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how you bid those hands from here?


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[hv=d=s&v=a&w=sj96hak9765dqcjt7&e=sahq4dakj7652ckq5]266|100|Scoring: IMP[/hv]

 

West North East South

 

 -     -     -     Pass

 1    Pass  2    Pass

 2    Pass  how you bid from here those hands.

 

I was east and I was in doubt what suit slam should I choose and how to get there.

 

 

 

Thanks in advance for your advice

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Assuming the 2/1 is not 100% GF, I think I'll try 3 and hope I can untangle the mess later...

 

3 can be passed in sayc?

Not for me! If 3 can be passed, then I give up and bid 4 or 5 or something like that. I will also not play with someone who thinks 3 here is not forcing ;)

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[hv=d=s&v=a&w=sj96hak9765dqcjt7&e=sahq4dakj7652ckq5]266|100|Scoring: IMP[/hv]

 

West North East South

 

 -     -     -     Pass

 1    Pass  2    Pass

 2    Pass  how you bid from here those hands.

 

I was east and I was in doubt what suit slam should I choose and how to get there.

 

Thanks in advance for your advice

This is an ackward hand of sorts. First, why did West not open 2 (well, I would open 1, but I open extremely light). Second, are you playing 2/1 GF or not?

 

Let's assume you are playing 2/1 GF along with serious 3NT. Odds are you are not, but lets assume that. The bidding could be...

 

1H - 2D

2H - 3H (game force, set trumps)

4D - 4NT

5H - 6NT/6H/6D

 

3H was game force, set trumps

 

4D = denied serious slam interest, denied A or K of spades and A or K of clubs and showed either A, K or Q of diamonds.

 

4NT = RKCB

 

5H = two keycards (must be AK of hearts from bidding) denies heart Queen

 

6NT = may not be the safe contract, if partner has five hearts, we have 7D, 3H, 1S so a spade lead might beat us before we get a lead. But given partners very weak hand, I am willing to bet he has six hearts or heart jack or spade QJ (best he can be to give us trouble is without that holding is Qxx AKxxx Q JTxx and even then on a spade lead we have a chance if the spade king is right.

 

6D and 6H are both playable and after the 4D cue-bid you know it.

 

--------------------------

 

At SAYC this is more problematic. 3H is ofter non-forcing and jump to 4H will not cut it. So you might try a frocing 3C (new minor forcing). PArtner will rebid 3H and you are on your own to figure out how best to proceed. I would probalby cue-bid 3 and partner will bid 4. Now I you know the club ACE is missing and you might as well close your eyes and bid 5NT (pick a slam, partner will pick 6H) or just bid 6H.

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I think Ben's post is all pretty much true, but far too complicated of an approach for B/I.

 

Responder should rebid 3 if he plays 2/1, or 3 if he plays SAYC (since 3 would not be forcing.) In either case opener would then bid 3, and responder is good enough to simply use blackwood and bid 6. No reason to get too fancy.

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At responder's second bid:

 

If you are playing 2/1 GF and 2 promises 6+

Bid 3 planning to bid RKC later or just bid RKC now.

 

If you are playing 2/1 GF and 2 does not promise 6+

Then bid 3

 

If you are not playing 2/1 GF

I'd suggest a 3 bid as 3-red is not forcing. Partner would probably bid 3 over this, and you would bid RKC.

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Hi,

 

1H - 2D

2H - 3C (1)

3H (2) - 4NT(3)

5H (4) - 6H (5)

 

(1) unless 2D was already gameforcing, this creates

a forcing action, looking for some more information,

and even if 2D was game forcing, 3C has the adv.

to hear 3 card diamond support, spade stopper,

4 card support for clubs

(2) 6 card suit

(3) RKCB on power, every suit is controlled

(4) 2 key cards

(5) thats it

 

With kind regards

Marlowe

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Assuming the 2/1 is not 100% GF, I think I'll try 3 and hope I can untangle the mess later...

 

3 can be passed in sayc?

Not for me! If 3 can be passed, then I give up and bid 4 or 5 or something like that. I will also not play with someone who thinks 3 here is not forcing :)

Stranger things have happened ;)

 

Ignore what I said, 3 is of course nmf

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1 - 2 

2 - ?

A lot of forcing bids here; 3 is probably the only non-forcing one...

 

I think I would like to show maximum 2card support in some fashion. 3 would certainly be slamish, but would it not deny spade cue? Also, with a beginner or alike, (ALMOST like myself ;) ), I would not take the chance of partner passing 3, saying it was invite only.... (yes, they do exist!)

 

What's wrong with 3? Some might argue it would be splinter, but when partner is limited, I am in the driver seat..... Cue-bidding and setting trumph would be my choice.

 

Edit:

But as many of you have said - why not keep it simple. Both 3 and 4NT are perfectly valid bids.

