moysian

I played yesterday in a daylong (vs. robots). In 4th seat, I held 7 solid clubs and a side King of diamonds, and reflexively opened 3NT. My bot partner raised to 7NT, and laid down 7 top spades. Why the bot passed at its first opportunity is another mystery, but when I checked my bot convention card, I realized that the 3N opener showed 25-27 HCP. (I think 2 clubs - 2 Diamonds - 3 NT shows the same thing, so why not play Gambling?) Anyhow, the bot cashed the diamond Ace at trick one, and I was momentarily hopeful of going off 1. But, the heart suit was discovered at trick 2. I then embarked on a successful campaign to lose every trick on the hand, for a -3500! Ahhh, the beauty of matchpoints!

It does appear that partner has points and, probably, spades. That's exactly what I fear. Last thing I want is partner to blast me to 3nt on 13/14 or worse, sitting for 2sx. If partner had enough for game, he would have acted over 2s. It's my job to bid his hand for him.

Why this enthusiasm for slam??? Game may even be a stretch against my rags. I bid 3d, hoping pard will bid 3n. If he rebids spades, I retreat to 4c, leaving the decision for game to P. If P rebids 4c, I'll carry on to 5. If he jump rebids 5c, showing a true monster, I'll bid 6. The tough one comes if P tries 3h, asking for help in stopping H. I'll probably try 3n, because now I think we may have 3 quick losers in the red suits. Pard could have something like AKQxx - Kx - Jx - AQxx.

1. This is MP, so I play for the max. Win spade, cash Qc, cash two top trumps ending on board. If trumps are 2-2, I make 7 if clubs are 3-3 if J doub, 6 if they are 4-2, 5 if they split 5-1. If trumps are 3-1, I bang away at clubs. If clubs are 3-3 or J doub, I'll still make 5. If 3rd club is ruffed, I still make 4. If 3rd club is not ruffed, I can still try for 5 by catching RHO with AK d and LHO with 2nd spade. If trumps are 4-0, life is still good if clubs break. 2. If 3d does not promise more than diamonds and a full opener, then I try that. If pard bids 3n, I'll play there. If pard retreats to 3h, I'll pass, fearing 4 quick losers in the minors. If 3d suggests a big hand, then i'll just bail at 4h. 3. Partner may have 5s and a good hand, or partner may have 6s (but too good to WJO). If the former, I dont like our chances in 3s and 3c is apt to be off a trick or two. If the latter, then 3s may be our best spot. I'll double, and hope partner can work out the best action. My second choice is to pass.

if you play lebensohl, double works really well. If pard bids 2n, you can bid 3d, which shows diamnds and extra values. If P has modest values and 5s, he'll not be afraid to try 3s. Similarly, he may raise D, or if he has the d K and a heart stopper(s), he may find 3N. Of course, LHO can help(?) our cause by raising H (realize that OPPs may hold the balance of points, and be on target to score 4h). Partner will show spades if he long in that suit. If he passes a 4h raise, you can try 5d, expecting some help there. Then, there are those situations where partner holds good values, and you belong in slam. Again, I think your hand is such that the partnership can feel its way to the best slam (even if partner starts off bidding clubs).

I think 3n is easy to reach. Over south's 2d, north should bid 2n. South can bid 3n rather than 3d (which would imply a weaker hand). Even if south rebids 3d, North can venture 3n (or bid 4d). Alternatively, south could double 2c (TO), and north bids 2N. South then carries on to 3n. Or, north can double 2c immediately. South bids 3d (showing extras, almost), and north bids 3n. Losing a game swing because we got to 5d and failed (or stopped at 4d) is far less embarrassing than playing at 2d, having not even recognized that game was possible.

Dealer: East Vul: Both Scoring: MP ♠ A9874 ♥ Q9 ♦ AQJ6 ♣ QJ Offensively, my 16-count plays like an 11-count. Like you, I play a non-jump Q as not promising a big spade fit - just values. On that basis alone, I favor seeking a penalty over trying to score game in spades. On the other hand, it helps to know the opposition. Opener has bid very provacitively in the face of unfavorable vulnerability and opposition strength. If you trust your opponent's ability to make sound decisions (or distrust your partner), I'd opt for 3d, and probably would pass a 3s bid by P (spades rate to break poorly). On the flip side, if LHO is a stranger in a pick-up game and you absolutely trust partner's judgment, then double. Assume partner will be able to work things out. If he pulls to 3s, I'm still tempted to pass.

