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A jumpshift is gameforcing. So you need a hand good enough to force to game opposite a hand that responds at the 1-level. It shows at least 5-4 in the two suits.

 

You should try not to think in terms of HCP. For example, AQJxxxx AJ10xxx is definitely good enough to force to game while it has only 12 HCP.

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I assume you mean auctions like

 

1-1

3

 

or 1-1

3

 

These should be unbalanced hands with at least 9 cards in the two suits. It is a bid which is 100% GF.

 

Because of that, it's not only a question of "points", but also of honors, etc (to put it bluntly: losing trick count).

 

for the first one, both these hands would fit:

 

AKx x AKQxx QJxx

void x AKQJxx AT9xxx

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Well, of course it depends on the system you are using, but in most standard natural systems, it is GF.

 

However, if 1 is limited (like in strong club systems), the jump promise 5-5, and may easily be passed or corrected by responder if no fit is found.

 

1 - 1

3 - pass/3/3 all no-game-force.

opener has 5+5 9-15hp.

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Opener's jump shift, 2nd suit lower than 1st, is anything gameforcing (19+ hcp where the fit with reponder doesn't help, 19+TP with fit)

 

BUT since a reverse shows any 16+ you don't need to jump reverse to show 19+, waste of a bid. A jump in a suit that would be a reverse at the lower level is a splinter, e.g. 1-1-3 shows game forcing hand, spade support and shortage in hearts. But, 1-1-2 is just a normal reverse, 16+ two suited.

 

Reverses: A normal change of suit where the second suit is lower than the first e.g. 1-1-2 is 11-18 pts. Responder can say 2N for 10-12 bal, repeat his suit or jump repeat it, or make a simple preference or jump preference for opener's suit. (or pass the 2nd suit if he prefers that and there can't be a game opposite even 18pts)

 

If one of your suits is longer you must bid that first. (Not a good idea to manufacture reverses unless you like angry partners and ending in 4-3 or 5-2 fits)If they are equal length 5-5, one is M one is m, you open M first. If both M or both m you can choose to reverse or not. If they are 6-6, one M one m, open m first. Repeating any of your suits shows more cards than 5-4: repeating lower suit means they are of unequal length, repeating higher suit means they are of equal length (if m followed by M, then rebid of M shows 6-6 cause with 5-5 you would have opened M first) <--this paragraph is likely to be wrong pls let me know

 

Splinters: If you want to splinter in a suit lower than your first, you have to do it a level higher otherwise it is the gameforcing 2 suited hand. To save space, if you are two suited and were planning to reverse, you can still reverse then show support for responder, implying shortage in the other suit e.g. 1-1-2-2NT-3. If you have 9 cards in diamonds and hearts, and three or four spades, you can't have more than 1 card in clubs. whereas if you weren't two suited you'd need to go 1-1-4. If you said 3 that would be 2 suited & GF.

 

If you are forced to change suit at the 3-level anyway, you don't have to have more than a normal reverse since responder has shown 10 pts already (16+10=26): e.g. 1-2-3: maybe you only had 14 pts to begin with but you also have heart fit which has improved your hand enough.

 

I hope this helps... but if anything is wrong let me know so I can change it, probably a lot is wrong :)

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Opener's j/s is forcing to game. Any hand that wants to force to game opposite a min 1/1 response. 19+ is a good guideline. LTC of 5 is another. Rebid 2N with a balanced 18-19 rather than j/s is usually wise. For example, after 1m 1H, with a balanced 18-19 and 4, it is wiser to rebid 2N rather than j/s to 2S.

 

The 2nd suit would not be a reverse if at a lower level.

 

Sometimes, the second suit (minor only) may not be real. Responder should be mildly aware of that. For example: With AKx xx AKQxxx Kx, opener bids 1D and responder bids 1S, many experts might rebid 3C.

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Guest Jlall
Generally 19 is fine, 17 is not fine, and 18 is borderline. That being said there are some 19s I would not jump shift on, and some 17s I would. Always remember to have pretty good suits, and that shortness in partners suit is a negative.
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[hv=s=skxhq10xxxdakj9xca]133|100|1-1

?[/hv]

 

Yesterday, i held above hand. I think it's close to jump shift, but not enough, maybe it's qualified if moving A to A.

Any comments?

Clearly not a jumpshift to me. I'd bid 2D and if partner bids 2H I'd bid 3D.

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[hv=s=skxhq10xxxdakj9xca]133|100|1-1

?[/hv]

 

Yesterday, i held above hand. I think it's close to jump shift, but not enough, maybe it's qualified if moving A to A.

Any comments?

Clearly not a jumpshift to me. I'd bid 2D and if partner bids 2H I'd bid 3D.

Agree with Han.

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KxQTxxxAKJ9xA

 

Yesterday, i held above hand. I think it's close to jump shift, but not enough, maybe it's qualified if moving A to A.

Any comments?

The question you should ask yourself when considering a JS is "How do I feel about being in 3N or 4M opposite a 9 loser 6 count?" (or whatever your definition is of a typical minimum Response.)

 

Bear in mind that it usually takes 7+ controls to make 3N or 4M. Whatever you don't have, you are counting on GOP to have.

 

Here you have a 4 loser (1S + 2H + 1D) hand with 6 controls (2 A's= 4, 2 K's= 2)

A nice hand.

 

Now the problems.

1= You do not have a known fit with CHO. CHO may have as few as 4 S's.

That means we need more power cards to take the same number of tricks.

 

2= Stiff A's are not a good thing. Just trust the more experienced players when they say this.

 

3= A JS chews up a lot of space. ATM, we need AMAP in order to figure out what contract is right.

 

 

Bottom line: It's close, and your instincts are good. OTOH, you don't know where you want the auction to go and the stiff A is a negative given this auction.

 

Bid 2D and see what happens.

 

GOP's next bid may very well cause your hand to "grow up" (say they rebid 2S, 2N, 3m or 3M...).

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Glossary

 

JS= Jump Shift

Controls: A=2, K=1

GOP=Good old Partner. Also known as CHO (Center Hand Opponent)

ATM=At the Moment

OTOH=On the Other Hand

AMAP=A Map. :)

Dude thanks, I seriously couldn't figure out what GOP meant. These acronyms make my head spin.

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Glossary

 

JS= Jump Shift

Controls:  A=2, K=1

GOP=Good old Partner.  Also known as CHO (Center Hand Opponent)

ATM=At the Moment

OTOH=On the Other Hand

AMAP=A Map. :)

My apologies for the jargon. I thought it was "standard" B)

 

correction:

AMAP= "As Much As Possible"

 

Other "jargon" you will see often in Bridge posts:

ATT= "At The Table"

LTC or MLTC= "Losing Trick Count" or "Modern ..."

 

losers= Every card not the A, K, or Q of the top 3 cards in a suit.

Suits with only Qxx as the top 3 cards have 2 3/4 losers unless GOP shows values by bidding or length in that suit.

GOP showing general values improves Qxx to 2 1/2 losers.

GOP actually showing length in the suit improves Qxx to 2 losers (or less if they specifically show values in the suit.)

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Every time I read GOP, I thought he was talking about Republicans.

 

And back to the topic, lol the hand is 5-5, I thought it was 6-5.

1= Sorry about that.

 

2= That's why I hate using "10" instead of "T" when posting hands.

Using "T" reduces the chances of a counting error.

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