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Looking at both hands, and playing imps, you choose 6D. The heart slam goes down on a 4-1 trump split while it takes a Hawaii to beat 6D. If you find out how to discover this during the bidding, bottle it and sell it, you will make a fortune. I'm guessing the question of how to divine this fact is on your mind. It went down in 6H?

 

6N is actually better than 6H. With a 3-2 heart split there are tricks galore. If the hearts are 4-1 you may not need them. Perhaps (you wish) you get a club lead. Even on a spade lead there are some squeeze possibilities. Not good ones, since the count isn't rectified, but there are a couple of different chances. Not that this will be clear either during the bidding since it also depends on discovering the Q of diamonds in your partner's hand.

 

I would be surprised to find many pairs playing something other than 6H, reached on one of the various auctions given above.

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Playing SAYC, I would start with a 3 strong jump shift from responder. You have an essentially self-sufficient diamond suit, which will usually be the right place to play the hand. The 3 bid sets up a game force and very often sets the suit as well.

 

Playing 2/1 GF, I would start with 2 and rebid 3. Opener's 2 rebid could be on any minimum and doesn't promise six hearts all the time. Certainly I wouldn't want to commit to hearts with Qx and such a good diamond suit.

 

There are a lot of ways the auction from here could reach the best slam of 6.

 

Note that in SAYC (or other forms of standard) it's hard to show a strong, game-forcing single-suited hand after a 2/1 bid since rebidding the suit is NF. The fix for this problem is to play strong jump shifts, which are part of most versions of standard (including SAYC).

 

In 2/1 GF (including suit rebid), the problem is with weak or invitational one-suiters. Since neither is strong enough for a 2/1 bid, they both start with 1NT (forcing) and then it becomes hard to distinguish the two (for example 1-1NT-2-3 is ambiguous and could be 6 points or 11). For this reason many 2/1 GF players use direct jump shifts as either weak or invitational.

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Playing SAYC, I would start with a 3 strong jump shift from responder. You have an essentially self-sufficient diamond suit, which will usually be the right place to play the hand. The 3 bid sets up a game force and very often sets the suit as well.

 

Playing 2/1 GF, I would start with 2 and rebid 3. Opener's 2 rebid could be on any minimum and doesn't promise six hearts all the time. Certainly I wouldn't want to commit to hearts with Qx and such a good diamond suit.

 

There are a lot of ways the auction from here could reach the best slam of 6.

 

Note that in SAYC (or other forms of standard) it's hard to show a strong, game-forcing single-suited hand after a 2/1 bid since rebidding the suit is NF. The fix for this problem is to play strong jump shifts, which are part of most versions of standard (including SAYC).

 

In 2/1 GF (including suit rebid), the problem is with weak or invitational one-suiters. Since neither is strong enough for a 2/1 bid, they both start with 1NT (forcing) and then it becomes hard to distinguish the two (for example 1-1NT-2-3 is ambiguous and could be 6 points or 11). For this reason many 2/1 GF players use direct jump shifts as either weak or invitational.

I second all of this. Responder has a strong jump shift in diamonds hand type. If playing SAYC (or Acol!) show this with a 3D strong jump shift in response to 1H. If playing 2/1, show this hand type by responding 2D then bidding 3D.

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I am a fan of the strong jump shift and indeed 1H-3D is a good start at getting to 6D. The problem remains, however. The Q of diamonds and the six of spades could just as well be the Q of spades and the four of diamonds. Now 6H, requiring a 3-2 break, is highly preferable to 6D, requiring a finesse and a 3-2 break. How do you determine this? An agreement I have had in some partnerships is that a strong jump shift, followed immediately by rkc, is rkc for the strong jump shift suit (not what you would call basic SAYC). That would work here but I see it as a bit contrived.

 

In all partnerships that I have, playing whatever I play, I believe I would end in 6H.

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I am a fan of the strong jump shift and indeed 1H-3D is a good start at getting to 6D. The problem remains, however. The Q of diamonds and the six of spades could just as well be the Q of spades and the four of diamonds. Now 6H, requiring a 3-2 break, is highly preferable to 6D, requiring a finesse and a 3-2 break. [oops, added: With this rearrangement of cards, 6H is no piece of cake either. This doesn't change my view that most of us will end in 6H.] How do you determine this? An agreement I have had in some partnerships is that a strong jump shift, followed immediately by rkc, is rkc for the strong jump shift suit (not what you would call basic SAYC). That would work here (1H-3D-3H-4N(rkc for Ds)-5C(one key)-5H(Q ask, not to play)-5N(yes to the Q ask, plus some unshowable (because of level) king)-6D but I see it as a bit contrived. And scary since these agreements may be less solid than I thought. Presumably if partner doesn't have the Q of diamonds I convert to 6H, partner presumably passing. Not an auction I want to bet my life on.

 

In all partnerships that I have, playing whatever I play, I believe I would end in 6H. Maybe others can get to 6D, but I'll believe it when I see it. [The American phrase for expressing skepticism is "I'm from Missouri".]

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