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fun hand in BBO


jjsb

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all vulnerable

 

IMP what is ur bid after the beginning of sequence :

 

1C  p     p     ?

 

with

 

KJ109

-----

AK1083

K862

 

regards

syl

 

 

whats going on here, there r 13 missing hearts and my pard did not overcall 1h. R the opponents playing weak jump shifts. if so it would seem that pard has 5/6 bad hearts since no overcall.

Hum. i cant say double, not good enough to bid over some number of hearts by pard.(And its my experience that when doubling with shortness in a major pard always bids the suit and never believes i have fewer thatn 3) B) Dont like 1nt, usually not a good idea with a void, even though it does show my hcp. Pass is a consideration but i could be missing a game. So i guess ill bid

 

1D

 

and see what happens.

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all vulnerable

 

IMP what is ur bid after the beginning of sequence :

 

1C  p     p     ?

 

with

 

KJ109

-----

AK1083

K862

 

regards

syl

 

 

Three different bids... Short Answers

     At Matchpoints --> Pass!!!

     At IMPs --> 1S vul, 3D not vul

 

Explaination (Long Answer....)

Easy is right, the first thing to worry about is the heart suit.  He didn't mention however your club legnth. This is also a concern. If RHO has club support, then partner is short and clubs and didn't make a shapely takeout double or an overcall so clearly the hand belongs to them and you are outgunned. And if RHO is short in Clubs? Then they have a heart contract that must play better than clubs (with Club ruffs in RHO and your king finesseable). So while I think game for them in hearts is unlikely, at matchpoints I am willing to bet that the hand will play much better for them in hearts (or notrump) than in clubs. Thus at matchpoints, I would pass, playing the odds that I will get a better score more frequently defending 1C than bidding on  ....>> either partner has club legnth and they are wrong contracted, or partner is short in clubs and then the hand belongs to them.

 

At IMPs, however, I worry that pass is losing proposition (although right on frequency, wrong on potential total points won or lost). It is possible partner fits diamonds or spades and we might have game. For instance, as little as  

S:Qx  HJxxxxx D-Qxxx Cx    

or

S:Qxxxx Hxxxx DQx Cxx

which gives us a good shot at 5D or 4S. So when pass is wrong, it can be very, very wrong, especially vulnerable.  In addition, my hand is very offensive in nature (I particularly like the spot cards in Diamonds and spades), so I am not passing at imps.

 

With a heart void, like EASY, I will not reopen with a double or a clever 1NT (too strong for balancing 1NT anyway). So the bids that occur to me are 1D, 2D, 3D, 1S, and 2C.

 

Unlike Easy, for me 1D is out of the question. Surely LHO will bid 1H over 1D or double for it takeout with hearts and spade tolerance. That makes it too easily find their best fit. Remember this is probably their hand. Also, partner will think I am much weaker for a 1D bid than this.

 

I like 2C here, but will not bid it at the table this time. If partner bids 2H/3H, then I will correct to 2S/3S as a scramble, allowing partner to pick between spades and diamonds. There is no way partner is going to leap to 4H (or really even 3H) over 2C given that he didn't bid 1H over 1C, so it is fairly save bid. Sadly, I am not sure partner will be on the same wavelength (no double, so no support for all three unbid suit, run cheaply from Hearts, so other two suits but he should be), but instead think I have a very good hand. And even if he would be on same wavelegth, a LHO with 5H+6C hand will bid 2H over my 2 clubs and mess the entire plan up when RHO raises.

 

So, my choices are between 2D/3D and 1S. 3D may cause us to miss the big plus on game hands especially in spades and that I have only 5 diamonds. Over 3D if LHO doubles for takeout, and RHO has 4/5 Diamonds, I may get hurt. So a combination greed (missed vul game) and fear (misfit hand with TO X converted to penalty) prevents me from bidding 3D vul.  Not vul, I am less worried about missing game. I really don't think we have one anyway (given partners inaction... it takes a perfect fit). So, not vul at imps I bid 3D (I think it is their hand after all, so I want to apply pressure).  What if a LHO who is 5-6 bids 3H over 3D? Surely RHO will carry to game, and I now hope the bad Heart split will defeat it (they get overboard.. that is, I am not pushing them into a lucky game).

 

This leaves 1S and 2D when vul at imps. Both bids have pluses and minuses. Both 1S and 2D bypasses 1H making it harder for LHO to bid hearts. The Spade bid has a big plus in that a spade lead from your partner is probably better for the defense the majority of the time when you have no Spade fit than a Diamond lead would be. So bidding 1 Spades and they buy the hand probably is a better start for your side than a diamond. On the downside, a 1S distorts my shape and value --> partner will expect more spades and less points. On the otherhand 2D is right on points (an opening hand) and suit length. If you bid 2D, you have an easy spade rebid if partner keeps the auction open. But, a hidden advantage of 1S is that if LHO is short in diamonds with 3/4 Spades and some hearts, he will not be able to make a TO double, again making it harder for them to find their heart fit. Over 2D, if LHO is short in diamonds and has 4H and 3S, he will make a TO double.  

