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[hv=d=w&v=b&n=skq95h2dqj8cq10742&w=saj7h83dk9752caj6&e=s108643h94d64ck985&s=s2hakqj10765da103c3]399|300|Scoring: IMP[/hv]

 

first of all , i have to say: i was south.

 

bidding:

 

1di-p-1sp-x

xx -2cl-p-2sp

p -2nt-p-4he

p-5cl-p-5he

p-p-p

 

i evaluate my hand to stong for "a double and bid my suit/ so i say to myself ; i will dbl, cue bid and bid my suit later.

 

pard say : i show a monster 2 suiter that way and its why he bids 5 cl.

 

i say 2nt(instead of dbl) follow by some kind of cue will show a powerfull 2 suiter.

 

3 questions: is my evaluation of this hand stating it was to strong for a dbl and bid heart was right or wrong.

 

if it was right how do u bid this hand?

 

and what about my pard opinion concerning a 2 suiter in that sequence.

 

thx for any opinion and forgive my poor english

 

tkass

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It's usually good to bid your suit early in these auctions. Over partner's 2, surely 3 is a forcing call. So I'd go with that -- should show a game forcing hand with hearts. The 2 cue just confuses the issue.
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I would just bid 4 over 1.

 

Red at imps, this is not an underbid.

 

And the likelihood of a slam being makeable and biddable is remote on the auction to date. I would much prefer your hand being 1=8=1=3 rather than 1=8=3=1, with the 1 bid on your left.

 

If you are going to double first (which I would not do), then jump to 4 rather than cue-bid.

 

I do not agree with your partner's comments about showing a big 2-suiter. If you had big 's you would cue and raise... or if your were worth mentioning while you also had , you would cue and then, over 2N, bid 3.... clearly forcing. Your jump to 4 did show a self-sufficient suit, but it also showed a much better hand.

 

However, you should have been lucky, because partner has so much (soft) stuff that it is almost impossible for you to hold the hand you described, (unless opener was psyching first seat vulnerable), so he had no reason to bid.

 

If I bid as you did, I might hold x AKQJxxxx Ax Ax: double, cue and jump = truly huge hand... my example would be a minimum.

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What I would do: Bid 4H at my first opportunity.

 

Reason: It will probably make 4, probably not make 6, amd will probably buy the contract.

 

Downsides: If LHO bids 4S over my 4H I will be uncertain of what to do.

 

However: If I begin with a double and LHO bids 4S, or maybe 2S raised to 4 on my right, I will be even more uncertain of what to do.

 

 

With hands like this the auction often gets quickly out of hand. If I begin with 4H, partner may not know exactly what I have, but he will know that I think playing 4H is a good idea, so this will give him at least a clue as to my holding. There really is no way to tell him that if he holds 2 aces then he should bid 6H if he has the queen of diamonds and pass 4H if he does not. My guess is that 4H down 1 will happen more often than 4H making 6. But 4H making 4 or 5 is far more likely than either of the extremes.

 

As for this massive two suiter bit I don't know. I think if partner doubled, then cue bid spades, then pullled NT to hearts, I would still be holding my cards trying to figure out what on earth was going on. If my spades were short I would consider it possible that partner is telling me he has maybe something like 6 spades and 5 hearts. But I would be very confused. I would pretty much rule out the hand you have on he grounds that you surely would not give me this puzzle with a hand that could be pretty well described by 4H either immediately (my choice) or after the double (assuming 4H is still an available bid then).

 

Ken

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Disagree with 1, double and 2. 3 cards in a suit bid but not supported is a bad thing, slam becomes unlikely. Second chance: To bid 4 after 2.

 

Since a 1-suiter would just bid some amount of hearts in this position it is reasonable to assume you have a 2-suiter.

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It's true that you could show a two-suiter by starting with 2NT (or maybe a cue). However, a double still offers more than one place to play. The difference is that 2NT (or whatever) would show (appr) equal suits, while double and then hearts would show hearts with some support for clubs.

 

Bid 4 over 1, as others have said. If opps compete with 4, a dbl (action double) shows something like this hand.