For starters: 1. The hand is way too strong for 2h, and a bit too strong for 3h (inviting). Replace the J10 H with xx and I ivnite with 3h. 2. I don't need trump support to play in a H contract 3. Partner does not have 4s, PERIOD! I bid 2s (force), and await pard's next bid. He'll raise hearts with three; otherwise if pard's values are in spades, he may raise, and I bid 4h. (Hopefully partner will not force me to play a Moysian.) Pard's outside values may be in clubs, not spades. In that case he's apt to bid 2n with a bad minimum (or 3d). I then bid 3h, which should end the auction if partner abhors hearts, or 4h otherwise. With a better hand (and a misfit), partner will bid 3N. I feel more comfortable playing 4h than hoping to to set up hearts in 3n with a doubtful entry in spades. At least we should have the values to give game a shot.

I bid 2h. I REALLY want partner to bid NT, which he may not do with Qx or Qxx in H after I rebid clubs. Also, 2h also leaves room for P to bid 2s (showing 6), or 3c (maybe P has bigger things in mind). 3c by me eliminates these options. Lastly: Another rebid in clubs does not show any better club holding. It just means you have nothing else you could bid (something I would do if I held 3h and 2d). 2s misleads partner, who fully believes I hold 3 of them 3n is just plain silly - It presumes that you have no faith in partner's ability to help in reaching the best contract (which may be 3n).

4h is a sincere underbid; you have an ace more than necessary, plus a 5th heart. cueing 4s probably induces P to bid a minor, and you're stuck again. Maybe a jump to 5h is the best you can do. At least you are inviting 6 if P has extras. Also, I don't give much stock to theory that the 3s bid assures that P has a doubleton spade. When I raise to 3s in that situation, it's because I want the opponents to "find" 4h. This can occur for two reasons: - I have "stuff" that makes 4h apt to fail (not the case here), or - I am convinced that they can make 6h, and want to give them to languish in 4. On the flip side, if I don't want to defend 4h, I'll raise to 4s - trying to induce them into 5h (best I can do for the defense). BTW, what if RHO's bid was 4s? Do you readers bid 4N? or 5h?

1. 2d - LHO's action will clarify things. If he passes and pard bids 2h, I can bid 2s asking for NT help in spades. If partner lacks help, he'll probably prefer diamonds or try clubs! If he rebids 3h, I'll give up, and hope for the best. If LHO raises spades and it passes back to me, I'll try 3c. 2. I'm torn between x and 4c, but finally agree on x. x works when partner has spades, and it allows him to try 3n if he has hearts. Even if partner bids 4d (denying spades), you can probably improve things by bidding 5c. Then there are those hands where partner has some values (without spades), and opts to sit for the double, enabling your side to collect a small penalty. Finally, it is possible that LHO will offer up a H raise. Now hope that partner doesnt try 5d..... 3. 2h If I am to persuade partner to accept H holding only 2 or 3 pieces, I need to bid them directly. If I had both red suits, I'd gladly double. It's nice that I hold 2s, since it gives P a safe retreat. 4. PASS Why jump into the auction when LHO's (and possibly RHO's) next bid is apt to clarify all? If LHO's next bid is 1N (p-p, or 2c-p-p), you can check in with a double - asking for partner's red suit. If LHO reverses into a red suit or bids 2n, you'll be glad you stayed out. (Don't forget to double for a spade lead if LHO declares 3n.) 5. 6s Opponents bid this hand to make (vul vs. not), and if one holds a spade void, they're apt to try 7c. Hopefully, partner will sniff this out and find the heart lead (a lightner double may help steer P from spades, but he will still be guessing which red suit to lead).

I think you could chosen better examples for your point. In the hands presented, it is unlikely that the 4th trump will produce an extra trick. Had the spade been singleton you could make a better argument that hands 1 and 3 are a trick better than hands 2 and 4. You do pay a price for using Bergen for the 4-card raise over the T.O. double, and that is the opprtunity to make the WJS over the double - when you have the hand for it. That, combined with the bidding space saved by 2n, favors bidding 2n in both cases. 2n and 3d are equally effective in forcing opps to come in at 3s. In the cases of the 1s overcaller, the opportunity to force "blind" action at the 3-level is gone. LHO knows if he has a 3s bid, or not. Better to apply normal methods to show your overall strength. 2n is still too useful as invitational to NT to take away; double or 2s shows overall strength (2d = NFB for me). 3d can be Bergen (treat 3 trumps & stiff in overcalled suit as 4-bagger seems ok to me).

I like bidding 4s, which should show partner all he knows to search for slam. The K should be welcome news whether or not he holds the Ace. Results from blackwood (or not) should reveal the best contract.

