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Approach on Strong 5/4


  

34 members have voted

  1. 1. What is your approach?

    • Open 1C and jump shift to 2S
      24
    • Open 2C and bid 2NT over 2D
      8
    • Open 2C and bid 3C over 2D
      1
    • Open 2C and bid 2S over 2D
      0
    • Other
      1


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[hv=pc=n&s=saqj9hkqtdkcak972]133|100[/hv]

 

Playing a fairly standard strong 2 structure (2 waiting, 3 second negative, etc), what is your preferred approach on these hands?

 

Open 1 and jump shift to 2

Open 2 and bid 2NT over 2

Open 2 and bid 3 over 2

Open 2 and bid 2 over 2

Other? (besides switching to a strong club...)

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Option 1 easily. It is so much better then some of the other ones.

 

Compare it to option 4.

 

1 - 1/ - 2 vs

2 - 2 - 2

 

In the first auction, I have gotten across that I'm strong (I've game-forced), I have at least 4-5 shape, I'm unbalanced. In the second auction, I have now lied about my shape and only shown that I'm strong. In both cases, we are now at the same level in the auction (2).

 

Of course, that was the easiest one to beat up.

 

I actually think treating this as a balanced hand is not unreasonable, it's just unnecessary.

 

I have pretty strict guidelines for opening 2 and rebidding a minor. This hand does not meet those guidelines.

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My response is: None of the given choices. Open 2C and rebid 2NT, if your initial 2NT opening is 20-21.

Opening 2C and then rebidding 3D shoes/tends to show 6 cards; rebidding 2S would show 5. This hand just looks balanced, despite the singleton K.

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I try to never open a 3-suited hand 2 no matter how strong it is.

If it starts 1-1, I would bid 1 and after 1NT by partner, I would bid 3. In one of my partnerships that would show 3 hearts, 4+ clubs, 4 spades and 19+ HCP. Even if partner has a yarborough and five hearts and decides to pass 1, the opponents will probably balance with 2, and I can bid 3 then. If it starts 1-1, then I would bid 2.

 

Luckily in my main partnership we play a 1 opening showing exactly four spades and 8+ HCP :-)

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Most people are allowed to respond on yarboroughs with majors to 1, especially with the advent of transfers of 1 and artificial strong rebids by opener (e.g. I used to play 1-1[showing hearts], 2NT = GF opposite-normal-response 4 card raise or GF-opposite-normal-response singlesuited clubs. Partner bids 3 if he responded with a yarborough, and you can stop in 3 or 3 if necessary.
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You wouldn't respond to 1 with

98763

54

42

T762

?

 

If opener reverses, you can make a transfer back to clubs and pass (opener would only not accept your transfer if he can make game opposite a yarborough), you are quite happy if he bids 2 or 1/2, with a big hand and 4-card support he bids 2NT after which you show a yarborough and stop in 3, and after 1NT you can transfer back to 3 which isn't too horrible.

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for some people it is http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif, but if its not an option I would open 1 and jumpshift to 2.

 

I assume you play 2N as 20-22 and 2C then 2N as 23-24? It is better to play the more frequent range as more precise, so 2N as 20-21 and 2C then 2N as 22-24. If your instinct was to show this as 20-22 balanced, I think you should be even happier to show it as 22-24.

 

Anyway, I open 1C and rebid 2S, but 2C then 2N is fine.

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You wouldn't respond to 1 with

98763

54

42

T762

?

 

If opener reverses, you can make a transfer back to clubs and pass (opener would only not accept your transfer if he can make game opposite a yarborough), you are quite happy if he bids 2 or 1/2, with a big hand and 4-card support he bids 2NT after which you show a yarborough and stop in 3, and after 1NT you can transfer back to 3 which isn't too horrible.

 

Definitely not!

Bid on this sort of crap and you will get far too high far too often.

  • Upvote 1
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I assume you play 2N as 20-22 and 2C then 2N as 23-24? It is better to play the more frequent range as more precise, so 2N as 20-21 and 2C then 2N as 22-24. If your instinct was to show this as 20-22 balanced, I think you should be even happier to show it as 22-24.

 

Anyway, I open 1C and rebid 2S, but 2C then 2N is fine.

 

Thanks, I am not convinced it matters in which bin you put the 0.2% probability of having 22points...(and that is with any distribution, not necessarily balanced).

Also, I assume you opened 2NT with 19 at least once or twice, so it is not about the 1 point http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

For me:

 

2NT=20-22

2-2

2NT=23-24

2-2

2*-2*(relay)

2NT=25+

 

I dont like the hand enough to open 2 - for us 22 is part of the regular range, 2NT will cause more interference for LHO not to bid anything even with a good suit - I am not worried about it being passed or left to play at 3 level and making more....but it is a matter of attitude. My partner would probably open 1 and rebid .

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Definitely not!

Bid on this sort of crap and you will get far too high far too often.

 

You didn't read my post then. With modern methods you can stop when partner has enough to force game opposite a normal response (18-22 or so). No matter what partner does, you can stop in 1 or 2 or 3 spades with a fit, or 3 clubs without one.

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You wouldn't respond to 1 with

98763

54

42

T762

?

 

If opener reverses, you can make a transfer back to clubs and pass (opener would only not accept your transfer if he can make game opposite a yarborough), you are quite happy if he bids 2 or 1/2, with a big hand and 4-card support he bids 2NT after which you show a yarborough and stop in 3, and after 1NT you can transfer back to 3 which isn't too horrible.

 

If I were a passed hand I would pass 1 with this. The chances of game are very slim and I'm not concerned with stealing since both opponents have passed too. Further, I may nt be able to 'control' a transfer auction if partner has a very strong hand and decides to GF.

 

I also doubt I'd bid playing T-Walsh. The worse thing that can happen if I pass is that we play a 4-2 club fit, but many bad things can happen if I bid.

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You didn't read my post then. With modern methods you can stop when partner has enough to force game opposite a normal response (18-22 or so). No matter what partner does, you can stop in 1 or 2 or 3 spades with a fit, or 3 clubs without one.

 

I read your post. Are you saying opener does not play splinters, limit raise, picture bids, jumps to game, or artifical raises.

Respond on this hand and use any of the gadgets I have just described for opener and you will be too high.

Perhaps we can arrange a high stakes rubber evening during the VCC?

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