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What's your bid ?


joker_gib

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I am a 2S bidder with this. I believe in fairly sound 3S bids in a natural system base, and bidding 3S with this makes your range too wide. This also ties in well to not opening crappy hands. This also ties in well with responding with crappy hands. This also ties in with making game tries aggressively over this auction. Basically this ties into a whole style, and you could play a completely different style but it should be based on all of the factors I mentioned.

 

If you were to play a strong club (yes I know which forum this is B)) you could bid 3S with this (or 2H if u play with jdonn :)) which ties in well to opening crappy hands and playing limited openers.

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I am a 2S bidder with this. I believe in fairly sound 3S bids in a natural system base, and bidding 3S with this makes your range too wide. This also ties in well to not opening crappy hands. This also ties in well with responding with crappy hands. This also ties in with making game tries aggressively over this auction. Basically this ties into a whole style, and you could play a completely different style but it should be based on all of the factors I mentioned.

 

If you were to play a strong club (yes I know which forum this is B)) you could bid 3S with this (or 2H if u play with jdonn :)) which ties in well to opening crappy hands and playing limited openers.

You've been watching too much "Caddyshack" - "Want to tie me up with your tie, Ty?" :P

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2S, this isn't close to me. Even if I had an invitational club splinter available (as I did with hannie - has anyone seen him lately btw?), I would not use it on this hand.

Well Arend, for once, I don't agree with you ! B)

 

Well, I think that if I have the mini splinter available I would use it for this type of borderline hand...

 

Justin adn Josh, If you had the mini available, would you use it ?

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This situation is one key argument for why I have for years required an unbalanced hand to open 1. Now, when I rebid 2, partner will know that I have spade support, real diamonds (4+), a stiff or void on the outside (and hence about 3 distributional points), and enough to otherwise open (range now about 13+ to 17- net points). He can bid 2NT to ask for more info, allowing me to bid 3 to show my stiff.

 

Sure, this means that my 1-P-1-P-2 sequences, when unbalanced, are not known to be unbalanced (not a great loss to only cover one minor when the alternative is neither), and when balanced either minor could be better. But, experience tells me that this works in the long run. Plus, if I really want to play mini-splinters by opener, 1...3 and 1...3 are both available, whereas 1...3 probably is not a mini-splinter.

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2 is enough, too many losers(6) for 3. Bidding 3 with this hand will result more often in going overboard than in reaching a thin game

Hi,

 

I can live with bidding 2S, but if you are using

LTC, as I do, than 3S is clear, because 3S does

show a 6 looser hand.

 

I think you can downgrade this to 6,5, and if

you believe in sound invites, than 2S is clear,

but if you count this as 6, than 3S it is.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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2 is enough, too many losers(6)  for 3. Bidding 3 with this hand will result more often in going overboard than in reaching a thin game

Hi,

 

I can live with bidding 2S, but if you are using

LTC, as I do, than 3S is clear, because 3S does

show a 6 looser hand.

 

I think you can downgrade this to 6,5, and if

you believe in sound invites, than 2S is clear,

but if you count this as 6, than 3S it is.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

In my Klinger LTC book this is a 6.5 loser hand not 6/.

Not close.

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2 is enough, too many losers(6)  for 3. Bidding 3 with this hand will result more often in going overboard than in reaching a thin game

Hi,

 

I can live with bidding 2S, but if you are using

LTC, as I do, than 3S is clear, because 3S does

show a 6 looser hand.

 

I think you can downgrade this to 6,5, and if

you believe in sound invites, than 2S is clear,

but if you count this as 6, than 3S it is.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

In my Klinger LTC book this is a 6.5 loser hand not 6/.

Not close.

I wont argue with downgrading this to 6,5, but personnally

I dont really use the adjustment factors, I just look at the hand

and ask myself, if I can I live with the result of the raw count

(= 6 loosers, no discussion about that), and if yes, I make the bid.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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2. In my methods I've shown anunbalanced hand with this sequence, but I'd bid the same with standard methods.

 

The hand just isn't worth 3 - I completely echo Justin's first post here.

 

I don't understand employing a 3 splinter - how would you bid a monster 2-suiter then?

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I don't understand employing a 3 splinter - how would you bid a monster 2-suiter then?

Hannie plays that 1 can't be strong balanced, that 2N is a forcing raise of spades (no shortness unless superstrong), and so 3 can show an invitational hand with club shortness. Han seems to have copied that.

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I am with the minority: 3.

 

1) It shows that my hand is unbalanced. (My 1 opening can be balanced.)

2) I like my nice diamond suit. (It is fine to add half a loser for the Q, if you then subtract half a loser for the J9. KQJ9x is substantially better than KQxxx. The difference is a lot more than 1 HCP.)

3) I do have good spade spots.

 

Rik

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2, if partner can't bid again, the game is far away.

 

Terry

I agree with your bid but if you think you are not going to ever miss game if partner passes that is really wrong. Do you think partner will game try with AKxxx xx xxx xxx?

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