Edge_

If you're playing super-accepts then partner has already told you he doesn't have the right sort of hand for 6H - by not super-accepting. Quantitative is probably the only route left you might want to consider. (As PhilKing suggests, this isn't a place I would start slam bidding from - if you had enough to investigate without partner's super-accept, your initial response would be your relavent 'hearts and slam interest' bid and take it from there.)

As an overcall, it makes sense for the meaning of this bid to be influenced by the system that your OPPONENTS are using. (Just as you may wish to adopt a different defensive when playing against precision club players) Against 5-card major system oppenents where 1C and 1D may be 3 cards, or less, or totally artificial, then it is logical for 3C to be a natural suit and pre-emptive (because 2C/2D is usually Michaels). However not every opponent plays a <3 card club system. Against opponents using a natural system like Acol where 1C is openers longest or equal-longest suit, it makes more sense for the 3C bid to Ask partner for a stopper or control for making 3NT; Bidding 3C natural when it's sure to be openers longest suit is asking for trouble! Therefore when most of the your opponents are the short minor/artificial club type you want to play the former meaning by default (-and agree with partner whether you will or won't switch against opponents with other systems!). However, if you usually play against natural systems/Acol opponents, then adopt the latter meaning for the default. So geography probably does make a difference here, and, if you think it can only be played one way, perhaps you need to get out and about more! :)

Don’t feel too bad, every biding system has a few weak spots. make that marginal double with 1 diamond and 4 days out of 5 partner will bid 3D back, and you will find yourself stuck too high with nowhere to go. On this hand you didn’t do too badly really since opps can make 4S But they didn’t bid it! Some hands just don’t work out!

A 2h bid is enough, in order to show my subsequent bid Of 3h was competition and not an invitation. There seems enough of a fit to bid and make 3h but not 4 and enough spades to double opponents competitive 3s for penalties, (on rules of 10&12) and hopefully partner has enough clubs to double opponents 4c as well.

To answer the question, think of the bid more like an overcall that has to stand up to playing based on suit quality rather than points strength. When you don't have suit quality then you could take a lot of penalties. Moreover, partner will likely to lead that suit to you in defence. Next remember the cardinal rule for Acol light openings (which does not have drury); a light opener should pass ANY bid by responder. Just like a take-out double, rebidding promises extra strength which you don't have and you end up too high. (As you can't rebid over partner, you should not have singleton in much the same way you don't take-out double with a short unbid major). Finally responder moderate their own bidding opposite your 3rd/4th seat, and will not change suit lightly in case you pass and leave them in it (since they are a passed hand and all their own bids are passable). However if they bid 1S with 4 spades, then AK Hearts gives a two quick tricks where as KJ may yield none when you dont have enough trumps to establish long hearts. However opening 2H has (a) more pre-emptive effect, (b) tells your partner not to expect any hidden strength, and © you have a 5 or 6 major SQOT=8 so don't bother changing to a shabby suit (and if you respond in 1H-1S-2H =14+ they would inevitably bid you higher). Although you have to make an extra trick of course, but that is the price for disrupting opponents more. But passing and waiting is a greatly under-rated bid too.

I'd add a small qualification to this, which is: except where material information was been revealed that is of advantage to the undo-er's side. Particularly, for example, when the next player has already played and in doing so may have revealed whether finesses or drops will or will not work, or can be inferred to do so.

1 First remember you are a team! If you force H or D as the suit now, consider partner may even correct you back to it later if you unexpectedly change the suit at your last bid. 2 Are you playing imps or match points? preferring the safest slam or a few extra points NT 3 recognise the question is wrong! You would rather know that partner had 3 Aces and a kIng than AKQ of diamonds! 4 work out the numbers; is 1D showing 3 or 4 diamonds, In which case a diamond honour may be dropped, but also increases the probability of lightner double and ruff. So exclusion RKCB in spades is temptingly pre-emptive, over 1D, to find AKQ diamonds but may be obscured by AC, Although I’d prefer discovering slowly, wIth .. 1H, (p) 2NT, - so there can’t be more than 2 aces missing and it’s better than 50% chance of 2 diamond honours ( but how does p hold 2H opposite your 8? !). There’s also a chance for opps to reveal where the points are (someone has 5 spades and someone 5 clubs). so then simply check with Gerber for Aces and kings, and plump for best slam, as missing aces for NT correspondingly increases chances of diamond honours for a suit slam -perhaps the hardest question your team are finding the answer to, is whether to bid over a 6S sacrifice or double it ? -which is probably your partners choice, not yours, as better placed to see penalty tricks to take or whether a first round ruff or missing keycard risk in bidding 7

Context is everything, although sadly you have not given enough context here for a definitive yes or no answer, however....! The only MUST in a director's instructions is for showing good manners! But I'm speculating you say 'My Director' as a euphemism for 'Good player' rather than 'Referee'. In which case they're probably right (since directors usually are!). Although I'd suggest they are simply expressing 'with that particular hand in that context, the best bid was 1S' You should read Larry Cohen's excellent 12-part article about 2/1 https://www.larryco.com/bridge-learning-center/detail/435 -where the first 5 parts actually say when not to bid 2/1! This will give you a full understanding of 2/1 and WHY you should have bid 1S for that situation.