true in many auctions where the opps pre-empt.

 

not this one though. the difference is partner's already told you what he's got within a fairly narrow band. having already told you what he's got, it's pointless to consult him again, so no need for a TO orientated X.

 

compare it to 1 - (4) - X. here opener can have a lot of different hand types (balanced hand, long clubs, side spade suit, etc) for his 1 opener. if you have a monster trump stack on this auction then yes you have to pass because doubling invites partner to bid with a shapely hand.

 

common situations where many people who mostly TOish doubles still play X as penalty include after P pre-empts, after finding a fit in 1 suit, after trying to pass something out but the opps balance, after making a TO X of a different suit, etc

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I am less interested in the actual hand. more interested in he principal. (the auction could just as well be 1H-(P)-3H(bergen)-(4S))

but with respect to comments about the hand.

 

1. it's pretty obvious they have spade fit. (partner doesn't have a 4 card major and I hold singleton spade so they rate to have at least 9 spades)

The only case where they don't have double fit is if they don't have a fit in hearts - the suit they bid

(could happen if partner has 3 hearts. In this case dummy is probably void and may pull the double...)

 

2. The X is marginal at best.

I debated before doubling and (wrongly as i turned out...) choose X.

Playing match points I couldn't pass this. so it was between 5D and X.

 

My intuition was that if they do have heart fit, then partner doesn't have more then 1 heart loser and 1 spade loser and possible 1 diamond loser so 4-5 diamonds is likely.

On the other hand I figured that it's possible that they are playing in the wrong suit.

(maybe a 6-0 or 6-1 and even 5-2 or 5-1 fit is not impossible.)

or that I may score 2-3 clubs, a spade ruff and some diamonds for 500 was not out of the question.

 

I am not saying I would choose X every time but stating I would bid differently now is being a result merchant.

 

3. As I said our methods says to pass the X which is what happened on the table.

It will not be the first time our methods yield poor results but we wanted to check that we are on the same page with most of the bridge population.

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There's an old saying: If the opponents don't make some doubled contracts, you're not doubling enough.

 

I don't think you can get hung up about this hand. You had company, so you can tell that your action wasn't insane. More than half your strength was outside your own suit, that suggests defending. You didn't have too much length in your suit. Partner didn't have to be sub-minimum for his bid.

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Partner showed a weak hand and you made a penalty double. You are supposed to be able to beat 4.

 

I would not pull on partner's hand.

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I had the same auction in the same tournament holding your hand. I led the A figuring RHO is more likely to jump around with shortness in "our" suit, so they made +3. We weren't the only 890 on the scoresheet. I'd be surprised if anyone would've taken a different action with your hand - not sure how you're supposed to tell the opponents have a double fit on this auction.

 

On the hand given opponents can´t make more than 6+5 playing in a heart contract.

 

Either the auction was not the same (played in spades instead of hearts) or the hand was not the same (spades weren´t 5-5 in the opponent´s hand) or you discarded very very poorly.

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The hand, rotated so the hand in the OP is south. S dealer, vul. none.

[hv=pc=n&s=sqh9762daqt2cakqt&w=saj873h53d43cj875&n=s62hjdk9875c96432&e=skt954hakqt84dj6c]399|300[/hv]

 

Seeing as I played it in a somewhat different context than the OP, I'm totally willing to believe I threw the hand away.

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Perhaps another thread with this thread's title will appear down the road. It will explore the notion that a double must be lumped into one of two categories: "penalty" or "takeout". This vaguery is a problem in disclosure and in forum discussions.

 

Most people here believe, as I do, that the double on this auction is at the extreme end of the spectrum..."They are not making, and you (pard) are not removing." South's hand does not meet that test.

 

Looking at South, I am not sure it is resulting (considering his strength concentration and spade singleton) for him to take a bid (not double) over 4H despite the fact he only has 8 minor suit cards. Of course, it would be helpful to know responder would not have bid 3D with less than 5 of them or with a four-card major. We would know that; would you?

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Aguahombre : I don't think you are right... We were playing matchpoints.

holding south hand my thought was 4H= is probably not a good score for us since I think we can make at least 4 or 5 diamonds if they do have heart fit. (I guessed heart loser, spade loser)

It's probable I would not double at imps.

 

When I bid I estimated something like 30% they are in the wrong contract, maybe even playing without fit.

(In which case I will reconsider if dummy removes to 4S)

and 30% we can't make 5D or 4H will be more then 500. counting on couple of clubs tricks and a spade ruff or two...

Partner could hold for example a major suit ace and the jack of clubs or king of diamonds.

I think a hand such as south actual hand was less likely because he may bid 4D (choose a major) with that hand.

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