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Recently, a local expert loaned me 'Hand Evaluation in Bridge' by Brian Senior. I found the implication that I need to work on this area of my game intriguing, and there's nothing much in my first reading of the book that strikes me as anything I didn't already know. Perhaps I should read it again...

 

Here are a couple of recent hands that might indicate that I do need to do more work on this. What would you do with these, and why?

 

 

[hv=d=n&v=n&s=st9h75daq76cakqj7]133|100|Scoring: XIMP

P-1-P-1;

1-Dbl-2-3;

3-???[/hv]

OK, the Double might not be the best choice, but I suppose this is a matter of agreements. I play Support Doubles here with my F2F partner, but my BBO profile specifies Negative Free Bids and Action Doubles. Perhaps 2 would be better?

 

 

[hv=d=n&v=n&s=st9h75daq76cakqj7]133|100|Scoring: XIMP

P-1-P-1;

1-Dbl-2-3;

3-???[/hv]

What's your call?

 

 

Regards,

 

Justin

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1) I think partner's most likely distribution is 2434, but this isn't really for sure; if he's not 2434, it's strictly better than 2434. Anyway, I'm a 4C bidder. If partner has the goods, he can bid 5. Move a heart to a spade and I'm bidding 5C.

 

2) I'll bid 3H (stop ask) (edit: or 3D stop showing) and if partner bids 4C, I'll raise to 5C. Initially, I was going to cue for 6C if it was indicated that partner had little heart waste, but in retrospect, I think this is too aggressive.

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1) Don't know what system you play, but if you had a strong NT available it would have simplified the auction. Also don't know what an Action Double is, but if your 1NT opening is weak and you don't play support doubles, perhaps double shows a strong NT.

 

Anyway, I pass now. 3 is not forcing, 2 small is the worst holding in Spades, and to make 5 after losing the first 2 spade tricks partner needs exactly the right cards. Double is very dangerous - sounds like penalty. Bidding 4 is possible - on a good day we have 10 tricks in clubs while they have 9 tricks in spades - but I would rather not bid to the 4 level on a partscore hand.

 

2) 3. Just bidding out my shape, showing a good hand.

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I think I need to work on my bidding judgement, so in that spirit I will have a go here.

 

1. Partner has made a free bid supporting my clubs, and with AK and just the J, 5 would be a good bet. So I will invite with 4.

 

2. The prospects of a club game look very high or even a club slam. So bid 3 to show shape and listen to partner's next move. 3 next from partner, I believe, would be showing King doubleton. Now if partner can show me the A, 6 looks a good bet.

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1) Don't know what system you play, but if you had a strong NT available it would have simplified the auction.  Also don't know what an Action Double is, but if your 1NT opening is weak and you don't play support doubles, perhaps double shows a strong NT.

 

Standard American. So yes, opening 1NT is an option but with 2 suits wide open it's not my cup of tea. Indeed, on this particular hand we would likely reach 3NT and be helpless when opps run the first 5 tricks in s.

 

Playing NFB, the only strong options here now are cues or double.

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1) Don't know what system you play, but if you had a strong NT available it would have simplified the auction.  Also don't know what an Action Double is, but if your 1NT opening is weak and you don't play support doubles, perhaps double shows a strong NT.

 

Standard American. So yes, opening 1NT is an option but with 2 suits wide open it's not my cup of tea. Indeed, on this particular hand we would likely reach 3NT and be helpless when opps run the first 5 tricks in s.

 

Playing NFB, the only strong options here now are cues or double.

NFB is a convention I rank with F******y and G****r, and advise you to expunge it from your profile ASAP. :)

 

In any case, NFB doesn't apply to opener. If you were to rebid 2 (I don't say I recommend 2), it is a natural reverse, not a NFB. Negative free bid refers to responder's bid in an action such as:

1-(1)-2

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Playing NFB, the only strong options here now are cues or double.

1) Not sure I follow - how is 2 not strong? It is a natural reverse showing 5-4 16+hp. Double in this position, with this hand is not my choice.

NFB is for responder only - not opener.

 

I would double after 3.

 

 

2) I'd probably bid 3 to show stopper expecting 3NT or 5. I think I would pass 4.

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Hi,

 

#1 I prefer 2D instead of X

5C, throw a dice to decide between 4C

and 5C, but I hate to defend with 4 in

a minor against 3 of their mayor, so

I may go for the full price

#2 4C, tough, 5C is a long way, but you have

a nice hand

You have 6 loosers and partner promised

something around 8 loosers, maybe he has

something to spare, ... and of course 4C

transfers the blame, and may be worth one

or two beers.

I dont like 3D because this is looking for

3NT, and this is certainly not a contract

I want to play, afterall 3C may also be based

on shape.

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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1. Probably pass. I think we both have the death holding in spades and I really don't have a lot extra for my x.

 

2. Wow. This is really a great hand. For me, 3 isn't patterning, it shows a stopper, and could be a 5134, but could also be 5224 or even 5233. Opposite a few magical hands, 6 is cold. There are some hands where 3N doesn't have a chance, but 5 is cold.

 

If you bid 3, with the intent of passing 3N, I think you are misevaluating. I'm going to make the 'slight' overbid of 4.

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1. 4. Not defending here.

 

2. I have a decent hand here. 3 and 4 are both nice here, but I am going for a little aggression; 4 splinter, since I own diamond control here, and I want to get us to the best game, which from experience is often the minor on these constructions.

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I am apparantly viewing this matter entirely differently than the majority so far.

 

1) Pass. No reason to bid on.

 

2) Pass. No game is odds-on vs my 3C-raises, but may make. By bidding on we will reach too many non-making ones.

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