 

In final analysis I still think the hand belongs to the opponents, so I choose a slightly bent 1S because a) it will help us find our most likely game (4S) if it exist, and B) if we defend (partner lacks spade support), a spade lead from partner is likely to be much better for us than a Diamond lead.  

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thanks for the answer and here i give u the 4 hands

 

 

                      Q732

                       AKD

                       QJ4

                       975

KJ109                          A8

-----                             J985

AK1083                        92

K862                            AQJ53

                     654

                     1076432

                     765

                     4

 

so , can u see now what was the result and why  i use that name for the topics??? B) . well ... the person who got that hand decided to pass... and the declarer claim ....... 0 tricks :) . now if someone is ready to give me an auction to reach a cold grand slam in C when opps open with that suit well ,just let me know eheh. in that case when this deal was played in BBO 700 was  -5 IMP . seriously i think that passing inIMP is not the best auction ... i would be terrified to miss a game there. now the auction itself can be disagree by those who will see the 4 hands . personally i do'nt enter into the auction with East's hand , even if i play WJ i would pass South's hand . And the pass by west is far from ridiculous (was made by a good player) so the fact is finally a strange result (to say the least i'll not see that again) for an auction that finally looks just fine.. bridge is just fun sometimes...

 

regards

syl (jjsb)

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now if someone is ready to give me an auction to reach a cold grand slam in C when opps open with that suit well ,just let me know eheh.  

 

Hi. Well I think it is possible to get into Clubs, and maybe to get to 6, but I would have to admire anyone who can get to 7C.  Let's assume you picked one of my two IMP responses... 1S or 3D (Easy's 1D works as well). Your LHO will pass and partner will show values with a cue-bid or notrump jump. Remember my remark about you don't expect partner to jump in Hearts if you bid 2C? You likewise wouldn't expect him (or her) to show lots of values opposite your 1S or 3D bid. When your partner does, show values, the cat is out of the bag.... The only "GOOD" hand partner can possible hold on this auction is one with long clubs, and no good four card suit that was biddable at the one level (over 1C).

 

For instance with S-xx H-AJ98 D-92 C-AQJxx (moving the Spade Ace to Hearts) partner would likely overcall 1H. So once partner shows stregth, you know he has a club stack, and not too much wasted values in hearts. An you have four good clubs yourself. Your hand was already offensive in nature, and opposite a good club fit (probably 5-4 or better),  your hand is very good indeed.

 

Likely auction...

LHO  Pard  RHO  You

1C    Pass  Pass  1S

Pass  2C    Pass  3D      *3D to force

Pass  3NT  Pass  4C      *4C = natural not gerber      

Pass  5C    Pass  ?      

 

After 2C cue-bid then drive to game, you might bid 6C here.  Partner never showed interest in either of your suits, but also never introduced Hearts. You must fit pretty darn well.

 

LHO  Pard RHO  You

1C    Pass   Pass  3D

Pass  3NT   Pass  6C

Pass

 

(even easier this time, what can partner have? Spade A or lesss likely Spade-Q, really good clubs, and great hand) . You can bid his clubs for him.  :B)   If partner turns up with some kind of good diamond fit and club shortness (but Ace), and scattered values he will correct back to 6D. Think somethink like S-Qxx H-QTxx D-QJxx C-Ax

 

Interesting hand.. thanks.

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well i bid 1d, reached 5c and lost imps to the good player :)My auction would probably have gone

1c p p 1d

p   2nt p 3c(natural)

p  3h p  3s (natural but could be 3)

p  4c  p  4d

p  5C

Inquiry made a few comments that made me ask myself ......is that true. 1).He mentioned that 1 of the available bids over 1c p p ? was 2c. That bid never crossed my mind because i play that bid as MICHAELS. Am i alone in using that convention here??

 

2. He indicated that if pard had xx  aj9x  xx  aqjxx pard would probably overcall 1h. I personally wouldnt because i dont think the suit is good enough but that begs the question " What is the worst 4card holding you would have and overcall in that suit"?

 

3. He also indicated that it was very likely that it was the opponents hand since partner didnt make a "shapely" double. With 14hcp i think that is a little negative but ... that's not the question. Over 1 of a suit what is the worst hand with which you would make a takeout double (assuming pard is not a passed hand)?vs a major opening and then vs a minor opening?

 

4. He commented that the hand had was too good(i presume  too many hcp) to bid 1nt, What does 1nt in the balance seat show? i play 12-14 over a minor and 12 - 16/17- over a major.

 

Ok let's see if we can get some input here B)

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In answer to the above questions

 

(1C) P (P) 2C natural or Michaels

Depends on 1C bid - if 3 or fewer is possible, natural, else Michaels

 

Quality of suit for 1 level overcall - again depends on my holding in opened suit, but as a general principle, nv KJxx, vul KQTx. 4 cards are fine if holding length and sharp cards in opened suit.