Call me stupid, but I see no need to "scramble" with 2n - I have a perfect bid at 3d, and am content to let partner bid his own 3n. If I was 2-3-3-5, I would have tried 3h (partner should know I don't have 4). After the first double, partner must have good stuff, but I don't know if it's based on values, shape, or both. After the 3s bid (and subsequent double), I am more apt to go for the penalty (Partner has values & opps are vul). 3N is clearly wrong, and if partner was truly fired up to play game or slam in the minors - he needed to do something else besides double.

I chose 2h, but can envision passing if late in the match and I need to catch up. 1. LHO could have opened with a monster and/or RHO could have made an unduly conservative pass. I'm on the verge of scoring a big plus, unless I open my mouth. 2. Oppo's at the other table are the excitable type who will shoot for every "red" game they can see - especially if overcaller's partner has 2 or 3 spade stoppers. We score by beating 1s a trick or two, while our partners collect on an unmakeable 3n. 3. Then of course, there is the scenario where RHO is weak, with a heart stack, and is praying for his partner's "takeout" double. Again, our partners will have just gotten rich, all we need do is not give it back.

1. Pard's double, and my hand, suggests 2s is a reasonable spot for them. My hand is a beast to lead from, and even if I dont cost our side a trick with a bad lead, I don't expect to beat them 2. 2. If pard has heart K and another card, I see a lot of paths to 8 tricks in NT - and a lot of ways to fail at 3H. 3. 2n doesnt force partner to pass, although it's hard to envision many other reasonable actions, given the auction to date. Maybe he is 5-5 in hearts and a minor, and will try that minor. If that happens, we're playing 4h.

Originally, I said "pass" - now I want to reconsider. 1. Even if partner plays me for a forcing pass, and "assumes" I have a singleton club, will it really matter? Honestly, can partner hold more than one club on this auction? 2. 5h is only off 2 if partner is bust and holds a stiff club. My only concern is that they bid (and make) 6c. 3. If partner has 2 Aces to go with his stiff club (or 1 Ace and a club void), 5h makes (and 5c may be unbeatable) 4. If partner has an even better hand, 6h may make; yet partner will likely settle for 5cx if you pass. My "revised" vote is 5h.

There is so much that can happen favorably for your side, and you've got the favorable vulnerability to work with. Bid 1s, and assume it will not go P-P-P. (even if it does, you may be getting your best result). Your best spot might be 4s, or it could be 5d (or 6d). 4h may fail miserably, or 5h may be unbeatable. If game makes their way, maybe your winning move is to sacrifice, or maybe it is to avoid the tempting double. Bid 1s, and see how partner (and the opps) carry on. Plan on bidding diamonds, espeially if LHO raises H and partner does not raise spades. If you bid 4s immediately, and a good LHO bids 5h, it will be you (not they) who will be stuck gessing.

1. On thing was not clarified - Is 2s based on good values, or is it NFB? If it shows values, i'm looking at 7s possible. Even if NFB, i'm thinking 6s. So... I bid 4N, RKC, assuming I can inquire about Qs if partner shows 1 or 2 aces. If partner has 2 Aces, or 1 ace and Qs, I'm in 6s. If partner has both Aces & QS, I'm in 7! I see no value in futzing around with cue bids and splinters, since I don't really need to have help in the heart suit (if partner's 2s shows values, he probalbly has hearts covered - especially if we're missing an Ace). KISS works for me!

At first blush, I opened 1s (rule of 20), and can sympathized with with those who chose to pass. After more thought, I choose "pass," because it offers more safety on those hands where partner is inclined to venture higher than 2s (the better his hand, the more you wished you had passed at the outset). Opening 1s works best when you can buy the hand cheaply for 2s, or if partner competes to 3s. (Maybe 2s opener not so bad!). Passing, and backing in later can accomplish the same. Lastly, if the hand belongs to the opponents, your pesky side suit values can wreak more havoc on the opponents if you never bid, than if you opened the hand. On offense, these values are much less useful (unless partner has a good hand, but then you need not worry about passing in the first place.)

Too bad! Your hand is a poster child for the Negative Free Bid (NFB). The greatest value of the NFB is to enable your side to escape a misfit at the two-level (presumably in your suit). All other approaches force the hand to the three level, or higher. The only price to pay is that opener needs to recognize that your negative double can now include single-suited GF hands (your hand, plus an outside Ace). I see three ways to play your hand, in declining order of preference. 1. Bid 2h and rebid 3h, expecting partner to treat it as NF. In doing so, you must not rebid 3h with a 6-bagger and GF strength. 2. Make a negative double, then bid your suit on the three level. (I'd choose this option if your 8-count included a less-solid heart suit). 3. Pass, and hope partner reopens. Passing may even work out if your side is on a true misfit.