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Oops. I missed the xx bid on the left. So my somment about possibly 6-5 spades and hearts is obvious nonesense and is now withdrawn.

 

The longer S waits to bid 4H, the more N is entited to believe that S imagines a contract other than 4H might be the right one. There are two obvious alternative contracts S might have in mind: 6H and 5C. It has to be one or the other, however. Apparently S thought his sequence showed S held a hand where N should consider 6H, N htought the sequence showed a hand where N should consider 5C. This brings it a little more into the "reasonable folks can disagree" category. I think the general consensus these days is that trying to get to the right game (5C or 4H) takes precedence over exploring for slam. It is the way I prefer but if undiscussed it is anyone's guess. This all makes it, to my mind, even more essential to just bid 4H. No point in sending a coded message if partner and you are using different codebooks.

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Two possibilities; start with 4H or start with 2H.

 

When you enter an auction opposite a passed hand, you can often expect a random 7 count with trump support according to your hand and the bidding.......

Here (obviously RHO is undervalue but that is irrelevent) your pard rates to have, at most, 7 hcp but he could have a couple of H and a useful card outside.

 

If you had 1D and 3C I would bid 4H. With the actual hand, I would walk it with 2H. You are vulnerable and your bid in this auction shows a good suit in a good (under the circumstances) hand. If pard makes no noise and they bid over 3H, you will avoid the -200 penalty when they only had a partscore. If pard cooperates then you may go plus in 3H or you may be able to get them in S or D.

 

4H commits you to sacking vul when they are the ones that may be sacking against you!

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:) IMO you should simply bid 4 at your first opportunity. The reasoning is as follows:

 

1) For slam to be on, partner needs to cover three of your four losers.

 

2) Covering these losers will take specific cards: the diamond king or king queen and the black suit aces.

 

3) The perfect nine points (KQ and a black suit ace would suffice.

 

4) LHO is advertising diamond length and at least 10 HCP. RHO shows spades and 6+ HCP.

 

5) Added together along with your points, these come to: 14+10+6 = 30

 

6) Partner figures to hold no more than ten HCP.

 

7) Any diamond finesse figures to be offside.

 

8) Thus, the chance that partner holds the magic hand are miniscule.

 

9) If, perchance, parner cannot cover ANY of your losers, you will be down one in 4. However, you have little defence against 4, or five or a minor for that matter. Thus, when 4 is down one, if is likely to be a good save.

 

10) Therefore, bid 4 right now before something bad happens.

 

11) IMO any other bid would have to be justified purely on tactical grounds. If the opponents are weak or unsettled or if they see you as weak, you might get away with walking the dog to try to manouver into 4 doubled.

 

On the actual hand, 4 should buy the contract for +620. An adventurous 4 call would draw a double and go down like the Titantic.

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On the actual hand, 4 should buy the contract for +620. An adventurous 4 call would draw a double and go down like the Titantic.

:rolleyes: Mostly because RHO has stepped out with his ultralite response. If he had the 5-6 hcp to be expected then 4H becomes the gamble that it is.

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I'm not a big fan of preempting with good hands. Bidding 4 with these cards is such a situation. The problem is that I'm likely to be faced with the last guess. If opponents compete to 4, partner will not always know to double because my direct 4 call doesn't promise any defense. After 1-Pass-1-4-4-Pass-Pass, it's a tough guess whether to pass, double, or bid 5. If we had started with 2 then the opponents may not bid 4 quite so quickly to put us to the guess, or partner may find a penalty double of 4 since the two-level overcall should promise a couple tricks of defense (at least, a couple tricks of defense if partner has short hearts).

 

On the actual hand, we will do perfectly well by bidding 4 directly. But we will also obtain a good result by bidding 2 and then 4 later, or by doubling initially and bidding hearts at the second turn. The problem with the bidding given is that the repeated failure to show hearts created a misunderstanding -- partner thought that the 2 cue basically agreed clubs and that 4 was either a cuebid or showing a two-suiter. Any of the suggested courses of action will fix this.

 

Perhaps a good general tip:

 

If you know which suit should be trumps, let partner in on the secret right away!

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