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splinters not allowed?


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[hv=d=e&v=n&s=sahak62dqt6ckq864]133|100|Scoring: MP

(P) 1 (P) 1

(P) ?

Do you have any methods to bid this?[/hv]

IMO, if splinters are off the menu, then 3 (cue-bid agreeing ) = 10, 4 = 7.
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Why not straight into Blackwood or Gerber (depends on if you play 4 after a 1 opening as being natural or Gerber)?

 

If you play 4 as Gerber, you are able to ask for controls and still stop in 4 (if partner bids 4 you go looking for slam as they have the missing Aces).

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Why not straight into Blackwood or Gerber (depends on if you play 4 after a 1 opening as being natural or Gerber)?

 

If you play 4 as Gerber, you are able to ask for controls and still stop in 4 (if partner bids 4 you go looking for slam as they have the missing Aces).

lol

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[hv=d=e&v=n&s=sahak62dqt6ckq864]133|100|Scoring: MP

(P) 1 (P) 1

(P) ?

Do you have any methods to bid this?[/hv]

IMO, if splinters are off the menu, then 3 (cue-bid agreeing ) = 10, 4 = 7.

Splinters are on the menu, but not with an Ace. So 3 is out under those rules and 4 makes me ill.

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Definitely don't splinter since you play those as NF ;)

Haha, or stop playing with pickup experts.

 

[hv=d=n&v=n&n=sq9852hk8dktckj64&s=sakj64hjda975cqt9]133|200|Scoring: IMP[/hv]

 

West North East South

 

 -     1    Pass  4

 Pass  Pass  Pass  

 

Interesting hand to play and only down 4 ;)

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[hv=d=e&v=n&s=sahak62dqt6ckq864]133|100|Scoring: MP

(P) 1 (P) 1

(P) ?

Do you have any methods to bid this?[/hv]

IMO, if splinters are off the menu, then 3 (cue-bid agreeing ) = 10, 4 = 7.

Splinters are on the menu, but not with an Ace. So 3 is out under those rules and 4 makes me ill.

I would still splinter with stiff ace.

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You have to break a pet rule sometimes, if your pet rules rule out everything.

 

Either splinter with the stiff Ace, or just barge to 4H --allegedly showing a balanced hand. If you fail to splinter, but rather "bid around" the shortness by reversing and then jumping, you have still shown shortness in spades; the shortness is still an ace; and you will have overstated the strength of the hand.

 

Best to just pick the splinter, IMO -- tell the rule maker you mis-sorted and thought you had the club ace and the spade 4.

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Definitely don't splinter since you play those as NF ;)

Haha, or stop playing with pickup experts.

 

[hv=d=n&v=n&n=sq9852hk8dktckj64&s=sakj64hjda975cqt9]133|200|Scoring: IMP[/hv]

 

West North East South

 

 -     1    Pass  4

 Pass  Pass  Pass  

 

Interesting hand to play and only down 4 <_<

Dose he/she need to preempt when one side have the strengh and ... perhaps both majors?

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To splinter here is misleading IMO. (Especially when p have something in it!)

We will avoid splinter with an honor as much as possible.

 

To reverse with QTx is not my taste neither, when p happens to hold xxxx...

 

Looks like 4 is good enough. <_<

 

EDIT: 4NT is wrong here. It is just a gamble.

After all only A's and K's are concerned!

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Hi,

 

First of all - this is not a B/I question.

 

There was a thread in the last 1-2 month, which discussed using 3M+1

in this sequence as a forcing raise of responders major.

The main focus was on showing stromng bal. hand with 18-19HCP

with a fit, but if you happen to play this, than you are would have also

the option to use this agreement to show this hand.

 

A alternative is to bid 4M, which basically showes a 18-19 semibal.

hand with support, and this description comes close, the downside

is of course, that you have burned a lot of space.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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I showed this hand to a top Cannuck player last night, first I asked what his bid was after 1:1 - "3...hate it but have to"

 

His answer to my next question, what do you say to people who flatly refuse to splinter with an Ace?, was simple,

"learn to play bridge"

 

Enough said, I'm throwing this rule out!

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Enough said, I'm throwing out this rule.

 

Better yet Jilly, just adopt my philosophy (and I've said this out loud at the table many times) "There are no rules in bridge, only guidelines."

 

Sometimes you need to 1NT with two doubletons or a singleton, sometimes you need to bid a 3 card suit when it "promises" 4. Sometimes you need to make a bid that's the smallest lie, and when I do that I just roll out the line from above. It's more honest than claiming "I had a club mixed in with my spades" or similar. :)

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Sometimes you need to 1NT with two doubletons or a singleton,

I think that's a bad analogy.

 

You try to avoid opening 1NT with a singleton. Once in a blue moon you have a hand where the other options are worse.

 

As for splinters with a sec ace, either you do it or you don't. If you don't splinter with a sec ace then this hand is a wtp 4 bid.

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I showed this hand to a top Cannuck player last night, first I asked what his bid was after 1:1 - "3...hate it but have to"

 

His answer to my next question, what do you say to people who flatly refuse to splinter with an Ace?, was simple,

"learn to play bridge"

 

Enough said, I'm throwing this rule out!

Don't throw it out! Generally it is a good rule but there are ALWAYS hands where no call is an honest description and one must pick the call that is the least misdescription. This is a good example.

 

If you had no splinters at all on the card, then just bid 4H, a balanced powerhouse raise.

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I never fully understood why people are so against splintering with an ace. They act like bidding 4, which is both more vague and also a misdescription, is somehow better than 3 with the singleton ace. I don't see it.

 

Easy splinter to me.

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As the 'top cannuck [sic] player' in question, I didn't expound on my comments when jb asked, but a factor in splintering here is that, really, the sequence is near-perfect!

 

We have no minor Ace....but we are splintering to a level that makes it very, very easy for partner to cooperate with a slam move.

 

One issue that seems rarely to be explicitly discussed, when talking about splinters, is the distance between our splinter and our game. Thus, splintering into 4, when hearts are trump, is a very, very space-consuming bid and in my view should only be done on a narrow range of hand types, since we have no room for exploration below game. My guideline (and I agree with the terminology of guideline, tho some are very strict) is that a splinter into the suit below our game promises either 1st or 2nd round control in the 2 side suits. But when we have this much room (ie after 3), we usually rate to be able to clarify our control issues in time. Thus over 4 (I am ignoring uses of 3N in the B/I forum), my 4 would deny a diamond control, while over 4, I don't mind 4....it isn't a slam force.

 

BTW, use of 3N here by responder, whether it be frivilous or serious, would help, but as I say that is not, imo, a B/I issue.

 

BTW, I also added to jb that my rationale (she didn't want to use my 'learn to play bridge' argument) was that 3 was the least evil (ie least distortion).

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If you splinter with stiff ace then do that, otherwise bid 4.

 

I don't understand the logic that this should be an exception to the 'no splinter with stiff ace' agreement. It's a perfectly normal hand of its type, in both strength and shape. If you believe that not splintering with stiff ace gains in general, then you should believe it gains here.

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I am not a follower of the "no splinter with an ace" rule, I posted this hand in the hope that it would spark some disucssion from both sides and give me more to discuss with partners, I could have done better when asking the question.
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