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High level 3 way decision


Fluffy

take you choice  

36 members have voted

  1. 1. take you choice

    • 5[SP]
      20
    • pass (I can blame partner later)
      11
    • Double
      5


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Difficult hand. After 4 this is a forcing pass situation. I like my club king, I hate my diamond King. I have a few extra spades, but my hand rates to be an effect three hcp.

 

Here is the problem. If I pass now, and partner doubles, I can not pull to 5 as that would suggest a slam try. I DON;T want to make a slam try. So I have to decide now, will I pass a DBL by partner. If the answer is NO, then I will have to bid 5 now. If the answer is yes, pass now is fine. I think I would pass a double by partner, so I pass now. Note, I disagree with the timid 2 bid with five card support, I would have tried 3 or maybe 4 on the first round.

 

Although, last night I held five card support to the ACE for partner when he opened 1 and never bid, not once. The reason was the opponents had already found their spade fit (RHO overcalled a 1 and we were going to outbid anyway and I thought hiding our degree of fit would cause them more problem than showing it for some reason.

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It looks as if everyone is bidding out of turn, according to the bidding diagram: W bid after N, then S bid after W and so on... but at this stage in the auction, it's too late to have the bidding go counter-clockwise as it usually does, so I may as well keep the insanity going. The main worry is that the K is devalued: if East had overcalled, I'd expect the K to be working, but with West unexpectably bidding first, it isn't worth as much :)

 

Anyway, partner bid 4 so that I would be able to make an informed, if not intelligent, decision. I have unexpected length: my holding is at least as good as QJxx, and I have the Kxx in s. AKxxx Kx x AQxxx is the kind of hand I'd expect over there, and it may be even better: maybe a void. So I have an easy 5, regardless of who bid when.

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I guess we're talking IMP's here.

At MP this is a very hard decision. I'm not sure of what I'd have done at the table. Probably passed.

 

At IMP's it's still a tough decision, but not as tough as in MP, by far.

I'd bid 5. My guess is that we're one down here, and they one down in 5. But you can easily construct layouts where both contracts make. Bidding wins if at least one contract make, and is not a big loser if both fail by one trick. Cheap insurance.

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I'd have bid 3 the first time.

 

I don't think 4 is necessarily a slam try; I just think it shows 5+ clubs.  I'd bid 5 but it's real close.

I don't think 4 is a slam try either.

 

When we are in a competitive situation, especially one in which we can anticipate that the opps may be saving over our game, it is very useful to use non-jump 4-level bids as showing shape/location of values... to enable partner to make an informed decision over the anticipated save. The 4 bid is a transfer of captaincy. Contrast this to a 4 bid by opener: now, over 5, responder has NO right to bid 5 and should double only with great defence: 4 assumes captaincy.

 

This approach is based on the idea that making the correct 5-level decision over the expected save is a more frequent issue than is trying for slam: itself an unlikely scenario after a single raise.

 

 

BTW, I think that your thought about an initial 3 would be unpopular amongst most players. That bid is usually played as preemptive, and your hand is far too strong for that, especially if the K is behind the 2 bidder (which it isn't, in the bidding diagram, but which it probably is at the table)

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BTW, I think that your thought about an initial 3 would be unpopular amongst most players. That bid is usually played as preemptive, and your hand is far too strong for that, especially if the K is behind the 2 bidder (which it isn't, in the bidding diagram, but which it probably is at the table)

 

Yeah I forget that other people will JR on complete trash vul against not (I dont) Maybe this is too strong anyway. My 2nd choice is 4 not 2.

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I'm also an intial 3S bidder; I hate those 'preemptive' 3M-raises.

 

Now I bid 5S and I don't think it's that close.

 

Sure the DK is a minus but partner did bid 4C red vs white and I have 5 trumps and the K of C.

If this doesn't work out, we'll all have a look at partner's hand.

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Pass isn't forcing in this auction. The point of the 4 bid is to see if we should bid 5 over 5

I disagree. We are Vul and they are not. 4 forces to game (well duh), so under this conditions, a pass would be forcing. If partner had jsut bid 4 instead of 4, THAT would not establish a forcing pass. But here, partner wanted to include you in the decision to defend or bid five.

 

The question is, do you have a choice between defend or bid on. What you can not do is pass now and bid 5 after partner doubles. You must decide now, bid 5, or pass and then pass partners double or his decision to bid 5.

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I would have bid 4 over 2 and been done with it.

 

If partner now doubles 5 knowing that I probably hold 5 spades, I'll respect his decision.

 

Having been forced to bid 2 the first time, I will bid 5 now, since my spade length is unexpected by partner.

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Thanks for the replies, at first I though partner had missevaluated his hand, but reading your replies it seems it is mainly bad luck for the duplicated values in , and .

 

5 had no chance.

 

 

Partner held:

 

KQJxx

A9x

x

AQJx

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I choose to double because i have a bad hand for declaring and a good hand for defending.

- 5 seems wrong without any aces, or voids/singletons

- Pass seems wrong because I have defensive values that 2 did not show.

- 5 is a possible alternative, although only in my most regular partnerships.

 

Tru

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Thanks for the replies, at first I though partner had missevaluated his hand, but reading your replies it seems it is mainly bad luck for the duplicated values in , and .

 

5 had no chance.

 

 

Partner held:

 

KQJxx

A9x

x

AQJx

partner doesnt have his 4 bid IMO

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4C was a really bad bid vs a single raise with that hand.

This all seems like good old fashioned resulting to me. What if one of his hearts was a club? Then bidding on by us would still have been wrong most of the time (if clubs are 3-2, or the diamond king is a defensive trick, or if we get 2 heart tricks on defense). If we had a really good 5 bid (say king of diamonds in hearts) then 5 would be making easily opposite partner's hand. I think both the 4 and the 5 bid were somewhat reasonable (though I wouldn't have chosen either) and just didn't work, but if anything I blame our hand more since we made the final decisive decision which could have been right but we knew could also have been wrong.

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4C was a really bad bid vs a single raise with that hand.

This all seems like good old fashioned resulting to me.

Josh, you don't know Ulf - he's no results merchant. :angry:

 

He might have explained better why he thinks 4 was a really bad bid, though.

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