 

T/o doubles - you can't be definitive here. It depends against whom I am playing and with whom I am playing.

In general against say (1D) KJxx Kxx xx Axxx is fine. Over 1S I would want better shape or somewhat greater strength eg xx KTx Axxx AQxx as a min.

 

Balancing NT - about 11-15 for 1NT, X and then NT 16-17, 2NT 18-19

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Inquiry made a few comments that made me ask myself ......is that true. 1).He mentioned that 1 of the available bids over 1c p p ? was 2c. That bid never crossed my mind because i play that bid as MICHAELS. Am i alone in using that convention here??

 

You are not wrong about Michaels. Many,if not most of the players who use cue-bid as michaels in the direct seat, use it as michaels in the balance seat as well. This is how Bridge World Standard plays it as well. My personal belief is that in the position if you have the two highest ranking suits, you can simply bid them naturally. One opponent is terrible limited, so it is unlikely they will cause you too much trouble. The worse they can do is jump is to rebid their suit. (say 1C-P-P-1S-3C....). Now you can double, and 1) your partner knows you have long spades, and 2) the double is still takeout. If partner bids 3D (and you have hearts), you can scamble to 3Hs.

 

However, if you want to use the cue-bid as a two suiter in balance seat, I think it should be any two suiter, not specifically the higer two. This is why I suggested the double and then pull to spades if partner bids hearts. However, I have been playing lately that the cue-bid is big hand that you can't risk the takeout double (perhaps void in their suit) or a limited jump in a new suit (too good). Almost old fashion Goren stuff....  ::)

 

2. He indicated that if pard had xx  aj9x  xx  aqjxx pard would probably overcall 1h. I personally wouldnt because i dont think the suit is good enough but that begs the question " What is the worst 4card holding you would have and overcall in that suit"?

 

The worst 4 card suit I will overcall in depends upon the other stregth of the hand, the vulnerabilty, and how much "trouble" I think it might cause the opponents. If they open 1C, I have been known to overcall 1S with S-KQT9 H-x D-xxx C-xxxxx (ok, I just lost about 200 potential partners) but if they open 1H I simply pass. The theory on such overcalls (in quick-out quick and what suits you "exclude" with your overcall) is explained in full detail in Robson and Segal's "Partnership bidding at Bridge, the contested auction."  I follow most of their principles (some are too wacky, some don't work with Multi-2D, etC). Generally when I overcall a four card suit, it is fairly solid (three honors or two with T's or 9's) and I would like partner to lead it, I also tend to have legnth in the opponents suit. On this pathetic little example, if they open 1H, I pass because they will proably play in hearts and I will be on lead (as well as no suits excluded). I generally don't overcall four card suits headed by Q or worse, and KQxx, AKxx, AQxx, AJxx are not good enough. Throw in a Ten or with a good hand a 9 (which is why I put the 9 specifically in my example, instead of AJxx) and I do overcall. So in fact, for me, KQ9x, AJ9x and in a pinch KJ9x are minimums for me.

 

3. He also indicated that it was very likely that it was the opponents hand since partner didnt make a "shapely" double. With 14hcp i think that is a little negative but ... that's not the question. Over 1 of a suit what is the worst hand with which you would make a takeout double (assuming pard is not a passed hand)?vs a major opening and then vs a minor opening?

 

I said if partner didn't have clubs, it was probably the opponents hand. Here of course, partner did in fact have clubs. But to the question how bad a hand can one hold for a "light-shapely" takeout double on. I will not make a takeout double on trickless hand (Q high suits), but the more favorable the distribution (4-4-5-0 or 4-4-4-1 ideal), the less I need. When not vul, I would double 1C with any of the following minimums (change the T's and 98's to x's and I will not double with these hands).

 

This use to be my minimum 1C-X when not vul...  S-Axxx H-Axxx D-Qxxx C-X,

 

I have now stretched it a little bit more. I will double 1C with the following hands as well.

S-KT8x J-Q9xx D-KJxx C-x

S-K98x J-AT9x D-JT9xx C-void

S-QJ9x H-KQT D-J98xx C-x

S-xxxxx H-KQTx D-AQx C-x    

 

 

4. He commented that the hand had was too good (i presume too many hcp) to bid 1NT, What does 1NT in the balance seat show? i play 12-14 over a minor and 12 - 16/17- over a major. Ok let's see if we can get some input here B)

 

For a long time I play a reopening 1NT by an unpassed hand as 10-12 (like a mini-1NT opening). I have stretched that range now, and play a "good 9 to a bad 13". This range (9-13) is one point lower than the old BWS range which is 10-14.But even playing 10-14, I think this hand is too excellent of a 14 count with a good 5 card suit, I would treat it as "more" than 14 if I thought it was balanced.

 

I realize my bidding is always slighlty sckewed from normal. But then, that makes the bidding fun. BTW, my jump to 2NT in the balance seat is 18-19 since I am counting on partner to have a little bit.... at least with this 2NT bid I agree with someone... The_hog.

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